Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

Hi there.

This will be my first post here with question to BudgetPlan.

Put aside how car looks (glossy,shiny,candy, wet gloss etc) what would be your choice if it comes to self cleaning ability.

My car is a daily driver in the NYC. About 100 miles a day. Car is black and I don`t really care much about few small scratches here and there ( getting them here no matter what).

I can always buff it and re-coat.

I need to reduce maintenance (wash mostly) to the minimum.

I have McKees as a coating now. Maintaining with Hydro Blue. Waterless wash mostly with McKees 914

Maybe if I had highway miles only car would be cleaner, but I have a lot of city driving too.


Thanks in advance for info.
 
Vas62 said:
Hi there.

This will be my first post here with question to BudgetPlan.

Put aside how car looks (glossy,shiny,candy, wet gloss etc) what would be your choice if it comes to self cleaning ability.
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Both the Kamikaze Collection products (Miyabi, ISM or both) and 22ple HPC were the best at self cleaning. 22ple is also the most bizzarely easy coating to apply that I`ve used.

Topped with Kamikaze Overcoat, any coatings self cleaning and water behavior will increase significantly.

On most cars, the Kamikaze stuff adds a bit more complexity and depth to the finish but 22ple really looks good on metallic reds and blues.

Either will give you the best self cleaning among the ones I`ve used. The 22ple VS1 Final Coat is a nice topper as well.
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
Both the Kamikaze Collection products (Miyabi, ISM or both) and 22ple HPC were the best at self cleaning. 22ple is also the most bizzarely easy coating to apply that I`ve used.

Topped with Kamikaze Overcoat, any coatings self cleaning and water behavior will increase significantly.

On most cars, the Kamikaze stuff adds a bit more complexity and depth to the finish but 22ple really looks good on metallic reds and blues.

Either will give you the best self cleaning among the ones I`ve used. The 22ple VS1 Final Coat is a nice topper as well.
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Thanks.

That was super quick response.
 
Another question about Overcoat.

Isn`t it better to apply it ( on the dry car) with microfiber or suede applicator instead of towel ?

Kind of better to see how product is spreading on the car instead of spreading on the towel.

Dunno, maybe it`s just me.

Thanks in advance for response.
 
Vas62 said:
Another question about Overcoat.

Isn`t it better to apply it ( on the dry car) with microfiber or suede applicator instead of towel ?

Kind of better to see how product is spreading on the car instead of spreading on the towel.

Dunno, maybe it`s just me.

Thanks in advance for response.
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It works better for me if applied like applying a coating but you can also use it as a drying aid.
 
I`m going to apply ( or should I say re apply)coa coating in coming week or so. Either Wolfgang Uber or McKees 37 .Didn`t decide yet .

My question is how long should I wait before applying Overcoat .I mean I don`t want to wait until first wash or so .I want to put a layer of Overcoat right after I put base coating . What would be waiting time in case of Wolfgang Uber.
Budgetplan has experience with it .
Any input is appreciated.
 
Vas62 said:
.
My question is how long should I wait before applying Overcoat .I mean I don`t want to wait until first wash or so .I want to put a layer of Overcoat right after I put base coating . What would be waiting time in case of Wolfgang Uber.
Budgetplan has experience with it .
Any input is appreciated.
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My only experience with the specific WG Uber + Overcoat combo was beginning to use Overcoat 2-3 months after Uber application.

With regards to Overcoat following a coating application in general, the general consensus is to apply Overcoat "within a few hours after coating application".

I`ve waited anywhere from 4hrs to 24hrs, mostly based on convenience, and been fine.

Have you made your final decision on Uber v McKees yet?
 
As always quick response. Thanks.
Going with Wolfgang this time mostly because I can smear every surface with it without getting dedicate coating for glass,trim, wheel s etc.
McKees will wait for its time after Uber worn-out .
With this car serving it`s purpose as a working horse and NYC during winter time I guess it won`t take too long to get to that point.
Hope Overcoat will help to keep it longer.
Again, thanks for responding fast.
 
Vas62 said:
With this car serving it`s purpose as a working horse and NYC during winter time I guess it won`t take too long to get to that point.
Hope Overcoat will help to keep it longer.
Again, thanks for responding fast.
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IMO, Uber us a nice product, just over priced for what it delivers. Applied it to a NE Ohio daily driver in May 2016, about 18k miles later in May 2017 it had given up on vertical panels after daily, 70 mile a day winter commute.

With Overcoat it should get you thru winter just fine but will need some attention next Spring. That was prior version of Overcoat, too soon to tell if new V2.1 maintains the toughness...
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
IMO, Uber us a nice product, just over priced for what it delivers. Applied it to a NE Ohio daily driver in May 2016, about 18k miles later in May 2017 it had given up on vertical panels after daily, 70 mile a day winter commute.

With Overcoat it should get you thru winter just fine but will need some attention next Spring. That was prior version of Overcoat, too soon to tell if new V2.1 maintains the toughness...
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I ordered overcoat on Friday.

Should be here in a few days. No idea if it`s new V2.1.

Probably not. Anyway whatever comes will be used. I know lower part on vertical panels will be hit hard.

Wondering if that would help a little bit if I put second layer of Uber on those panels.

Searched forums and didn`t find anybody mentioned about second coat of Wolfgang.

Or maybe mid- winter reapply on doors/fenders if anything is left in syringe.
 
Vas62 said:
I ordered overcoat on Friday.

Should be here in a few days. No idea if it`s new V2.1.

Probably not. Anyway whatever comes will be used. I know lower part on vertical panels will be hit hard.

Wondering if that would help a little bit if I put second layer of Uber on those panels.

Searched forums and didn`t find anybody mentioned about second coat of Wolfgang.

Or maybe mid- winter reapply on doors/fenders if anything is left in syringe.
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I believe it will be version 2.1.

As for a second layer, shouldn`t be an issue. Might not help, but I wouldn`t think it would hurt anything. I mighta done 2.

I dont think Uber will necessarily be gone after a winter; it`s just that the entertaining water properties will be degraded. And really, we dont coat cars for dry weather so much as to be entertained by their performance in wet. Not entertaining me? Time to redo it whether it`s still `there` or not!
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
I believe it will be version 2.1.

As for a second layer, shouldn`t be an issue. Might not help, but I wouldn`t think it would hurt anything. I mighta done 2.

I dont think Uber will necessarily be gone after a winter; it`s just that the entertaining water properties will be degraded. And really, we dont coat cars for dry weather so much as to be entertained by their performance in wet. Not entertaining me? Time to redo it whether it`s still `there` or not!
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That`s exactly what I want from coated car. To be able to withstand dirt as much as possible, not to get exited about water beading on the hood (still like it though ).

And there is no way I can avoid small scratches/marring on a black car (You get the same on a white car , just won`t notice it that much LOL).

By the way it`s 2015 Lexus ES. Very soft paint.

The other thing I`m trying to find is something good for dust repealing/anti-static. Car is parked on the street and after washing in the evening next morning car is covered in a dust layer. Not much overnight but after few days

it starts looking ugly and waterless wash must be done again.
 
Vas62 said:
That`s exactly what I want from coated car. To be able to withstand dirt as much as possible, not to get exited about water beading on the hood (still like it though ).
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Sure makes standing in the rain watching more fun, though. On the plus side, more run-off/sheeting...less dirt.

Vas62 said:
And there is no way I can avoid small scratches/marring on a black car (You get the same on a white car , just won`t notice it that much LOL).

By the way it`s 2015 Lexus ES. Very soft paint.
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Pretty much unavoidable if the car is actually driven (and washed often). Picked up a new black Honda last June, 24k miles later the hood is nearly in tatters from all the road debris/salt/rock/gravel/misc parts flying off of crappy cars in front of me. To a normal person, just a few chips here and there...to me, totally wrecked. Great advertisement for PPF.

Vas62 said:
The other thing I`m trying to find is something good for dust repealing/anti-static. Car is parked on the street and after washing in the evening next morning car is covered in a dust layer. Not much overnight but after few days

it starts looking ugly and waterless wash must be done again.
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I have an unfortunate penchant for black, had 4 black cars once at the same time. Sure does look good for the 15 minutes after ya wash it.
 
I`m a strong believer to use a tar remover once and a while. IME you revive most LSP if they are chemical resistant enough. Even with only Gyeon Wet Coat on the car this last winter. And a month in I saw degrade on the lower side panels and the back of the car. The kerosene based tar degreaser got it back to the other horisontall panels water behavior. So once a month or when you are able to use a tar remover. You will hold up the water behavior nicely on a coated car. Even a dedicated prewash foam like gtechnic w4 citrus foam or gyeon foam or 3D orange 88 degreaser would be great to use before the wash. The pressure from the PW to clean with gets it cleaner too. Then the tar degreaser and after PW that off the 2bm or any other wash method as it`s clean enough to do that after this prewash.

/Tony
 
Every Spring I`ll hose the car down with Gyeon Iron, then Gyeon Tar...brings everything back to `just coated` (so far, anyway).



SWETM said:
I`m a strong believer to use a tar remover once and a while. IME you revive most LSP if they are chemical resistant enough. Even with only Gyeon Wet Coat on the car this last winter. And a month in I saw degrade on the lower side panels and the back of the car. The kerosene based tar degreaser got it back to the other horisontall panels water behavior. So once a month or when you are able to use a tar remover. You will hold up the water behavior nicely on a coated car. Even a dedicated prewash foam like gtechnic w4 citrus foam or gyeon foam or 3D orange 88 degreaser would be great to use before the wash. The pressure from the PW to clean with gets it cleaner too. Then the tar degreaser and after PW that off the 2bm or any other wash method as it`s clean enough to do that after this prewash.

/Tony
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Vas62 said:
That`s exactly what I want from coated car. To be able to withstand dirt as much as possible, not to get exited about water beading on the hood (still like it though ).
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Completely agree. And we are all allowed to enjoy different things! I just simply don`t care about 130 degree water beading or whatever, I just want enough to tell me the product is still there (I do like a good sliding angle though).

I`m still trying to dig into the chemistry of these products to figure out what would suit me best. It`s almost impossible with all of the marketing out there. The closest I`ve gotten is the discussion on here about Mohs:

GYEON_Jeff said:
[...] Q2 Mohs is a PHPS based coating (polysilazane.....and not SiO2). So very smooth application without the tacky wipe off. [...]

[...] Q2 Mohs is also designed as a protection oriented product. Is it the glossiest on the planet by itself? Probably not although it delivers plenty of gloss and I install it as a stand alone often. The Sio2 based coatings will deliver that very dramatic bend of light where Q2 Mohs gives a very crisp and clean pop.

Does it give the highest water bead angle on the planet at 105 degree contact angle? Probably not although that`s not to say it doesn`t display nice beading characteristics and remove water and contaminant from the surface at a high level.

Q2 Mohs really shows it`s stuff in terms of durability and protection, which is what we are asking a coating to really do. It is extremely resistant in terms of UV and Chemical damage. It`s ability to withstand penetration from these factors is at the top of its class. [...]
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What I really want is a coating that`s easy to clean. When bugs, bird bombs, water spots, grime, etc inevitably happen they come off easily during my maintenance wash.
 
DetailZeus said:
Completely agree. And we are all allowed to enjoy different things! I just simply don`t care about 130 degree water beading or whatever, I just want enough to tell me the product is still there (I do like a good sliding angle though).

I`m still trying to dig into the chemistry of these products to figure out what would suit me best. It`s almost impossible with all of the marketing out there. The closest I`ve gotten is the discussion on here about Mohs:



What I really want is a coating that`s easy to clean. When bugs, bird bombs, water spots, grime, etc inevitably happen they come off easily during my maintenance wash.
Click to expand...

The ideal scenario would be if everything is washed out with pressure washer without even touching car. Well, maybe some foam before it. Numerous of videos when folks doing it but it`s only on light contamination.

Some day I hope.
 
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