Whip`s Wax Salt Remover

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Older

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Since I live in an area that has the philosophy of "one inch of salt for one inch of snow",I`m probably going to give this stuff a try this year. I`ll use it prior to using the touchless wash.

I`ve seen some videos and thought,"why not?".

Another Black Friday purchase.:)
 
Accumulator said:
Older- Do they use hard-to-remove salt in your area to where you need something special? Is it LSP-friendly?
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I can`t find out what ice-melting compounds they use here,(Chicago-area). Another big secret. It looks like gravel and turns blue/pink when it melts. Kills your lawn in a heartbeat.

Not easy to remove from your car.

That Whip`s stuff is advertised as LSP-friendly.
 
Accumulator said:
Older- Do they use hard-to-remove salt in your area to where you need something special? Is it LSP-friendly?
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Lol @ lsp friendly. No salt is LSP friendly. Altho I may just suggest a LSP friendly salt at the next city meeting just to see the reactions!!



jk. I know what u meant. Eastwood made or used to make a product for salt altho I don’t know if it was LSP friendly. It worked really nice in undercarriage areas. They may still make it.
 
Dr Oldz- Heh heh, I sure do make a big deal out of not having to rewax, huh?!?

Lucky me that the Road Salt they use in my area washes off so easily.
 
What are these things called snow and salt of which you speak?
Signed, Southern California.
Anyway, Happy Thanksgiving to all.
 
The roads are salted pretty heavy here in MN and it doesn`t seem to matter what LSP a person uses there seems to be a grime that doesn`t pressure wash off at a touch-less or wand type car wash. You can get most of it off but there is that film that just doesn`t come off without agitation of some sort. I am in a truck now and don`t care as much about appearance. Even the Camaro the last winter or two I got tired of trying to keep it clean in the winter. At least now it doesn`t bother me as much to use the foaming boar brush on the truck when it needs it.
 
I only use Wipe’s for removing salt buildup from carpet. I don’t see how it would be a benefit on the outside of your car? Especially if you’re washing it afterwards? Salt is one of the easiest soilings to remove.
 
David Fermani said:
.. Salt is one of the easiest soilings to remove.
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Hey, David! Glad to see you posting.

I too find that salt simply dissolves and rinses away, "softening" the water while it`s at it; boy does the *dirt* come off along with it IME!

But apparently there are "modern versions of Road Salt" (phrasing it that way for lack of knowing what I`m talking about) that stick like glue and do *not* come off readily.
 
David Fermani said:
I only use Wipe’s for removing salt buildup from carpet. I don’t see how it would be a benefit on the outside of your car? Especially if you’re washing it afterwards? Salt is one of the easiest soilings to remove.
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Plain road salt is not an issue. It is the pre storm brines they use that actually crystallize to the paint and other surfaces that is the issue. I’m not a scientist so I can’t really go into detail for you unfortunately. But it can be a PITA to remove.
 
Dr Oldz said:
Plain road salt is not an issue. It is the pre storm brines they use that actually crystallize to the paint and other surfaces that is the issue. I’m not a scientist so I can’t really go into detail for you unfortunately. But it can be a PITA to remove.
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Most states and cities in the US and Canada now use the liquid magnesium chloride which many call "brine".
It is much more corrosive than the standard sodium chloride (salt) and bonds to the vehicles, enters the inner panels where you can not see or wash out. Any small hair line crack in the ecoat, allows the mag chloride to "eat" the exposed metal, eating under the ecoat and any hem flange or welded joints will be the first to exhibit serious rust corrosion.
Worse is that the mag chloride residue continues to corrode in the warm summer months and in many areas of Canada and rural US, the solution is applied to gravel roads to control dust.
At Valugard.net are a few science based articles regarding the issue.
 
Thanks for that, Grumpy :)

I was just thinking earlier today how thought processes seem to work much differently now than when we were younger. I remember when the Clean Air Act was new, and so was the Arab Oil Embargo...and "most states and cities" did things to keep traffic moving to reduce air pollution and consumption of expensive gasoline, like synchronizing lights and passing right-on-red laws. Now it seems like there is zero thought given to making cars stop when they don`t have to.

In the same way, it`s not like liquid mag chloride wasn`t a thing 40-50 years ago, and not like there weren`t truck mounted dispensing systems for liquids (although perhaps corrosion resistant plastic tanks, pipes and nozzles weren`t so common)...maybe back then some people said "you can`t put that stuff on the roads, you`ll rust people`s cars to pieces"....so they didn`t. But today, who cares, right?
 
People are starting to take it serious, IE --NADA average age of vehicles on roads are over 11 years, plus the average length of payments is approaching 7 years. Corrosion warranty by manufacturers may vary from 12 months to ?=4 years? The warranties are only to cover "manufacturering defects", not enviormental created corrosion.
Another concern is the buying public believes that "under coating" is protection from corrosion,when in reality, most such products in a couple of years may actually promote serious corrosion due to the chemical make up them. They "dry out" and crack, which then allows the corrosives of salt and mag chloride to get between the cracked under coating and hold them and moisture against the metals. The correct industry term for this is "pocketing". Only a product that meets or exceeds the SAE and ASTM standards for rust inhibitors/preventatives actually protects the hem flanges, seams and "interior cavities of any vehicle. 12 years ago I was the main author of the required use of approved such products for corrosion protection as published by I-CAR.
 
Accumulator said:
Hey, David! Glad to see you posting.

I too find that salt simply dissolves and rinses away, "softening" the water while it`s at it; boy does the *dirt* come off along with it IME!

But apparently there are "modern versions of Road Salt" (phrasing it that way for lack of knowing what I`m talking about) that stick like glue and do *not* come off readily.
Click to expand...

Dr Oldz said:
Plain road salt is not an issue. It is the pre storm brines they use that actually crystallize to the paint and other surfaces that is the issue. I’m not a scientist so I can’t really go into detail for you unfortunately. But it can be a PITA to remove.
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I’ve yet to experience this new “brine” here in Michigan? Or at least notice a problem removing it. Salt residue has always been super easy to clean for me. Just pressure washing it with plain water seems to remove any remnants of it typically. And touchless washes (heat/chemical/dwell) does it even better.

Do you really need to go beyond this for regular maintenance washing.
 
In my experience here,just pressure washing won’t remove it. It looks like it’s gone,then it reappears upon drying.

The touchless removes the salt but it doesn’t remove the road film. I need to go to the hand wash for that. If I plan to get it hand washed,I’ll run it through the touchless first to get the salt off.

I cringe just thinking about them swirling the salt around trying to get it off.

I’ll try the Whip’s and see if I can avoid the hand wash as often as possible.
 
Valugard makes a product to remove the mag chloride and it`s residue. VG-502, ProGard. However, it is not sold in any size less than a 5 gallon container as they market and provide it mainly to the trucking industry, which has a several "billion dollar" issue with the trucks and their trailers. Over the 10 years since I retired from them,they have moved away from marketing to the small users and so only promote and package products for large volume users such as the vehicle manufacturers and the trucking industry.
 
David Fermani said:
I’ve yet to experience this new “brine” here in Michigan? Or at least notice a problem removing it. Salt residue has always been super easy to clean for me. Just pressure washing it with plain water seems to remove any remnants of it typically. And touchless washes (heat/chemical/dwell) does it even better.

Do you really need to go beyond this for regular maintenance washing.
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i get what you are saying, Dave. I think this stuff is designed for more of a touch less type wash to maybe/possibly neutralize the corrosive effects of salt. Again I’m no scientist. For me a contact wash takes care of it but a standard pressure washing won’t. If it can neutralize the corrosive properties of “salt” or “brine” then I can see it being useful on undersides of vehicles where maybe you can’t reach or clean thoroughly.
 
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