Which Microfiber Cutting Disks (Or Wool?) for a PC 7424?

[Bill1975]

Having now polished (or attempted to polish) my VW GTI`s paint a few times with mixed results, I`ve received multiple suggestions to look into using a microfiber cutting disk. Right now, the most aggressive set up I have used is a Lake Country 5.5" yellow foam pad with a compound (I`ve used Optimum Compond and Griots Fast Correcting Cream). There are a few spots on my car that don`t respond, even with the PC on the highest speed setting of 6, several passes, and a fair amount of pressure. In looking, I`ve come upon 3 different models of pad, though it is difficult to tell if there is much of a difference - The LC 5 1/4" MF Cutting Pad, Meguiars DMX5, and Meguiars DMC5. I know the DMX5 is said to be 25% more aggressive, but that`s a bit hard for me to quantify. I`ve also seen some wool pads, and LC `foamed` wool pads. I`m not sure where these fall on the spectrum, relative to MF and foam.

For stubborn swirl marks on a VW, what is the next step up in terms of "bite" and correcting ability? When used on a DA are the chances of damaging paint still minimal compared to a rotary?

 

[jrock645]

A lot of guys like the meguiars pads but I think their durability was lacking if I’m remembering correctly.

Ive used b&s mf cutting pads on Mercedes paint with great results. Cut well and still finished lsp ready.
Used a lot of LC pads but not their mf pads, so can’t comment.

Ive heard the griots mf pads are the best. Evidently they don’t get matted the same way the others do. Never tried them, though, because they’re also by far the most expensive(at least they were when I was looking to buy mf pads).

Hope this helped.

 

[Bill1975]

Thanks, it does help. I recall seeing part of a video where a Megs rep claimed they improved the durability in terms of how the MF is attached to the backing material.

 

[RaysWay]

I`m not a fan of the DMX5 pads, but love the DMC5`s. I use the DMC5`s the most since they have slightly more cut than the Griot`s mf pads. For a Porter Cable, I would go with the Lake Country mf pads if you`re dealing with hard paint. They`ve been holding up great for me and have even more cut than the DMC5`s. Just keep in mind you will 100% need to follow up with a polish and foam pad to finish.

 

[SWETM]

I have not had any hard paints to work with yet. But have Scholl White spider sandwich pads for the 3" and 5" backing plates. In Scholl claimed cuts 7/8 and finish 6/8. It`s a foam and wool hybrid pad to keep the heat down when compounding. And it`s suits DA and rotary polishers. Have seen some impresive cut and finish combined with Scholl S3 Gold XXL compound. It`s not a heavy cut compound but cut 6.5/8 and finish 6.5/8. Is on par with the Menzerna FG400 compound I think. If you need a heavy cut compound you have Scholl S2 Orange extra heavy cut compound cuts 7/8 and finish 5/8. The spiderpads goes from least aggressive honey spiderpad finishing pad and purple spiderpad medium cutting pad and navy blue spiderpad cutting pad and white spiderpad heavy cut pad. The most coarse pad from Scholl is the SOFTouch TopWool pads which cuts 8/8. Durability of Scholl pads is great and the abrasive is great too. The S20 Black SS is an awesome one step compound and the S40 ultra finishing polish is also a top notch product.

 

[Accumulator]

When used on a DA are the chances of damaging paint still minimal compared to a rotary?

Despite hammering a lot of cars with extremely aggressive combos via rotary, the only time I`ve burned paint it was with a PC and a relatively mild foam pad/product combo. You can severely (as in, gotta repaint) damage paint with most anything.

Oh man do I hate the LC Yellow. Mediocre cut and leaves a lousy finish. And FWIW, IMO Optimum`s compound is pretty mild.

Also IMO, "several passes" via PC isn`t even a start on many correction jobs. When working with moderately aggressive combos (as most anything will be when PC is involved) it can take a LOT of passes and a LOT of time. The upside of that is that you`re taking the clear off so incrementally that it`s reasonably safe.

I know that a lot of people post how quickly/easily they do significant correction, but that`s not my experience when using reasonably mild approaches (which I believe most should stick with). It takes me forever to remove those mils, which isn`t all bad since fixing a kinda-deep scratch will often involve taking off *all* the clear that can ever be spared (IMO people overcorrect paint all the time and thus precipitate failure down the road).

Heh heh, so a Meguiar`s rep says they improved the durability, huh? OK...I do like/use the Meguiar`s MF Cutting Disks, easy to clean using the air compressor. But I`m probably buying different ones next time.

EDIT: Oh, and I never liked the LC PFW pads as much as some others do. For one thing, they`re harder to clean than MF and only work well when they *are* very clean. So I`d go through a *lot* of them per panel, big hassle.

 

[The Guz]

Having now polished (or attempted to polish) my VW GTI`s paint a few times with mixed results, I`ve received multiple suggestions to look into using a microfiber cutting disk. Right now, the most aggressive set up I have used is a Lake Country 5.5" yellow foam pad with a compound (I`ve used Optimum Compond and Griots Fast Correcting Cream). There are a few spots on my car that don`t respond, even with the PC on the highest speed setting of 6, several passes, and a fair amount of pressure. In looking, I`ve come upon 3 different models of pad, though it is difficult to tell if there is much of a difference - The LC 5 1/4" MF Cutting Pad, Meguiars DMX5, and Meguiars DMC5. I know the DMX5 is said to be 25% more aggressive, but that`s a bit hard for me to quantify. I`ve also seen some wool pads, and LC `foamed` wool pads. I`m not sure where these fall on the spectrum, relative to MF and foam.

For stubborn swirl marks on a VW, what is the next step up in terms of "bite" and correcting ability? When used on a DA are the chances of damaging paint still minimal compared to a rotary?

The Meguiar`s DMC5, Lake Country or Griot`s Boss microfiber pads will all work just fine on the PC. No need to worry about durability with either of those pads on the PC. D300 on the Meguiar`s microfiber cutting pads is a nice combo on hard paints.

 

[Bill1975]

The Meguiar`s DMC5, Lake Country or Griot`s Boss microfiber pads will all work just fine on the PC. No need to worry about durability with either of those pads on the PC. D300 on the Meguiar`s microfiber cutting pads is a nice combo on hard paints.

Thanks, I might get a variety. It sounds like they clog easily so I might get a few of each

 

[Bill1975]

Oh man do I hate the LC Yellow. Mediocre cut and leaves a lousy finish. And FWIW, IMO Optimum`s compound is pretty mild.

For some things they`re OK. Several panels on my car have been repainted (unfortunately) and those panels clean up much easier.

Also IMO, "several passes" via PC isn`t even a start on many correction jobs. When working with moderately aggressive combos (as most anything will be when PC is involved) it can take a LOT of passes and a LOT of time. The upside of that is that you`re taking the clear off so incrementally that it`s reasonably safe.



Heh heh, so a Meguiar`s rep says they improved the durability, huh? OK...I do like/use the Meguiar`s MF Cutting Disks, easy to clean using the air compressor. But I`m probably buying different ones next time.

[/QUOTE]

I usually consider a "pass" to be covering a section horizontally and vertically. I did 6 of those at most.

No air compressor here so I`ll keep a brush handy if that`s OK for MF

 

[RADetail]

The LC ThinPro gray heavy cutting cutting pads are also an option to think about. They don`t create as much resistance as the MF pads do and they keep the product on the surface rather than absorbing it up into the pad. The lack of an air compressor to clean out the MF pads is going to allow it to load up quickly and become unusable. I just did a ful0
l correction on a Chrysler Crossfire which has one of, if not the hardest clear coat in the history of the universe using the gray pads with outstanding results.

 

[jatleson]

I`ve been using, with great results, the Griot`s Boss Pads. I like that they have simplified what pads are required. My goto is the yellow pad, but recently had great results with an AIO on white. Only use the microfibers with compounds for really bad spots.

Other thing you may want to consider is getting a long throw DA. I started with the PC, great learning tool. It is now used for wax/sealant application. The difference in amount of correction between a long throw and the PC is night and day.

 

[Accumulator]

I usually consider a "pass" to be covering a section horizontally and vertically. I did 6 of those at most.

Sometimes I find it hard to communicate this stuff...this might be one of those times. If I`m understanding your right, you did a tiny fraction of what I`d usually consider necessary.

-Work product up/down/left/right/diagonally/etc. until it`s almost flashed (maybe that`s your "6 passes")
-Buff off residue, inspect panel, clean or replace pad and add product if necessary
-Repeat numerous times until original marring is replaced by light micromarring
-Do the above with milder pad/product combo to refine finish

Despite how fast others may do it, I could easily spend an hour per panel when working with a PC. Often I`d spend much longer.

With with the PC I really only got time-efficient results by using a 4" pad. Anything larger just took too long.

No air compressor here so I`ll keep a brush handy if that`s OK for MF

I dunno, I just use the compressor and never liked pad brushes.

I know it`s easy for me to spend your money for you, but I`d go off to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap compressor for ~$40. Every household oughta have one anyhow IMO, let alone a household where there`s Detailing being done.