Etched Glass-Help and suggestions needed

J

JSFM35X

Active member
Does anyone have experience with etched glass. Looks like someone tried to clean it with a product that etched it. (not my glass) I see run marks and blotches.

I used a full bottle of Ceriglass and 6 Griots pads to do an area the size of 1/2 a windshield. Took over 2 hours using a flex and a lot of pressure. Man that flex got hot.

I am totally up for suggestions as I need to finish the job. I did order some cerium oxide powder off amazon but I have no clue how to use it, it says to make a past and use as polish so I guess I will try that. It was dirt cheap but I am looking for someone with experience who can write me a prescription :)

What I clarified, looks perfect but it was very hard, time consuming- work.
 
I have never heard of an easy method of removing scratches from glass. A rotary, rayon pad, Ceriglass, and a ton of hard work is the only way I know to beat glass into submission. I have thought of contacting a local company that does glass repair to see if they have heard of an easier way, but I never followed up on it.
 
I think you’re doing it the right way, I use Griot’s glass polish, I think it’s a little more than ceriglass. Might try some fine brass wool and white vinegar first to mane cut thru the first rough stuff?
 
Just be careful, if you get cerium oxide powder to not inhale it.. Very toxic.. I bought some years ago from Eastwood..
Yes, you have to take the powder and make a paste with it.

Be careful to not heat the glass up too much or it can start to warp.
The warp will be seen from the inside of the car out...

Remember, its 2 thin sheets of glass with a plastic piece between them, not a solid piece of glass..

Did you try Meguiars 105 on the glass ? I believe a forum or two ago, Todd from Autopia, who went to Rupes, posted a glass correction he did on a vehicle...

This is where a Rotary would work better and faster.. But would still require some downward pressure, and minding at the same time, to not get it too hot..

Go by a Glass Shop and ask them what they use for removing this stuff on windshields ??
Dan F
 
Me personally I never get involved in a glass job that will not clear up with just a light polish. It`s just not worth it and the chance to swirl up glass is too high a risk.

Don`t use steel wool on glass, at least I never recommend it on newer modern glass. Store bought vinegar will not do anything for this type of issue. Contact Dr. G at Optimum and get his "100 proof moonshine" type vinegar potion. That may do the trick but again in future I would bypass the bad glass as it`s usually not a money maker due to the labor of project.

Anthony
 
Mike lambert said:
I think you’re doing it the right way, I use Griot’s glass polish, I think it’s a little more than ceriglass. Might try some fine brass wool and white vinegar first to mane cut thru the first rough stuff?
Click to expand...

Mike ... do you use the Griot`s Glass Polishing Pads or another brand with the glass polish?
 
I used Ceriglass and the CarPro rayon glass polishing pad and removed some bad scratches where someone`s windshield wiper frame obviously dragged on the glass for a long period of time.
 
I have used the Griots pads and the carpro pads. Neither struck me as better than one another. In fact they get so hot I literally went through them like water. I have a Hugh glass problem on my hands. The good news is not mine. The bad news is I’m working for free. It’s a good friend / customer. I’m into this for 4 hours so far and about 100 bucks in pads. I won’t be doing glass again ever. The only reason I volunteered is because I’ve never done it and wanted to learn. He said he’d replace so no harm in trying / learning somethig new. What I learned mostly is to keep my mouth shut. But I’ll never learn that :(
 
Sorry I`m late to the party, there is another approach (which I have never tried, but I`d like to at some point, however, I have the same investments as some of you in glass compounds and pads).

Anyway, 3M makes some sanding materials for glass that you can get at gtglass dot com. I`m not sure I really have the cojones to sand glass, but it sure sounds like a faster way to do it. I have had some good success in other applications for these type of 3M abrasives, so it`s interesting, for sure.
 
You know, I was serious (not cerious) about the glass sanding discs. They are PSA so you need a different backing plate, and I think the backing plates are for rotary so you may have to adapt them to DA...although that sounds wrong, the PC was a sander so there should be PSA backing plates that screw right in.

If you think about trying to remove scratches (or in this case, etches) from glass using a pad/compound combination that takes hours...that`s kind of like trying to remove heavy marring from your paint using a finishing polish and pad...you`d never do that.

The glass polishing (sand)paper comes in several grits, obviously you`d start with the least abrasive first, and these are going to need plenty of water I`d presume, for cooling and to flush the debris. And I`m sure it requires some intestinal fortitude, because just like wet sanding or heavy compounding on your paint, the material removal required is going to haze your glass. I`d want to try a small test spot and make sure I could bring it back before doing the whole window, or whatever it is you`re working on.

It just seems like the right way to do it, match your abrasive to the hardness of the substrate.
 
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