New Battery!

The Driver

The Driver

Detailers Workshop
Installed the new Lithium battery, Anti-Gravity Rs-30, WOW. I never thought I`d say that about a battery but the weight and the tech is pretty cool. I can tell the rear is a bit lighter through the tight twists. The Re-Start function is pretty crazy as well.


Pros


Saved 41 lbs and removed it off/PAST the rear axel
Nice anti-theft feature (Battery has an on off button + battery gauge)
Battery has an Auto-shut off when it gets to low so you can still start (Re-start technology)
No AGM gas venting, No lead or Acid


Cons


Price at 680$ it`s not cheap but removing over 40lbs is extremely tough to do on the R
Not as many AH @ 30 AH vs 85 you do have to watch parasitic draw
CCA isn`t specified, rated at 1200 CA, base on braille and others my conservative -30 degree estimate is around 750-800cca, my Bosch was/is 850cca


rs30 by Joseph Cipriano
 
Daily Driver or track rat ? Been down that road before, and IMO the cost outweighs the benefits....
Even on Daily Drivers, where I was putting high end AGM`s, I stopped going that route and just put in 4 yr/5 yr Autozone AGM.

My 30 amp Ctek charger has been sitting around unused for quite sum time..(aka, most high end AGM`S like high load charges)
 
It`s my Daily but I plan on tracking it every once in a while, still plan on keeping my Bosch 850CCA AGM just in case.
 
Parasitic draw, key left in ignition, left iphone/ipad on 12V on a port that does not turn off with ignition. Alternator getting funky...and throwing high/low volts.

Best of luck man. I hear you about shaving weight, but just be a bit more ~prepared~ ya know.
 
mobiledynamics said:
Parasitic draw, key left in ignition, left iphone/ipad on 12V on a port that does not turn off with ignition. Alternator getting funky...and throwing high/low volts.

Best of luck man. I hear you about shaving weight, but just be a bit more ~prepared~ ya know.
Click to expand...

Oh, I know... Ran a PC680 in FD rx7. I learned plenty of times.

This is a 30 ah, 1200ca brick. I need 650 at best to fire it on, all the lighting is replaced by LED which chops draw down by a ton. I installed a brand new alternator and the wiring harness is new/completely rebuilt by me. The parasidic draw isn`t an issue because of the restart function, once the charge hits below 11v it will automatically disconnect saving the battery for a fresh start. This isn`t meant to be a track replacement battery, it`s meant to be a direct replacement battery (It`s embracing the future).
 
Battery tech is pretty wild these days.

I’m with mobiledynamics, my bias still goes towards conventional batteries. Why? It’s what the car was designed to work with.

At our shop, all of our race cars have used standard batteries. They always start when you need them to, and aren’t as susceptible to odd voltage glitches that the car may not like. (Been there, chased that).

This is in a Volvo, no? Do you know if your car has a more intelligent charging system than just your basic voltage regulator?
For the cars I see, all the new stuff goes to charging regulated by the engine computer or a power module. These are cars where it changes the algorithm it uses to determine charging voltage/amperage based on many factors, including type of battery/size/age.

Not trying to diss your new setup! Sounds like a wild battery, and a weight difference you can feel!

Last thing as a guy that does tech inspections for track cars - you might want to look at adding some plastic in front of the battery to insulate between the positive terminal and the body. In a perfect world, it shouldn’t make contact, but... (SOP for tech inspections dictates at a minimum that the positive terminal is covered)
 
OHL -

I digress about the IBS.....any battery (in use) likes to be at full SOC. Thanks to green technology, they are only at like 85%`ish SOC .
 
The Driver- Hey, that *is* one light battery! Thanks for posting about it, even though it`d never be right for me...it *does* show how the tech is advancing, so maybe the next generation will do it for me.
 
Cool. I just recently learned about AGM batteries in my BMW and the frickin registration charge from the stealership. Cars are too smart.
 
GARY51 said:
You have way too much money!
Click to expand...

No just spend it in different ways :) How much does it cost to shave even 10lbs off most cars?

Most spend 1k on a tune, another 2.5k in repairs after breaking things. I know with the battery I`m not breaking anything and I`m reducing weight, plus it helps ever so slightly with gas mpg.

The official numbers are in..

Old - Bosch AGM 850CCA Group 49 = 57.1lbs
New - Anti-Gravity Rs-30 750CCA Group ?? = 10.8lbs

That is a big time saving, esp since I do plan to have fun with it at the track. Again this weight is past the rear axel and against the bumper if it were centered (behind the engine in the front it would be a bit less of a gain)
 
Oneheadlite said:
Battery tech is pretty wild these days.

I’m with mobiledynamics, my bias still goes towards conventional batteries. Why? It’s what the car was designed to work with.

At our shop, all of our race cars have used standard batteries. They always start when you need them to, and aren’t as susceptible to odd voltage glitches that the car may not like. (Been there, chased that).

This is in a Volvo, no? Do you know if your car has a more intelligent charging system than just your basic voltage regulator?
For the cars I see, all the new stuff goes to charging regulated by the engine computer or a power module. These are cars where it changes the algorithm it uses to determine charging voltage/amperage based on many factors, including type of battery/size/age.

Not trying to diss your new setup! Sounds like a wild battery, and a weight difference you can feel!

Last thing as a guy that does tech inspections for track cars - you might want to look at adding some plastic in front of the battery to insulate between the positive terminal and the body. In a perfect world, it shouldn’t make contact, but... (SOP for tech inspections dictates at a minimum that the positive terminal is covered)
Click to expand...


I actually just finished that, I lined the whole cubby with anti-static thermal lining god for bid. As far as the size, it is around the same CA, I don`t think AH will be a factor though mainly because the car gets driven everyday. If this were a fun car I might worry but I highly doubt it. I`m more of an OEM guy than most but something things do make sense to increase the stock efficiency of the car. Perfect example is I converted the whole entire car to LED, I`ve had one resistor go bad which caused a simple code other than that its been amazing. I actually left my lights on at the train station for 18 hours straight and the car fired right up.

I think alot of people conflate change with negative, a perfect example is headlights. Yes, putting in an HID in a halogen housing is dumb but upgrading a halogen housing to projected housing then fitting it with an hid setup is amazing and safer. Same goes for Aftermarket OE suppliers, my stock D2R Phillips are ok, switching them out to OSRAM CBB isn`t a bad thing, less draw, more lumens, cleaner light pattern and safer. Straying from OEM isn`t always a bad thing, it`s knowing when to and when not to that really sets skill apart.

I`ve done the lightweight AGM thing before, this is definitely different.
 
So just a fun update.

The Battery is AWESOME to say the least, I`ve pretty much forgot about it which is a good thing. The only time I remember it`s there is when I need to do work. As most of you who work on Euro`s know, anytime you want to "unplug" or "remove" something you need to cut the power, otherwise you`ll trigger 1 of 10 billion codes. Well, having an on/off switch is the best thing ever with a car like this, literally has saved me tons of time over the past month or so.
 
Update, hit our first mid 30`s overnight weather. Car fires up beautifully, even after sitting for 3 days and not turned over once.


Brought in for a CCM calibration, Tech was impressed how long the car stayed on without any issue (Lights on, Climate control fan speed maxed and software updating, all while no engine power). Stated that usually most die under these calibrations unless turned over.
 
Way more confident, the one time is has gone off (Into hibernation), it fired up immediately once I restarted it. I would say I`m more confident in it now than a standard size AGM. The biggest factor is cost now, I can say so far this has been the same if not more reliable than my OE battery. Keep in mind we`ve had very wild temp swings lately 70-35 degrees for the past few weeks.

To be honest it`s not that tiny, about half 1/3 of the size of a group 49 AGM (Which is massive), it`s just very light. I`d say by lithium standards it`s extremely large.

I don`t think I could give this thing up now mainly because the on/off feature when working on the car is such a creature comfort I could never go back (I work on the car a lot).
 
Still going strong, I haven`t had a single issue. The battery has behaved normal, the restart function works great for times it`s needed (Working on the car, running updates etc.) I let the car site for 4 days in 20-40 degree weather and zero issues with starting. The ONLY issue it seems is when the battery hasn`t cycled for a long time and the car is turned off but radio, heater an lights are on, it will last about 5 minutes before it will kick off. I`ve only encountered that issue recently is sub 30 degree weather, during the summer it`s fine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top