Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

Vas62 said:
The ideal scenario would be if everything is washed out with pressure washer without even touching car. Well, maybe some foam before it. Numerous of videos when folks doing it but it`s only on light contamination.

Some day I hope.
Click to expand...

I don`t think anytime soon IMO at least for a daily driver. Traffic film is tenacious and there`s just too many surfaces on a car besides paint that just need some agitation. But yeah that`s the idea, I want as much abrasive material as possible to come off the paint with my initial pressure rinse that I`m really just taking off an oily film during my bucket wash. Case in point would be my rinse bucket is nearly clean at the end of the wash.
 
Vas62 said:
The ideal scenario would be if everything is washed out with pressure washer without even touching car. Well, maybe some foam before it. Numerous of videos when folks doing it but it`s only on light contamination.

Some day I hope.
Click to expand...

The folks on Detailing World are big into snow foams to prewash their cars, where here we talk about it very little. Bilt Hamber is a big name for snow foam, but we don’t get it in the US market.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
The folks on Detailing World are big into snow foams to prewash their cars, where here we talk about it very little. Bilt Hamber is a big name for snow foam, but we don’t get it in the US market.
Click to expand...

I have Bilt Hamber Surfex HD and Auto-Foam. And wow are they effective. If you want to try out something that is very near in the performance. Angelwax Cleanliness and Angelwax Fast Foam. During the summer months I use Auto-Foam and during winter months when the road salt is on the roads I use SurfexHD. The cleaning ability is awesome and the rinse bucket stays very clean after a wash. But the use of the water pressure from the PW to clean with is where the most cleaning is done. With the foam loosen up all kind of dirt help it gets cleaner when you clean with the PW. The technique with PW to clean from bottom and work your way up. You don`t get any dirt streaks from the run off and you easly see where you have cleaned with the PW. It`s a standard method to do and is written on the descriptions on how to use degreasers and prewash that you rinse off before you 2bm wash. The bucket wash you do as normal and start from the top and work your way down.

Great to hear it`s working for you budgetplan :)
 
My Overcoat just arrived.

And it`s V 2.1. Hurray !!!

Now going to grab magnifying glass to read that micro print on the back of the bottle.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1941.jpg
    IMG_1941.jpg
    442.1 KB · Views: 101
I`m still on the fence about when to apply Overcoat.
I was thinking to apply it at the same time when applying base coat .
Now having second thoughts to give Wolfgang some time to cure/settle on the car before doing Overcoat.
Analogy (not exactly precise ) coming from wall painting procedure. When you prime the wall you let it dry before applying paint coat . Something similar I would imagine can be applied in case of car coating .
But benefits of applying the same day would be absence of even a little unnoticeable scratches that may appear after washing before Overcoat .
As I said before I`m not going to have heart attack over it so I may wait for a week after coating.

Dunno. Maybe I`m wrong. Still have a time to think about it .
 
Vas62 said:
I`m still on the fence about when to apply Overcoat.
I was thinking to apply it at the same time when applying base coat .
Now having second thoughts to give Wolfgang some time to cure/settle on the car before doing Overcoat.
Analogy (not exactly precise ) coming from wall painting procedure. When you prime the wall you let it dry before applying paint coat . Something similar I would imagine can be applied in case of car coating .
But benefits of applying the same day would be absence of even a little unnoticeable scratches that may appear after washing before Overcoat .
As I said before I`m not going to have heart attack over it so I may wait for a week after coating.

Dunno. Maybe I`m wrong. Still have a time to think about it .
Click to expand...
When using one of the other Kamikaze coatings (Miyabi and/or ISM) I`d generally wait 4-6 hrs and then apply Overcoat, or the next day. Seem to recall somewhere the phrase "...a few hours after final coat" as to when to apply. Overcoat doesn`t really `react` in any way with the base coating (a` la Gyeon Booster over base coating) so it`s all probably academic. First time I ever used Overcoat was about 4 months after applying WG Uber to our cars...I look back on that day as the `trigger point` for my Kamikaze addiction. :lol:
 
Vas62 said:
I`m still on the fence about when to apply Overcoat.
I was thinking to apply it at the same time when applying base coat .
Now having second thoughts to give Wolfgang some time to cure/settle on the car before doing Overcoat.
Analogy (not exactly precise ) coming from wall painting procedure. When you prime the wall you let it dry before applying paint coat . Something similar I would imagine can be applied in case of car coating .
But benefits of applying the same day would be absence of even a little unnoticeable scratches that may appear after washing before Overcoat .
As I said before I`m not going to have heart attack over it so I may wait for a week after coating.

Dunno. Maybe I`m wrong. Still have a time to think about it .
Click to expand...

Apply Overcoat after the recommended cure time for Wolfgang and before you drive the car. For example, most coatings say to let the car cure for 24 hours before driving. I wouldn’t want to mess up the coating curing process by adding more chemicals that can have unintended chemical reactions. I also doubt having Overcoat on the car is going to help you avoid any wash related scratching/marring. Overcoat doesn’t require machine polishing to remove it.
 
Saber732 said:
Apply Overcoat after the recommended cure time for Wolfgang and before you drive the car. For example, most coatings say to let the car cure for 24 hours before driving. I wouldn’t want to mess up the coating curing process by adding more chemicals that can have unintended chemical reactions. I also doubt having Overcoat on the car is going to help you avoid any wash related scratching/marring. Overcoat doesn’t require machine polishing to remove it.
Click to expand...

The one and only reason I bought overcoat is because of it`s superior self cleaning properties.
As a matter of fact all this coating odyssey is because of reducing maintenance time.

You absolutely right that no coating or any topper will prevent/protect from scratches.
I`m comfortable with this fact and my polisher and pads always ready for action.:D

Oh, and I didn`t go with full Kamikaze stuff because I already have Wolfgang ( and McKees37 ) in possession.
I have another old german car so maybe will use on it, but again I have bottle of WDGS and it should be used somewhere too. Dilemma. LOL
 
What is the general rule as to how long Miyabi and ISM are good for, after first opening? I have bottles half full from almost a year ago that I used on my truck, and have another vehicle that I want to use the products on. Will it still have the same protection properties after setting that long.

Since then has Kamikaze come out with any updated Miyabi or ISM coats, as I remember hearing about some new formulas?

One more question can you use the Overcoat over top of the Stance Rim coating?
 
booyah said:
What is the general rule as to how long Miyabi and ISM are good for, after first opening? I have bottles half full from almost a year ago that I used on my truck, and have another vehicle that I want to use the products on. Will it still have the same protection properties after setting that long.

Since then has Kamikaze come out with any updated Miyabi or ISM coats, as I remember hearing about some new formulas?

One more question can you use the Overcoat over top of the Stance Rim coating?
Click to expand...

Can`t say for sure but I seem to recall that once opened, Miyabi OK for 6-9 months, ISM 6 months. As for protection properties, I dunno. I think I used some opened 9 month old Miyabi once and kinda remember it was a little tackier on application than fresh bottle although I also remember the heat and humidity of that night so maybe is was climate-related.

They have released a V2 of ISM, the Ultimate Finish in UK has the following description although not sure if it made it to good, `ol USA yet:
[h=2]Flexible, Hydrocarbon Ceramic Coating.[/h]Most ceramic coatings contain solvents, immediately obvious by the strong fumes which emanate from the bottle as soon as it is opened.
Kamikaze Collection ISM Coat V2 is different. Free from volatile organic compounds (VOCs), non-solvent based, ISM Coat blends optically clear hydrocarbons with ceramic components to provide a clear, candy-gloss shine to automotive paintwork.
Features & Benefits:

  • Easy to apply & easy to buff off
  • Provides a candy-gloss, reflective shine
  • Lasts for 24 - 36 months
  • Repels water, dirt & grime
  • Can also be used to restore plastic trim
  • Designed to resists water spotting better than traditional ceramic coatings
  • Non-solvent based, non-flammable & VOC-free - easy to transport & environmentally safe
  • For higher gloss & increased hydrophobicity, apply a layer of Kamikaze Collection Over Coat
Directions for use:

  • Wash & dry the vehicle
  • Machine polish to remove any paintwork blemishes prior to sealing
  • Apply a few drops of ISM Coat V2 to a cotton applicator pad
  • Using a horizontal motion, cover the panel with ISM Coat V2 before going over the same area using a vertical motion. This will ensure even & uniform coverage.
  • Allow layer to cure for around 5 minutes (less if the ambient air temperature is warm)
  • Use a soft clean microfibre buff the residue lightly
  • Using another soft clean microfibre, rebuff to produce a high, candy-gloss shine
  • For increased water-beading, gloss & longevity, finish with a layer of Kamikaze Collection Over Coat
Technical Specification:

  • VOC-free
  • Non-solvent based
  • Non-flammable
  • Durability: 24-36 months
  • Water contact angle: 105 degrees
  • pH tolerance: 2-11
  • Thickness layer: 2 microns
  • Hardness: 3-4H (pencil scale)
  • Initial curing time: 5-30 mins depending on ambient air temperature
  • Full curing time: 7 days
Coverage: 30ml = 1-2 car
Click to expand...

As for Stance, I have used Overcoat over it before with no ill effects. I have seen Miyabi used as a base for Stance as well. I recently started using Polish Angel Supersport over Stance, it works well and adds a subtle visual effect that I find pleasing, especially on the clear-coated aluminum portions of a wheel. Adds some slickness and some gloss to black painted/clearcoated sections as well.
 
So yesterday I finally finished my Wolfgang/ Overcoat coating project.
Everything went fairly well comparing to the first time some time ago.
With that "little goes long way" phrase the trick was to figure out how little and how long.
After that it was a breeze.
Didn`t do much of preparation.
My goal wasn`t to make paint perfect. It`s a daily driver in NYC and there is no way to keep it in pristine condition
so I saved myself some frustration down the road finding that my perfect paint has some scratches already.
The plan was to use total swirl remover followed by finishing glaze .
Decided not to use finishing glaze.
Saved it for the spring.

This is after coating with uber coating before Overcoat.

attachment.php


Waited about 20 hours and then applied overcoat.

Will try to upload pics in next post. Cant do it here.

I will try to post more pics later. Don`t know why I`m getting message about upload failed.

I envy those people who have patience for this type of job.
Mine is running out pretty quick.
Next time it will be month long project. LOL Hood and front fenders one week, then maybe roof and doors and so on.
 

Attachments

  • Wolfgang1.jpg
    Wolfgang1.jpg
    531.9 KB · Views: 166
attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php


Ok. So this is after applying overcoat on a dry vehicle.
Used microfiber rectangular applicator. This way I can see how product is applied on versus towel when it`s kind of all over the towel.

Can`t really compare gloss before/after overcoat since car was in the garage before that and this is outside and therefore
completely different look when taking pics. But I like how it looks and that`s all I need.
Today we have some drizzle and a little bit of shower. Not much though but so far I`m pleased how clean (dirty ?) car is. Need to see it during some heavy rain.
Not washing it until next weekend.
 

Attachments

  • Overcoat-min.jpg
    Overcoat-min.jpg
    970.2 KB · Views: 147
  • Overcoat1-min.jpg
    Overcoat1-min.jpg
    968.4 KB · Views: 146
  • Overcoat2-min.jpg
    Overcoat2-min.jpg
    940.9 KB · Views: 146
  • Overcoat3-min.jpg
    Overcoat3-min.jpg
    920.7 KB · Views: 145
MDX done with Miyabi + ISM, June 22, 2018. I believe the only maintenance it sees is occasional run through a touchless tunnel, soap and rinse only:
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • mdx.jpg
    mdx.jpg
    412.1 KB · Views: 123
BudgetPlan1 said:
Can`t say for sure but I seem to recall that once opened, Miyabi OK for 6-9 months, ISM 6 months. As for protection properties, I dunno. I think I used some opened 9 month old Miyabi once and kinda remember it was a little tackier on application than fresh bottle although I also remember the heat and humidity of that night so maybe is was climate-related.

They have released a V2 of ISM, the Ultimate Finish in UK has the following description although not sure if it made it to good, `ol USA yet:


As for Stance, I have used Overcoat over it before with no ill effects. I have seen Miyabi used as a base for Stance as well. I recently started using Polish Angel Supersport over Stance, it works well and adds a subtle visual effect that I find pleasing, especially on the clear-coated aluminum portions of a wheel. Adds some slickness and some gloss to black painted/clearcoated sections as well.
Click to expand...

This is interesting and I don’t know how many people are noticing a trend. The higher end coatings are going softer. This one says “3-4H pencil scale. The more I learn about coatings the more I wonder if 9H is a good thing or even what we (detailers) should be keying on. I’m having an internal debate on dual layer coatings, which is kinda/sorta what you have when you apply Skin or Gliss over a standard coating. There is a certain amount of flex necessary for a coating not to become brittle and crack/fracture and as we want more hardness (maybe from a hype perspective) less may be ideal. I’m starting to believe a two layer system is best with a hard layer followed by a softer second layer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top