FK1000p Beginner questions

I`ve never had *any* issues with FK1000P buffing residue on my MFs, it launders out just fine. I *do* spot-treat all my MFs with an APC though, so that might factor is.

One laundering challenge that does take a bit of doing is when I *apply* FK1000P via MF. Once it dries on that MF it`s *on there* so I have to APC-soak and scrub with a Denture Brush. Even then I sometimes see evidence that the FK1000P is still there (hydrophobic areas on that MF).

BUT, I`ve *never* had dried FK1000P mar paint, not once. I`ve even had an "oops!" or two where I grabbed the wrong applicator/MF and thought I probably did some damage because of dried residue from previously applying with that one, but nope, no problems at all. But I *do* use that ultra-thin approach so my idea of "contaminated with dried product" might be different from somebody else`s in the matter-of-degree sense. And speaking of which...

Manix- If you have that much LSP buff-off residue in your MFs, heh heh...IMO you might be utterly off-the-scale with regard to "too thick", like...I can`t *imagine*. I mean..I don`t get that problem when I *apply* via a MF and let it dry on there. When I FK1000P something big (Tahoe/Suburban-size) the buff-off MFs (note plural, despite my thin applications; I generally use small MFs) are not visibly contaminated with LSP residue, at least not to an obvious extent. Have to keep my MFs straight since the used ones don`t look soiled (that`s how I`ve had the "oops!")

Plus, it sounds like [whatever detergent] you`re using isn`t up to the job. The YMMV! thing *really* applies on this one, like you can`t believe...the diffs people experience are simply astounding...so/and you gotta find what works for *you*. Recently I was amazed by how well the Chemical Guys MF Detergent works, never thought to try any until I saw it on sale. Works MUCH better than I`d expected and I can be a MF Detergent Snob.

Aw gee, the above isn`t expressed very well, sounds like a scolding...sorry, don`t mean it that way. Heh heh, the thought occurs that no matter *how much* of a hassle the thin applications are, that ordeal has gotta be easier than what you`re going through by putting it on thicker. REALLY looking forward to hearing how it all goes if/when you do get it on there really thin...gee, you may even prove me wrong! (Nah, don`t expect that, but ya never know...)
 
silverfox said:
Apply very very very thin. You should have almost nothing to wipe off.
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I have a hard time getting it thin as I can`t seem to be sure if the area is covered if too thin, so I tend to apply it thick. I see now why people say this one can will last 10yrs. amazing that such a thin film can add protection.
However I`m yet to see the real world performance of FK1000p, only time will tell.
 
Accumulator said:
I`ve never had *any* issues with FK1000P buffing residue on my MFs, it launders out just fine. I *do* spot-treat all my MFs with an APC though, so that might factor is.

One laundering challenge that does take a bit of doing is when I *apply* FK1000P via MF. Once it dries on that MF it`s *on there* so I have to APC-soak and scrub with a Denture Brush. Even then I sometimes see evidence that the FK1000P is still there (hydrophobic areas on that MF).

BUT, I`ve *never* had dried FK1000P mar paint, not once. I`ve even had an "oops!" or two where I grabbed the wrong applicator/MF and thought I probably did some damage because of dried residue from previously applying with that one, but nope, no problems at all. But I *do* use that ultra-thin approach so my idea of "contaminated with dried product" might be different from somebody else`s in the matter-of-degree sense. And speaking of which...

Manix- If you have that much LSP buff-off residue in your MFs, heh heh...IMO you might be utterly off-the-scale with regard to "too thick", like...I can`t *imagine*. I mean..I don`t get that problem when I *apply* via a MF and let it dry on there. When I FK1000P something big (Tahoe/Suburban-size) the buff-off MFs (note plural, despite my thin applications; I generally use small MFs) are not visibly contaminated with LSP residue, at least not to an obvious extent. Have to keep my MFs straight since the used ones don`t look soiled (that`s how I`ve had the "oops!")

Plus, it sounds like [whatever detergent] you`re using isn`t up to the job. The YMMV! thing *really* applies on this one, like you can`t believe...the diffs people experience are simply astounding...so/and you gotta find what works for *you*. Recently I was amazed by how well the Chemical Guys MF Detergent works, never thought to try any until I saw it on sale. Works MUCH better than I`d expected and I can be a MF Detergent Snob.

Aw gee, the above isn`t expressed very well, sounds like a scolding...sorry, don`t mean it that way. Heh heh, the thought occurs that no matter *how much* of a hassle the thin applications are, that ordeal has gotta be easier than what you`re going through by putting it on thicker. REALLY looking forward to hearing how it all goes if/when you do get it on there really thin...gee, you may even prove me wrong! (Nah, don`t expect that, but ya never know...)
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Thanks Accumulator! I giggled at how thick I must be applying this stuff soo the can is gonna last me just a couple of years. I will have to experiment with detergents, soaps etc.

cheers
 
Manix said:
Thanks Accumulator! I giggled at how thick I must be applying this stuff soo the can is gonna last me just a couple of years...
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Heh heh, yeah...even if you go goofy-thick every time and layer frequently, it`s gonna last soooo long...

Which MF Detergent (or whether you even need anything special like that) seems to vary with water quality/washer/who-knows-what factors. And what you think`ll work great/not sure doesn`t always turn out that way! Man, I woulda bet money that my current Chemical Guys stuff would be [crappy] and I still look askance as all the suds it seems to produce (especially in the HE washer), but hey, the MFs are turning out great.

Specifically- the Chemical Guys stuff I`m liking is their Microfiber Wash+. I vaguely recall using another MF Detergent from them that didn`t work as well, so if anybody goes this route you might oughta take care to get the one you think you`re buying.
 
One additional tip I`ll add here as a long time user of FK100p. Applicator pad matters. I use the thick wide red ones and find that they work the best. I may only be able to get 1/4 of the pad with product, but it applies just fine and smooth. Over time the product will migrate across the applicator.

Small yellow foam applicators made the product roll, and created these little barrels that I would then drag and create half moons. You may not experience this, but I have and changing applicators was the way to go.

I just applied FK1000p on top of Poor Boys Black Hole, which was applied after polishing with Jescar Correcting Compound on a Honda that appears to have been regularly cleaned using a brush. They definately had a love affair with the snow scraper. The paint edges around the glass have been really abused by the scraping side and I had to wet sand a few spots to remove rust and use Dr ColorChip. Looks like they cleared snow all over using the brush side.

I applied the BH using a Flex 3401 with black pad on speed 2. Wiped when done and let sit for 24 hrs. Then I applied FK1000p using the yellow pad for 2 panels (and I don`t typically grab that pad), got annoyed and tried the Red. MUCH smoother.

NOTE TO SELF: Not sure the Black Hole step was worth the time after polishing the car, but oh well. Looks SUPER shiny. Jescar CC finished really really shiny using an orange pad that I skipped any Finishing Polish step.
 
nickclark08 said:
Jester, keep us updated on how the FK holds up over the Black Hole. I, for one, am super interested in this combo.
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I have this combo on my car, as well. I absolutely love the look, but the durability is where my concerns lie. On bare paint and on top FKs Foam Pad Glaze, it sits amazingly. When I topped Black Hole with FK1000P, I ran into *psuedo-holograms* which is most likely due to my time crunch, thus letting the Black Hole cure for about 10 minutes. We will see what the duribility is like.��

IMG_9971.jpg

Not the best photo, but this gives a slight idea.
 
TheMeanGreen said:
I have this combo on my car, as well. I absolutely love the look, but the durability is where my concerns lie. On bare paint and on top FKs Foam Pad Glaze, it sits amazingly. When I topped Black Hole with FK1000P, I ran into *psuedo-holograms* which is most likely due to my time crunch, thus letting the Black Hole cure for about 10 minutes.
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I ran into no application issues like Holograms, but I did apply BH for 1/2 car, wipe BH and left it for 24hrs before applying FK1000p. FK1000p was allowed to dry for 30 min then wiped, and hasn`t been outside except for a quick inspection yet.

I will add that the marks that the compound didn`t take out, were for the most part still too deep for BH to conceal. I don`t have a car with light swirls/love marks anymore so I can`t comment on that.
 
jester7677 said:
One additional tip I`ll add here as a long time user of FK100p. Applicator pad matters. I use the thick wide red ones and find that they work the best. I may only be able to get 1/4 of the pad with product, but it applies just fine and smooth. Over time the product will migrate across the applicator.

Small yellow foam applicators made the product roll, and created these little barrels that I would then drag and create half moons. You may not experience this, but I have and changing applicators was the way to go.

I just applied FK1000p on top of Poor Boys Black Hole, which was applied after polishing with Jescar Correcting Compound on a Honda that appears to have been regularly cleaned using a brush. They definately had a love affair with the snow scraper. The paint edges around the glass have been really abused by the scraping side and I had to wet sand a few spots to remove rust and use Dr ColorChip. Looks like they cleared snow all over using the brush side.

I applied the BH using a Flex 3401 with black pad on speed 2. Wiped when done and let sit for 24 hrs. Then I applied FK1000p using the yellow pad for 2 panels (and I don`t typically grab that pad), got annoyed and tried the Red. MUCH smoother.

NOTE TO SELF: Not sure the Black Hole step was worth the time after polishing the car, but oh well. Looks SUPER shiny. Jescar CC finished really really shiny using an orange pad that I skipped any Finishing Polish step.
Click to expand...

I just applied FK1000p with Black Hole underneath it this last weekend as well. I have a black car that has many pea size spots of clear coat etching and I was hoping Black hole would improve the appearance of those a bit. It didn`t do much for that problem but the combo does look nice on the paint in general. I was wondering whether this will reduce the longevity of FK so I only put BH on part of the hood. I didn`t get any holograms in my use. I am going to wash and apply another layer of FK1000p this weekend and continue to watch for longevity issues over the next few months.
 
jester7677 said:
One additional tip I`ll add here as a long time user of FK100p. Applicator pad matters. I use the thick wide red ones and find that they work the best....Small yellow foam applicators made the product roll, and created these little barrels that I would then drag and create half moons. You may not experience this, but I have and changing applicators was the way to go..
Click to expand...

See how that !YMMV! works out!?! I almost always use the small round yellow foam ones and they work fine for me. Just gotta see what`s right for *you*.
 
Along the same lines...some get the pseudo-holograms from [various causes] while others don`t...doesn`t surprise me.

I always let things sit/cure/whatever for a while before topping with/layering FK1000P just to be on the safe side.
 
Been using FK1000p for a couple of years over Klasse AIO I found 2 coats a couple of weeks apart after a wash or two lasted forever and looks great.

As an old time SG user, which recommends a slight spray of a detailer over the dried SG to remove the SG, I remove the FK100p using a SLIGHT spritz of FK425 to moisten the area after after it hazes over, and it made removal very easy. Don`t overdo here. I suppose UWWP or other waterless would work just as well.
 
valleyguy1 said:
Been using FK1000p for a couple of years over Klasse AIO I found 2 coats a couple of weeks apart after a wash or two lasted forever and looks great.

As an old time SG user, which recommends a slight spray of a detailer over the dried SG to remove the SG, I remove the FK100p using a SLIGHT spritz of FK425 to moisten the area after after it hazes over, and it made removal very easy. Don`t overdo here. I suppose UWWP or other waterless would work just as well.
Click to expand...

IMO, don`t wipe/dry/top FK1000p with anything for a few days if possible.

I like FK425 as well but I think FK1000p lasts longer if you leave it alone for a period of time. I used to do a once over of FK425 after removing FK1000p on my Audi, and just strait FK1000p on my Honda. I found the Honda had a naturally slicker finish longer, so now I do less and get more!
 
Interesting observation. I applied a coat of FK1000 to my wheels and barrels last June followed by a second coat a week later. Applied a third coat in late October for the winter. They had only been washed with car wash soap, no wheel cleaner since then. Put off my spring detail so it will be closer to the time I plan on trading the car in so polishing the wheels today. After a good wash treated all four wheels with IronX and there was absolutely no purple visible after five or so minutes. I must assume the FK1000 protected the wheels from brake dust contamination for a year (on a VW notorious for brake dust). Pretty amazing product!!!
 
valleyguy1 & jester7677- Hey, intersting topic (at least to me :D). I wonder if the use of FK425 does/not matter, I got the feeling it did and quit using it, but I never did any sort of proper test.

I don`t think I`d use anything else though...there *is* some sort of synergy between FK425 and FK1000P; when my little tin of FK1000P dried out, I was advised to use FK425 to rehydrate it and it worked fine. I was advised to *NOT* use FK146 instead, different stuff in that...and that makes me think that just any ol` QD/RW might not be a good idea.

I`ve never had a bit of trouble with IUDJ not playing nice with FK1000P, but I don`t use `em at the same time for fear something might go haywire at the wrong moment.

But hey, OTOH...this discussion gets me thinking how when I rejuvenated FK1000P with the FK425, it worked so well that I became a fanboy for the stuff! Hmmm...adding lots of FK425 to the mix sure didn`t compromise anything that time!

One thing though, I`m always leery of comparing how the same stuff works on different vehicles...or even just different panels/surfaces. NOTHING lasts long on the rear bumpercover of my wife`s A8, but zero such issues on the identical panel of my S8. And I`ve had vehicles where nothing lasted long on the whole thing, never did figure it out.

pwaug- Hey, thanks TONS for posting about that lack of contamination on the FK1000`ed wheels! That goes hand-in-hand with the way my vehicles wearing the stuff simply don`t need a decon, at least not badly enough for me to do it.
 
pwaug said:
Interesting observation. I applied a coat of FK1000 to my wheels and barrels last June followed by a second coat a week later. Applied a third coat in late October for the winter. They had only been washed with car wash soap, no wheel cleaner since then. Put off my spring detail so it will be closer to the time I plan on trading the car in so polishing the wheels today. After a good wash treated all four wheels with IronX and there was absolutely no purple visible after five or so minutes. I must assume the FK1000 protected the wheels from brake dust contamination for a year (on a VW notorious for brake dust). Pretty amazing product!!!
Click to expand...
I coated my car and wheels with FK1000P about two months ago, and its ability to shed brake dust is astonishing. The wheels stay cleaner much longer, and whatever brake dust does collect rinses off easily.
 
Accumulator said:
valleyguy1 & jester7677- Hey, intersting topic (at least to me :D). I wonder if the use of FK425 does/not matter, I got the feeling it did and quit using it, but I never did any sort of proper test.

I don`t think I`d use anything else though...there *is* some sort of synergy between FK425 and FK1000P; when my little tin of FK1000P dried out, I was advised to use FK425 to rehydrate it and it worked fine. I was advised to *NOT* use FK146 instead, different stuff in that...and that makes me think that just any ol` QD/RW might not be a good idea.

I`ve never had a bit of trouble with IUDJ not playing nice with FK1000P, but I don`t use `em at the same time for fear something might go haywire at the wrong moment.

But hey, OTOH...this discussion gets me thinking how when I rejuvenated FK1000P with the FK425, it worked so well that I became a fanboy for the stuff! Hmmm...adding lots of FK425 to the mix sure didn`t compromise anything that time!

One thing though, I`m always leery of comparing how the same stuff works on different vehicles...or even just different panels/surfaces. NOTHING lasts long on the rear bumpercover of my wife`s A8, but zero such issues on the identical panel of my S8. And I`ve had vehicles where nothing lasted long on the whole thing, never did figure it out.
Click to expand...

I think the key when applying FK1000p is not to wipe it with any more bite to the towel than just the towel itself. It still likes to cure. A damp MF towel with FK425 has more bite, so I`m going to avoid using FK425 until the first post wax wash.

After that, when drying with MF waffle weave, I`m giving that towel a few sprays of FK425.

I haven`t been able to bring myself to dip an applicator that has been on wheels into my tin of FK1000p. I have 1z Glanz Wax in liquid form I use for that. Or left over turtle wax. May need to give Glanz Wax another shot. Did love the touch of Carnuba in it.
 
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