FK1000p Beginner questions

Hey Accumulator i think you have a Crystal Ball ! Because as i circle around my ride Like a Shark Eyeing off an Unsuspecting Surfer, i am trying to convince myself that my wax adds real value as a topper over the FK1000. I tell myself the wax has to add depth and deepen the color then the Surfer pulls his legs back onto his waxed board and I am not longer sure if what i am "seeing" is actually there. The longer i look at the Hood that currently has 2 coats of FK1000; the more i think that the only place that got FK100 and Wax the (Roof) hasn`t actually added "much," "little", slight", bling to the eye anyway (some fingerprint marks yes!). I still have most of the ute to go but i am fairly certain now that it will be the FK1000 as the LSP after my polish has gone on. Good Call LOL.

But i do have 2 questions on the FK1000, firstly i see you like additional coats is this because of added protection,gloss,or life span or maybe all 3. I have always thought that diminishing returns probably stops at 2 coats for most products but would love to hear your view on that. Secondly can you safely apply to painted plastic trim such as front and rear body spoilers? Thanks again . Oh the Surfer has drifted away on his waxed board !
 
DannyZZ- Heh heh, I appreciate the candid response about the perceived value/not of topping it. Sometimes we do indeed see what we want to see, and/but sometimes a little nudge lets us see things with Fresh Eyes and occasionally that yields a different opinion.

On some colors/cars I can imagine it being a good idea...hey, that`s why FK sells their Pink Wax (originally sold specifically as a topper for FK1000P), but 99% of the time IMO topping any sealant with any wax is a waste of resources.

The Diminishing Returns as related to layering/reapplying, is IME product-dependent. Some specific examples that are kinda extreme:

- Klasse Sealant Glaze: LAYER THIS ONE! I saw a definite appearance improvement up through 4 coats, could discern the diff easily. After that I saw no further improvement in appearance, perhaps even a slight (VERY slight) decrease. BUT I found that six or more layers were the way to go for durability and protection, and that`s basically what I was after. Doing 1-4 layers never got me the durability/protection I wanted. With just one or two I got better results with Collinite waxes.

-Collinite 845 and 476S: Despite what somebody "proved" (scare-quotes intentional ;) ) about how it "doesn`t layer" (again, scare-...) I get much better durability and protection with two-three layers. My personal fave approach was 845, then two coats of 476S. Never saw any need to spit-shine (in order to avoid solvent-action).

-Pinnacle Souveran: I gotta spit-shine this one in some manner or I see no diff, I assume it`s a solvent-action/like-removes-like situation.

-Malm`s Liquid Wax: Improbably, it seems to layer for me. Would`ve thought it`d do the solvent-action but it seems to really build up on there after all. Can require stripping at some point, just like the "wax build-up" in the floorcare product commercials.

OK, back on-topic product-wise ;)

-AutoGlym Super Resin Polish: Hey it "can`t possibly" (again, scare-...) layer since it contains cleaners and *even abrasives*, right?!? Wrong, at least IME. Gotta wait a day or so between applications, gotta apply the subsequent one *VERY* gently or it *will* just clean off the preceding one. But with two (never tried more) I got longer slickness/beading than I did with just one. Maybe that doesn`t prove anything to some folks, but it was enough for me to bother doing it.

-FK1000P: The more layers the longer it displays indicators of being LSPed, seems cut-and-dried to me. BUT, if I overdo it in the sense of either too many layers or too little time in-between applications, I get nasty pseudo-holograms that can sometimes be a real challenge to get off without resorting to extreme measures (which would require a complete reLSPing). So there *is* a definite chance of solvent-action happening, but not enough of it to actually compromise the previously-applied layers in the functional sense (just cosmetically).

Goodness, I do go on.... :o
 
NickClark08- MAYBE it is the shampoo, or maybe it`s just one of those paints where everything lasts a relatively short, and uniform, length of time (as with the A8 bumpercover). FWIW, using Griot`s and 3D Pink on FK1000P I can use a pretty strong mix (strong enough to clean effectively) without any LSP stripping.
 
Just spent most of my Sunday finishing off the compounding and did a finish polish then got to do one side of the Ute with SRP. I applied a very light coat of SRP probably the lightest i have ever done just to see if the extra light approach made any difference. When i polished off it rewarded me with a superb glow proving the point of how much our brain interferes with what actually works :ph34r:! Next the follow up with the FK1000 as the final topper (LOL) in a few days time.

Thanks for sharing what you have experienced with the multiple coats very interesting. On a another note i cant believe how hydrophobic the FK1000 is if were any better the water would evaporate before it hit the paint. Just wondering if the FK1000 is OK for painted trim haven`t tried there yet ?
 
Thanks partially to those here with nicknames starting with A and ending in R, I`m going to be an FK1000p beginner in a week or so. :). Wish me luck
 
DannyZZ- Yeah, with most any product I can think of..if it dries on the paint before you buff it off, it oughta be applied VERY thin. Rare exception might be when asking some AIO (including SRP I guess..) to do some really heavy lifting, especially with regard to oxidation. THEN I can see using plenty, but for anything remotely normal, use as little as you can while ensuring a uniform application. Hey, you can always add more to the pad after doing some small area (easy to be careful/meticulous when working those small areas too).

Yeah, you can use FK1000P on painted trim.

Example: The black inserts in my `93 Audi`s bumpercovers LOOK like they`re rubber or somesuch, but they`re just a pebble-grained textured plastic that`s painted black, while the rest of the bumpercover is the same plastic only SMOOTH and painted blue. I FK1000P the whole bumpercover, just remembering to be careful to do the THIN thing so I don`t end up with (excess) dried residue in the textured part. And I do more of a wipe-on-wipe-off application instead of letting it flash off per usual (I *always* do this on textured stuff of any kind). I can easily imagine somebody botching it up with too much product, but not a problem for me.

That "excess product residue stuck in a deep texture" is the only real issue I cant think people oughta watch out for. On that same Audi, I use Collinoite 845 on the *REALLY* rough-textured gravel-guarded underneath areas...just too deep a texture for any paste-product IMO.



Surly- Gee, I resemble that remark, huh? :D

Sure hope I didn`t give you a bum steer, but I doubt that. Just remember to do the thin *thin* *THIN* application and keep it off the trim..oughta go fine.
 
Well - reading this thread reminded me why 5 years ago when I briefly surfaced to do some product research before getting buried again that I was leaning towards BFWD - it`s a liquid. I was having trouble with P21s getting a really uniform thin layer of it on and sometimes I`d see high spots. I had always been a paste guy but was seeing the light about using a liquid. I was thinking of applying by PC but didn`t think I`d be able to do any decent job of applying a paste with PC

Hopefully I`m able to work with 1000p. I`m also planning to use it instead of fancy coating on my wheels and see how that goes.

I`m hoping it looks good on BMW Space Grey metallic - giving depth as well as gloss. (Originally said slate grey which is much darker than space grey - oops)

1/ any reason I can`t go over to of SF4000 or do I need an IPA wipe down (really hoping there isn`t an extra step and extra marring potential to deal wi)

2/ I`ve read that it seems that foam applicators would work better than microfibre. I`ve been using some OTC applicators that are MF on one side and foam on the other for all kinds of things. Is FK really picky or is there a particular foam applicator which really makes it easier to apply thinly but evenly? Didn`t think of ordering any applicators :(




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Best of Luck Surly if you prepare your paint you wont have problems i have been very happy with FK1000 and the guy who starts with A and ends with R will be a guiding light ! From GhostBusters ... "I looked at the Light - Ray" !
 
All Good Accumulator. I was just thinking... if I put a coat of SRP on top of my two coats of FK1000 then topped again with FK1000 probably two coats at weekly intervals if that would add any more bling? Then again this morning i chased a Unicorn through a Rainbow with a Leprechaun shouting out that I would never catch them !
 
I can see this, although I`ve never had an issue going straight from a wash with the Super slick and suds to applying FK on my Elantra.

I`ll play around with an IPA wipe next time (Migue - saw your comment - I will incorporate that as well. Thanks!)

skibik said:
Just a thought. I see you mentioned PB SSS shampoo which is I presume Super Slick and Suds. It appears by the description it has an oil in it that "encapsulates dirt", maybe this oil is leaving a residue behind affecting the FK1000p. My only suggestion would be is to use an IPA mix to strip it down even further and go from there. Again just a thought.
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DannyZZ- Nah, I`d never put anything on top of the FK1000P, and I`d expect the SRP to compromise it at least a bit if you tried that. With SRP topped with FK1000P, I`d just be washing for months and then adding one application of Fk1000P whenever I noticed the slightest change in beading/slickness/etc., which`d be LONG before there were any issues looks-wise. I`d probably just do that for at least two years, but hey that`s just me and I guess my vehicles are kinda pampered.

Seriously, I haven`t done anything but wash my FK1000P`ed vehicles for ages, didn`t even do any big post-winter cleanups. Just not necessary, especially since I started using Garry Dean`s IUDJ for my Drying Aid instead of FK425/FK146 (which I *did* really like using...just finally admitted to myself that the IUDJ is better).
 
I realize I`m a bit of an outlier on this one, but I don`t do IPA wipes before LSPing. IF...huge if... I want to do a pre-LSP stripping of polishing oils I use a product made for that as I`ve just never found IPA to be very effective.

Digger11- Heh heh, that`s been my experience too :D

Surly- SF4000 is a Menzerna product, right? Sorry, I don`t like/use/know from that line-up. But if there`s any concern about it messing with the FK1000P I`d do a wipedown with something that`s effective on the oils. SHOULDN`T cause any marring, but yeah it`s an extra step involving touching.

And similarly (gee, I`m not very helpful today :o ), I`ve just never found the application to be applicator-sensitive. I`ve used MF towels, a MF pad, regular foam Wax Applicator pads, you name it, and nothing ever cause a problem. I *DO* pretty much just use the round Foam Wax Applicator pads, guess I`ve always used the yellow ones but I have zero idea where/when I bought `em.

Guess my only advice would be to work small areas, taking as much time as it takes. Honestly, no foolin`....I just don`t get the cause(s) behind issues people apparently have with this sort of thing; I`ve always found LSPing to be Accumulator-proof, well...other than stressing myself whenever I apply coatings to wheels, thinking "oh no, I`m gonna get high-spots" and thus knocking myself out to avoid same.
 
I`ll be (finally!) adding some protection to my new Edge this week. The plan is to wash --> clay bar --> IronX decontaminate --> wash again --> McKee`s 37 360 AIO --> FK1000P.

Quick question, though. I also have 3D HD Polish. Would I be better off using it instead of the McKee`s 360? Just got to wondering if the McKee`s might interfere with the FK1000P somehow.
 
Ozzie - Out of an abundance of caution, I would go with HD polish instead of 360. Or, you might wait a few days (like until your next wash) to give time for the 360 to "cure". Or, try both and see! :)

Also, I would Iron-x before claying, should make the claying easier afterward. Have fun!
 
Thanks, Nick!

I`ll rearrange the order to IronX before clay. Since this car is only a month old, I think I`ll use the HD Polish instead of the 360.
 
OzzieMike said:
Thanks, Nick!

I`ll rearrange the order to IronX before clay. Since this car is only a month old, I think I`ll use the HD Polish instead of the 360.
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I`m just debating myself whether to Nanoskin or ironx first.

My theory is that ironx is for the embedded stuff that doesn`t remove mechanically thus mechanical removal should be attempted first. Plus ironx was introduced to do what clay couldn`t and go farther.... This notion was recently discussed in a wheel cleaning thread.

Otoh- if ironx can dissolve more instead of dragging it across the paint with a nanoskin maybe that`s a benefit.
 
I have nothing but theory to base this on, but your last statement is my reasoning to suggest doing the iron decontamination first. I`m sure either way is perfectly acceptable, but I would want to get everything off the paint I could first using as minimal contact as needed before I went to claying.

Surly said:
I`m just debating myself whether to Nanoskin or ironx first.

My theory is that ironx is for the embedded stuff that doesn`t remove mechanically thus mechanical removal should be attempted first. Plus ironx was introduced to do what clay couldn`t and go farther.... This notion was recently discussed in a wheel cleaning thread.

Otoh- if ironx can dissolve more instead of dragging it across the paint with a nanoskin maybe that`s a benefit.
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Otoh- if ironx can dissolve more instead of dragging it across the paint with a nanoskin maybe that`s a benefit...
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Now you`re talkin` :D See...keep thinking about this stuff, REALLY thinking, and some good ideas will come to you. That`s how I`d look at it too.

I`d do the chemical decontamination first so the only stuff that has to be mechanically removed is the stuff that genuinely requires that. I want to do the least amount of mechanical decontamination possible...maybe none at all!

When I ABC a vehicle, I only clay if it`s obvious that the chemicals aren`t cutting it by themselves. Seldom happens, so I seldom have to risk marring the vehicle during decontamination.

Gotta be quick around here...NickClark08 already said all that :D
 
Your response was much more clear - Surly, Accumulator summed my thinking up perfectly.

Accumulator said:
Now you`re talkin` :D See...keep thinking about this stuff, REALLY thinking, and some good ideas will come to you. That`s how I`d look at it too.

I`d do the chemical decontamination first so the only stuff that has to be mechanically removed is the stuff that genuinely requires that. I want to do the least amount of mechanical decontamination possible...maybe none at all!

When I ABC a vehicle, I only clay if it`s obvious that the chemicals aren`t cutting it by themselves. Seldom happens, so I seldom have to risk marring the vehicle during decontamination.

Gotta be quick around here...NickClark08 already said all that :D
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