really struggling with paint inspection / swirl detection

Took the Scangrip Sunmatch light to test it on the white Ford Focus I maintain and a blue metallic VW Passat I do some testing on. While I can get a good view with little adjusting with the angles when inspection done with the Sonax Inspection Light Pen. There is a little spot the light is able to show me. And not spreading of the light on the defects that long outside of the light spot. I fought to do the Sunmatch an unfair test environment with full sun up. And it did pass with flying colors. The defects and the paint that is corrected on some parts of the VW Passat was easy spotted and without any problems with finding the right angle. Just find the distance and it where easy to see. On the white Focus also easy to get the defects on the paint showing easly. I have done a polishing or you could say a paint cleaning with Ultima Paintprep Plus on the horisontall panels. It`s quite impresive how the Ultima PPP without any abrasives in it has corrected the paint. Only the light defects was corrected and the deeper defects still there. The Sunmatch light did awesome to help me to see the difference on the paint. That I`m aware of is on the cars. Will be intresting to see how it works on my Kia cee`d silver metallic paint. That was polished to not haveing almost no defects on it last spring. And the defects I have been seeing is from the takeing off the snow during the winter and some light wash indused swirls. But know I feel like I will see the condition of the paint much easier. So for hand held lights I don`t know why I searched so long for a light that would work good. When I had the option to go straight an awesome light available to get that is well proven. The price is the biggest reason. But when you sum it up it would be cheaper to get it right away as useally. Well know I have an inspection light that works great and is easy to work with.
 
Accumulator said:
SWETM- Appreciate your feedback on the Sunmatch. Think it`d show holograms on the white?
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Honestly I don`t know. Maybe in a garage so the different surroundings outside don`t interfear when it`s light up. The lower sides of the white Focus is swirled up badly. And the defects around the light bulp reflection from the Sunmatch was visible quite far from it. So with bad holograms I think it will show easy. Then if the deeper defects than the holograms is polished off before the holograms was installed. I`m almost certain that you can spot the holograms. I think I would have a problem with the Sonax Inspection Light Pen to see holograms.

I wonder what the difference is with the Scangrip Sunmatch II light?
Seems like you have not had it over the pond so long?
What I have reading about it is it has a higher brightness/Lux. And the two different settings is 4500k and 6500k. Think this newer version has even better ability to see the fine defects on the paint like holograms and haze from polishing for an example. If I would have doing paint correction on living on it or I would be certain to get the most effective inspection light. I would invest in a Sunmatch II light. And I know regret that I got a halogens on a tripod and diy a tripod with 2 30w led lights. Those together would have gotten me the Multimatch light instead. The Multimatch light at the same place I got the Sunmatch light at. Have them for 105$. They have gotten a delivery of the first version of Scangrip. And sells them out to a great price. They have only offered the Scangrip II lights before. And the retail price of them is about the same prices you have over there. I never learn to do it right the first time LOL
 
SWETM- My problem is that, surprisingly, people have PM`ed me that they do *not* see things like light holograms well under the newer Sunmatch. I get the feeling they don`t want to post that publicly because somebody will tell them that they`re wrong (IOW, that they shouldn`t believe their eyes).

This *is* a tricky thing for me...even before my vision issues my wife and I would have to team up for extended periods to spot light holograms (that others didn`t see at all even when I put my finger right on them and said "here") with the light sources that do work for me.
 
Sadly, I have not found a one-size-fits-all light. I use halogen, fluorescent, LED, Scangrip V1 and V2 and the high noon sun etc.
The sun is "My best friend and my worst enemy". I use a few different techniques (bright lights, dark room with a spotlight etc.).
IMHO use what works best for you in your environment. I like carrying the V2. They all show different things in different ways.
 
Merlin said:
Sadly, I have not found a one-size-fits-all light...
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Agree, I need numerous light sources to cover all the bases.

I`ve had light holograms that were only visible for a few minutes a day in natural sunlight; couldn`t see `em any other way, nor could my wife. But we did see them for that brief window....took forever to do that one.
 
Alright, I have found the ultimate swirl finder light....and I`ve had it since last October and forgot all about it!


I call him mini me! :)
 
I bought a knock-off Scangrip and was a bit disappointed. Just for fun I stuck it to some metal in my garage about 6-8 feet from my car because it has a magnetized base.

All of a sudden I could see everything. All of the swirls and defects.

I guess if you`re like me and just trying to figure this detection thing out, try setting the lighting a little further away.
 
Mike lambert said:
That is why most European and Asian shops went to dark walls. It keeps the lights from washing out defects.we did this at our shop and it makes a world of difference.
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The walls at the brand new Rupes USA facility are black in the garage part. They just opened this facility back in January. Then they had a bay that looked like a spray booth without doors. It had white walls , and lit to the hilt.
 
someidiot said:
I guess if you`re like me and just trying to figure this detection thing out, try setting the lighting a little further away.
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Yes indeed :D Varying the illumination/viewing angle and distance is a major factor all right. I bet you`ll find the inspection a lot less frustrating now, even if you do spend lots of time working on all those variations to find what`s just right.
 
A tips if you have problems to see defects or there are suposed to be non. Take your mobile phone camera with the lighning setting on. Hold the about a feet away or closer and snap a picture. This has worked really great for me. But not so convinient while you correct the paint LOL.



It`s a hassel to get the right angle when takeing pictures when the Sunmatch lights up the defects. Any tips on how you get great pictures when you use the Sunmatch light are welcome.
 
I polished and coated my car yesterday with these new lighting tips. I felt that it went very well. My car looks so much better than it ever has. I`m really happy with it.
 
The lighting wasn`t working well last night in my garage. And today my car got rained on. I`ll see how it looks later today.

I also coated the trim on the side of my car, which I think made a tremendous difference. I need to learn how to clean my wheels wells.
 
someidiot said:
..I also coated the trim on the side of my car, which I think made a tremendous difference. I need to learn how to clean my wheels wells.
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Glad things are going well!

Yeah, having the trim treated oughta make it easier than having to redo it all the time.

For the wells, IMO it`s best to jack the car up enough that you can really get in there. *I* would pull the wheel in each well and go all Autopian-overboard at least the first time, but just having it up high enough to gain access oughta make all the difference. Once those surfaces are clean/smooth/LSPed it`s easy to keep them nice.
 
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