Use the Fk1000P in place of a sealant. While it`s called a "High Temperature Wax" in reality it`s just a sealant in paste form.
No need for underlying KSG. Consider that my previous sealant approach was ~6 layers of KSG. I replaced that regimen with 1-2 layers of FK1000P because it provides at least as much protection for at least as long and also sheds contamination *better* and, IMO looks *much* better. And two layers (one initial application, the second after the next regularly-scheduled wash) is a *LOT* easier and more convenient than six layers applied over the course of six consecutive days (which gave me the best KSG results, hands-down).
And FK1000P is easier to apply than KSG for most people (note that most people use a zillion times more KSG than is needed; one ounce is way more than enough for a Suburban). Eh, most people use more of *every* LSP than they need to...IMO if you can see it on the paint before you buff it off you probably used too much.
IME there are only two benefits that KSG has over other (conventional, i.e., non-coating) LSPs:
1) the way it can, *if heavily layered and I don`t mean just 3-4*, provide a rather thick (relatively speaking) "plasticy build-film" which can impart a *VERY SLIGHT* physical barrier between the paint and the environment. For that reason I continue use it on high-gloss exterior black plastics.
2) similarly, it`s easy to use, and effective, on textured exterior plastic/rubber trim. Apply it *VERY THIN* using the wipe-on-wipe-off method (don`t let it flash before you buff it off). Other LSPs can be used this way too (I`ve done it with FK1000P), but the chance of an "!oops!" is so great that, well...don`t try this at home, kids (major exception being Collinite 845, used as per the KSG it`s idiot proof).
Gotta try Ron`s PBBH under FK1000P some time...but FK1000P lasts so long that it`ll be ages before I reLSP anything.