I`ve been wondering about this kind of thing myself....I don`t think I ever got a response when I asked how this is handled on things like motorcycles where the coating is sprayed on with an airbrush to get it into tight spots.
Guess it`s mostly just intellectual curiosity on my part as I only coat wheels and those are easy enough to polish (HD Polish works fine for me).
Well, will just kinda wing it and see how it goes. When this car was originally polished/coated last year it was clayed but I was unaware of Iron-X type decon so it never got that. Not totally sure where to fit Iron-X regimen into this re-coating but currently (which I`m sure I`ll change later) thinking is perhaps:
1. Wash
2. Clay (yay Nanoskin!)
3. M205 on white polishing pad (likely Flex) for half of hood
4. Flood hood with water, check behavior (although not a true indicator of absolute coating removal may be as good as I can get)
5. M205 on orange cutting pad if #4 proves completely uneventful/unresponsive
6. Flood/check hood again
7. If I believe coating is removed, complete car with whatever combo worked. If coating not removed, sell car and buy new one to start fresh.
8. Rinse car
9. Iron-X
10. Wash/Nanoskin again
11. Polish with Rupes 15/Mini, either Sonax Perfect Finish or Rupes Keramik Gloss Fine Gel Polish on yellow Rupes pad
12. Polish with Rupes 15/Mini, Rupes Diamond Ultra Fine Gel Polish on white Rupes pad
13. Panel Wipe/Paint Prep
14. Apply coating
2 vehicles at likely different ends of the paint spectrum (Hard vs. soft) need this done. In addition to the black 2016 Subaru WRX, our black 2004 Corvette is switching coatings (from Spring 2016 applied WG Uber Ceramic) as well although the WG Uber is in much better shape on Vette as it`s seen not nearly the daily/winter duty as the Subaru.
Always an adventure...