Well, as long as we are on the subject of biohazards and crime scenes, one product I use for odors is Odorcide 210 by Thornell Corp. I found out about it on this forum and then found out that a local carpet and Persian rug dealer was the area dealer/distributor for it. What sold me was that on the company web site was a testimonial about a cleaning agency that used this product at crime scenes clean-up involving homicides. I would think, though, that an enzyme cleaner/deodorizer, like that that Poorboy`s has recently introduced, may be a "better" option for more common "vehicular" odors (like pets).
Since I bought a 16 ounce bottle of Odorcide, it will be some time before I use this up, as a little goes a long way. By the way, if you check out the website you will notice that they have several different "scents" for different application clean-up odors. The original scent I have is eucalyptus-like. It is a great deodorizer for clean-up of garbage cans that have onions smells, even if it takes two applications.
Now, I am waiting for someone to write up a clean-up of a skunk-sprayed vehicle. . Those of you who live in the Midwest Northwoods know what that smell is like when a skunk (AKA , woods pussycat) is killed on the road and someone runs over it to smash the scent gland that secretes this all-too familiar skunk odor on the road surface and you are the "unfortunate" next vehicle to run through road-kill debris. I dodge skunk road kill debris like any dangerous road-hazard that may damage my tires. Even faint traces of skunk spray can linger for several days and you do NOT want to park that vehicle in an attached garage. It is like your vehicle has some leprosy-like plague and no one wants to park next to you in parking lots, and for good reason!
For some chemical reason, the aceadic acid in tomato juice has long been used a odor neutralizer for skunk spray.
). Some stuff does need double-bagged before going in the can, liner or not, but gee...what, four seconds of extra work?