FK1000p Beginner questions

M

Manix

New member
The product description says this has UV protection, considering how thin asian factory clear coats are along with giving the top
a cut & polish with D/A. Would the FK1000p UV protection help much? Or is it just an exaggeration? Some reviews say this stuff is like an extra clear coat.


After reading a couple of online reviews, I`m trying to decide whether one coat is all thats needed or if 2-3 is really better?
More coats sound like longer lasting protecive film, but not really sure if this is true.


And is letting the haze sit on the paint over night then buffing off of any real benefit vs just buffing off shortly after it hazes over?


thanks
 
It`s pretty awesome stuff, short of a coating. Self cleaning, durability, and protection against bug and bird etching are its strong suits.

Accumulator should post shortly, but here`s my short take:

make sure your paint surface is prepped (clayed and polished as needed). I apply one coat (THIN is key with FK). Wait for it to haze where you get a clean finger swipe, but I wouldn`t leave it on there overnight. ~15 minutes should be plenty depending on temp and humidity (don`t do this in sunlight).

The second coat coat is worth it, and does add more durability in my experience. FK needs some cure time (24 hours), so you can wait a day, then put the second coat on the next day if you would like. What I do is just wait a week until my next wash and then do the 2nd coat at that time.

Hope this helps.
 
Boden said:
Accumulator should be along in 3... 2... 1...

;)
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You guys also forget that I push this stuff as well, short of a coating, there is nothing like it. UV protection, pretty chemical resistant, long lasting, inexpensive, bird bomb resistant, easy to clean, mineral deposit resistant.


OP, multiple coats at a time aren`t really needed. Apply one coat after decon or polish, drive the car for a week and put another coat on, if you want. There is not much sense in waiting short times between multiple coats. You *can* leave FK1000P on the paint over night, but make sure that you have a lot of MF`s on hand, because you will need them all to buff the finish to a *psuedo-hologram* free shine.
 
TheMeanGreen said:
You guys also forget that I push this stuff as well, short of a coating, there is nothing like it. UV protection, pretty chemical resistant, long lasting, inexpensive, bird bomb resistant, easy to clean, mineral deposit resistant.


OP, multiple coats at a time aren`t really needed. Apply one coat after decon or polish, drive the car for a week and put another coat on, if you want. There is not much sense in waiting short times between multiple coats. You *can* leave FK1000P on the paint over night, but make sure that you have a lot of MF`s on hand, because you will need them all to buff the finish to a *psuedo-hologram* free shine.
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I agree, I`ve used FK BWM101 on my boat for years.
 
Manix- Numerous comparisons always yielded the same results for me: More layers are definitely better for both durability and etching resistance and it wasn`t a subtle diff by a long shot. Just don`t layer it *too soon* lest your risk (just a risk, but it`s a biggie) pseudo-holograms from Solvent Action.

Or at least refresh the single application long before it really dies.

Note that waxes used for Mold Release applications pretty much *have to* layer.

The nice thing is that FK1000P is OK with fewer layers than something like KSG.

(IF anybody has had differing experiences regarding the benefit/not of multiple applications of FK1000P I`d like to hear about `em, especially the testing protocol. NO, no...not challenging/arguing/etc. just very curious. YMMV always applies with this stuff IMO.)
 
Looking at all those "Accumulator oughta...." posts makes me :o a bit, but I don`t mind fanboying something that works so well for me.

IME FK1000P is, perhaps surprisingly, quite compatible with all sorts of underlying products.
 
I am by no means an expert on this stuff but I have used it over the last 4 to 5 years on my Camaro(actually I haven`t used it in the last year). I thought I read when I first used it that waiting more than a few hours between coats was all that was needed. When I used it I have done mainly 2 coats a day apart, too much work to get 2 coats on and off in one day. I did try 3 coats one year but think the that coat was a waste of time as it didn`t seem to improve anything. My thoughts on 2 coats is for coverage purposes, to make sure the entire car has been covered and no spots were missed which is highly doubtful when I finished the first coat but peace of mind. I have always had a rough time time getting it off but found that I likely been putting it on too thick and waiting too long before removing. Just my thoughts.
 
Accumulator said:
Looking at all those "Accumulator oughta...." posts makes me :o a bit, but I don`t mind fanboying something that works so well for me.

IME FK1000P is, perhaps surprisingly, quite compatible with all sorts of underlying products.
Click to expand...

I`ve often wondered how it would work on top of PB black hole or white diamond.
 
06vrss- IIRC, people have said it works fine, at least over Black Hole.

skibik- No added durability from the third coat in your experience? Not arguing, just curious.

Yeah, the Official Line is that you can layer it promptly and Ketch always said I was doing it wrong if I had any issues with that. But some of his suggestions Re tweaking my technique weren`t gonna happen so I just wait.

And yeah#2, I strongly suspect you`re putting it on too thick if buffing off isn`t really REALLY easy. OK, not Souveran-easy, but it shouldn`t even get your attention. FWIW, I always fog the surface with my breath while buffing it off...do that with pretty much every LSP I use and IMO it makes things even easier.

nickclark08- Heh heh...yeah, "vocal" rather than "authoritative" ;)

And as I try to emphasize, I DID NOT expect to be impressed with the stuff; my sample tin sat unused for years before I finally tried it, and by then it was awfully hard/dried-out (talk about a PIA LSP to use), so for it to make such a positive impression on me is a genuine testament to how great the stuff is. I mean, sheesh...between 476S and KSG I was all set on my daily-driver LSPs, or so I thought.
 
Accumulator, as for the 3rd coat I had seen no extended durability. It was my winter LSP for the Camaro(drive it year `round) put it on in September and it would last I guess about 4 to 5 months. I can`t say is there was much protection left at 5 months even though it seemed to bead was likely just the clear coat. To help it along when I would run it through the touch-less car wash I would add the wax cycle after a few months in to the winter whether it helped or not I don`t know. If memory serves correct I did the 3rd coat try the second winter I had the car so I only had 1 winter before that to compare it to and 1 winter after. I never used it last winter as I kind of missed my warm days(weekend) in the fall to apply it and after the previous uses of being so hard to work with I gave up on it. I even apply it a few times with my GG 6" with success but still I know I was applying it to thick. To use the machine I used a piece of plastic carved from an ice cream pail(I had no plastic knifes handy) and would scrape a ribbon from the can and smear it on a wax pad and go to town. I know now that I applied to often to the pad, that and if you wait too long it ends up like the old days as a kid trying to remove the old Turtle Wax Hard Shell paste.

Last summer I began using up some of the BFCS that I acquired and since I missed my opportunity with the FK this last fall I applied a couple coats of the BF but it didn`t make it two months into the winter.
 
skibik- Thanks for taking the time/effort to explain it so well! I`m struck by:

-how it just doesn`t last for you the way it does for me
-that the third coat didn`t add a few extra months
-that it`s that tough to transfer from the tin to the pad
-that it`s so hard to buff off

Wonder whether the touchless factors in big-time and/or whether applying a thickish coat by machine makes for more solvent-action. I`m just *SOOO* extreme about the "thin application, applied very gently" thing that it might make *me* the wildcard here.

I even added a *fourth* coat of it to some wheels and the `93 Audi last time, and I sure don`t do this stuff unless there`s a big payoff :D

That comparison to TW..in my case it was the orig. Simonize...makes me think that *something`s* haywire though...I`ll apply to a whole large vehicle, let it sit for a few hours if something comes up, and it buffs right off just *that* easily.

Well...more proof of how !YMMV! always applies, huh?!?
 
I thought getting the amount of time out of the protection to me for the area I live in was quite impressive. I still had a little bit of beading left in February or March but nothing like it was when freshly applied. The paint surely didn`t feel as smooth or slick either so I just took it to be about the end of the protection. I also attribute this to the fact I live in northern Minnesota where every time it snows we lay down salt. My car usually turns white and it is on it for up to a few weeks so that in itself I would guess takes a toll on longevity.

I did figure out the last time I used it that of course I was putting it on a little thick but I was also waiting too long before removing it. I wasn`t getting it the point it was flashing off or just after it hazed over. I woulf wait until it was completely hazed and that I think is why it was a bear to get off.

I had the same problem with Wolfgang Fuzion. I applied it I don`t think i read the instructions completely. I did apply thin but instead of doing a panel at a time I did like half the car. Maybe my idea of thin maybe wasn`t thin but that stuff is not friendly at all when left on for too long either.
 
skibik- Yeah, your winters are similar to ours, and my vehicles regularly get so nasty that you genuinely can`t tell what color they are. Takes well over an hour to clean the salt off the undercarriage...

I dunno about FK1000P (or any other LSP I`ve ever used) being tough to buff off because it sat so long. If I can let it go for hours with no problem..and I do mean *hours*...then I dunno why just the time it takes to do the rest of the vehicle would be a problem.

Maybe it *does* all relate to "how thin is thin?" Even on dark colors, you sure can`t readily see my applications before I buff them off, I never apply LSPs of any kind so thick that they`re obviously visible in the sense of "look at the dried wax on that hood". The average layman would ask "what wax? where?.."

I even let Souveran sit until I`ve done the whole vehicle most of the time, get a bit more durability that way.

EDIT: Eh, the above sorta sounds like a lecture, and I don`t mean it that way. Sounds like you`re still getting good results with it, and making the application a huge PIA could be a lousy trade-off for a little better durability, huh?
 
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