Polishing questions

D

DEwalt

New member
I purchased a Griots DA a few years ago, and I`m finally starting to realize that I think I need a rotary to achieve the results that I`m looking for. I have polished a couple of times(different trucks) with the DA using polishes and heavy pads. I am seeing subpar results. Should I keep the Griots machine for waxing/sealants ect or can I use the rotary for everything? Any input on the DA and what I`m trying to achieve/recommendations for a rotary?
58aa10b476ed38d35e39c3a13c2bf864.jpg
0ef8255fcdec724626cf26f1744531cf.jpg


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I do not believe you need a rotary. I would slow down arm speed and possible reevaluate combos. Need to try different to combos. I have a griots da. And they are good but the rupes or flex da are better in that they cut faster imho. You need a coarser pad and more aggressive polish or compound to knock out the tough stuff and a finer pad and polish to finish off. Depending on damage you made need 3 steps especially on dark colors. Or you can jump right finish polish with a finish pad on minor damage. Adjust your pads and polish before you invest in equipment.

Where are you located perhaps someone can show you.
 
The Griot’s machine will do whatever you need it to. I would use the boss creams and pads. You want to stay with thin pads so more of the machines force gets to the surface. For cutting on that machine I would use microfiber pads. Slow and steady with a good deal of pressure, make 2 passes to get the major problem, and clean the pad thoroughly and then another couple of passes with a little less pressure to get what’s left. Then on to refining.
 
I too believe that there`s no need for a rotary; I never touch either of mine, and wouldn`t even for a monumental correction job (i.e., *much* worse than in those pics). The last time I did such work, I wetsanded/etc. and still never even considered using a rotary. IMO by the time somebody (who`s not a Pro) masters a rotary, they could`ve done an entire lifetime`s worth of correction with a RO/DA. (Note that in 40 years of this stuff I`ve never caused damage with a rotary; I`m no rotary-meister but I`m sure not bad; my only rotary-ISSUE is leaving minor holograms.)

If anything, with todays pads/products/RO/DA machines, you gotta watch that you don`t take off too much clear.

DEwalt- Sorry it`s being so frustrating! Eh, doing this stuff in a remotely safe manner sure can take a long time and I bet that`s part of the issue here.

The posted pics don`t indicate the need for anything really aggressive to me, not even if it`s the hardest clear ever.

I will agree that a more powerful machine will speed things up. My GG6 is good, but I`ll often reach for something more powerful for the aggressive work. But not a rotary unless you`re looking for a a new hobby/challenge to fill in some free time.

I bet that six-eight passes with aggressive stuff would fix that red paint up just fine. FWIW, I`d probably spend hours on each panel; some are much faster, but it takes as long as it takes and I don`t want to do damage.

Mike lambert- Huh, when I do major correction it often takes me a lot more passes than that. No, I`m not using GG FCC, but M101 on an aggressive pad via Flex 3401 is pretty aggressive too.

Gee, using a *rotary* with wool and M105 took more passes the last time I did that.

I`m only posting that as some non-pros are surprised when it takes sooo long to do significant correction. No, I don`t work as fast as many(most?) Pros here, but I`m 100% pleased with my results and I don`t do damage, and I bet that most non-pros would be satisfied to say the same.
 
If you mow down the major stuff first, the second go round is easier. Do yourself a favor and get the fast cut and get rid of the 101
 
Mike lambert- Well, the subsequent passes are generally easier.

I dunno about replacing my M101 with FCC, the M101 will last me the rest of this lifetime. I basically only do spot-correction these days, can`t imagine ever having to compound an entire panel again.
 
Pick up some microfiber cutting pads and Meguires d300 or Menzerma FG 400 and you can cut through the nasty stuff with the GG polisher. It will take a little longer than a rotary machine but it is doable and not that difficult. Finishing is the easy part.
 
Well I am kind of glad to hear my griots machine will do the work. I think part of my problem is I am being to cautious and I should probably using it a bit more aggressive. My pads have always stayed wet and I`m wondering if I should use less product to create more cut. I have been using lake country foam pads, green, orange, and black. Polishing with Poor Boys polishes, and several waxes including HD and a couple of others. Dodo juice cleaner, and a couple of clay bars. I have been researching trying to figure out what polishes and pads to try next. I`m located in KY, and a class is really what I need. I highly doubt there is much support in my area.

So when polishing should I be working the product to a dust?

Are there in good tutorials on polishing with a DA? I`ve looked some on YouTube and they do not teach much.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
For any machine you need pad rotation to get correction.
That is why Rotary machines work so great..Direct drive, nothing but pad rotation..

With your Random Orbital, you can still make this work, but it will take longer..

Some products the best guys on here use with the best machines of your type, appear to work faster and make excellent clarity and gloss..

I never work any product to dust.. Makes too much of a mess that needs to now be cleaned all off..
Would rather keep the pad just moist enough to work the product into that area of the paint until it`s almost all gone..
The pad does the work, the pad is not oversaturated with moisture or too much product, the pad cleans up whatever is done, and I have very little to wipe off, and not introduce more potential defects into the work..

You need a lot of pads to do this work, a couple of this type and that type, not even enough to go around an entire vehicle and correct to whatever level, paintwork.. And with that, you need a good pad cleaner so you can keep washing the pads every day, and setting them out to dry, and they sometimes take awhile to dry out, depending on your temperatures out there..

If I was using your machine I would run it all the way to 6 to get the most pad rotation, and keep the backing plate at 5" with some of the thinner pads made for your machine type.. The smaller the diameter, the thinner the pad, the less work for the machine to make it rotate..

You need to press down on the work to help it correct better, but not so much that it stops the pad from rotating,, You have to find that balance of downward pressure, and pad rotation..

Used to be, guys would take a black Sharpie and draw 1 straight line down the backing plate edge, so they could see how fast the line goes by and get an idea about how much pad rotation they are getting..
Good luck with this !
Dan F
 
DEwalt said:
So when polishing should I be working the product to a dust?

Are there in good tutorials on polishing with a DA? I`ve looked some on YouTube and they do not teach much.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

SMAT (non-diminishing abrasives) type polishes don`t break down like a DAT (diminishing abrasives). For example the mentioned compound Meguiar`s D300 is a SMAT based compound and works great on hard paints on the Meguiar`s microfiber cutting pad. Also leaves a nice finish. Sonax Cut Max is another good compound. One of recent favorites. Both user friendly. I have had Cut Max exhibit zero dusting. D300 has very little dusting as well.

Sure there is a polishing tutorial video. Check this one out.

 
FWIW, I only work one product to dust, and it`s a Burnishing Polish that nobody else uses...so IMO the basic rule-of-thumb is to never work a product that long.

If nothing else, once the carrying agents/oils are gone, it`s not the way it`s supposed to be any more. With nondiminishing abrasives, I don`t want to work them *without any lubricants* since they just keep on cutting all the time until they`ve been wiped off (and they even cut...i.e., micromar....when you do that wiping).
 
Stupid question: Can I put a smaller pad on a larger backing plate? It`s a velcro plate, not the hook and loop. Or do I need to buy a backing plate to match the pad?

Thank you for all the input! Accumulator, I know you have responded several times to my post, thanks for taking time to help.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
DEwalt said:
Stupid question: Can I put a smaller pad on a larger backing plate? It`s a velcro plate, not the hook and loop. Or do I need to buy a backing plate to match the pad?

Thank you for all the input! Accumulator, I know you have responded several times to my post, thanks for taking time to help.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

DEwalt -----
No, you should not do that, because the edge of the backing plate is now out there to hit and ruin things for you..
There is a reason the foam or microfiber pad overlaps the backing plate a little..

Backing plates are not expensive, you should have a 5", 4" and maybe a 3", with enough pads for each size..
If nothing else, get the 5" backing plate and a lot of 5.5" pads for it..
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
DEwalt -----
No, you should not do that, because the edge of the backing plate is now out there to hit and ruin things for you..
There is a reason the foam or microfiber pad overlaps the backing plate a little..

Backing plates are not expensive, you should have a 5", 4" and maybe a 3", with enough pads for each size..
If nothing else, get the 5" backing plate and a lot of 5.5" pads for it..
Dan F
Click to expand...
That makes sense, thank you for pointing that out. The backing plates I have been shopping around run 25-30 bucks each :-( . On my griots DA 4 screws hold the plate on, not the single stud in the center of the plate. This is hobby adds up over time for sure. Seems like there is always something I need or want.

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I looked around and cannot find that 4-screw backing plate for your machine at the Griot website.. :(

Hope you can find one somewhere; guess that was their perhaps "Original" Random Orbital machine??

All machines even older than Griot - like the Porter Cable 7424 Sander, came with the same threaded female part in the machine head, and the threaded male part on the back of the backing plates..

Yes, Detailing at a higher level does cost a lot and in the case of those of us that do it for a living, thousands of dollars to start..
Good luck with this !
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
I looked around and cannot find that 4-screw backing plate for your machine at the Griot website...
Click to expand...

What GG Polisher are we talking about, the 3" one?

I thought that GG just sold other units (most recently the PC, my newer one has a GG-logo case) up until they brought out the GG6 and all that came after.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top