Durrmaid carpet shampooer - head is too big?

[DutrowLLC]

A few months ago I bought two of the expensive heated Durrmaid carpet extractors for a 2 of the detailers that work for me. Before we were using the cheap bissell little greens. I thought I was making a definitive upgrade to our equipment and they would be happy with me for providing them equipment that would make their jobs easier.

They`ve both since reported back to me that they like the bissell little greens a lot better because the shampooer heads are smaller (they can get into corners and under things better) and they are overall easier to use. I was surprise at this since the Durrmaid has much better suction and puts out more water that is hotter. I though this would allow them to clean the carpets faster.

Is there a different shampooing head we should be using with the Durrmaid? Or is there a different way we should be using the Durrmaid? Is there a different shampooer we should be looking at? Or is there merit to sticking with the heated Bissell Little Green who`s drawbacks are that it is weak and must be replaced once or twice a year?

Would love to hear other`s opinions on this topic. Thanks so much!

 

[Stokdgs]

I purchased a Mytee HP60 Extractor around 10 years ago and it has been a great, great, machine...

It came with 1 stainless steel tool that looks like the Durrmaid one I saw in a CG picture.
The stainless steel tools and that plastic one that came with your machines all have the same basic shape..

I don`t use the stainless steel tools for shampooing anything, I don`t run a shampoo in my water tank either.. I prefer to spray the area with a good, low foaming apc, brush it in, then use the tool to rinse and extract..

Mytee says to go 2 passes in extraction only to every 1 pass you do in rinsing..

I rinse carefully just as much as I need to, and then extract a lot more to get as much gunk out of the carpeting as possible within the timeframe I have to work with..

If you do this really well, the dried, really clean carpets will let the vehicle smell really "clean" without anything else - because it IS really clean down there... No more of those stupid little "scent trees" hanging all over the dang place..

Your guys have to learn to how make that tool work better by turning it sometimes upside down and sideways - for the carpeted areas on the sides of the console between the front seats, for example..

It is all about working with the Angle of the tool, fitting it against the carpet so the angle works better for you and not against you..

For example, that long area of carpeting on the sides of the center console, between the seats..
Hard to get the tool there and sweep down..
So, you turn it upside down and make vertical passes from the bottom up and it works better because the angle is no longer hindering your access..

And you can use the tool sometimes going horizontally across that vertical area too..

Your guys will have to figure out how to make this tool work and it will work better for you..

I have 3 stainless steel tools like the one you have but stainless.
The differences are small but important..
1 has the nozzle jet covered so it doesn`t spray very wide and hit stuff when it`s close to the ground
You don`t want water shooting everywhere in a tight space like the Interior.. Would be fine when doing the floor mats outside the car..

The other tool you really need to have is the stainless steel Long Crevice Extraction tool, that has the jet inside the tool..
This tool while not having the big wide space of the other tool you have is Invaluable in getting in places that the other tool cannot get..

Like, under the pedals and that side of the carpeted console next to the accelerator pedal.. That side is hard to get to with anything else because of height limitations and space limitations, right ??

And that impossible area Behind the pedals as high as you want to go up the firewall

The crevice tool will get in there and all those tight places or not so tight places where your other tool cannot go..

This crevice extractor tool will also work great in that really tight space between the front seats and the carpeted console from the front and back side of the seat.. And under the seat...

I change from the regular upholstery tool you and I have to the crevice tool all the time when I Detail interiors, because I want to get every speck of dirt out of every square inch of the interior floor..

One more important thing -- this long stainless steel crevice tool has a lot of metal parts at the top of it, so be careful when using it that you don`t rub them hard on something plastic and scratch it, ok ??
Good Luck !
Dan F

 

[Stokdgs]

DutrowLLC --
Here is another bit of advice --

With your clear plastic extraction tool, you can visually see the water coming up from the carpets when extracting, right??

And you stop extracting that section when you no longer see water being pulled out, and you feel it with your hand and make sure it is dry or pretty dry, correct ??

So how do you do this with a solid stainless steel tool ??? As you extract, you put one of your hands on the Top of the flat part of the tool, and as you extract moisture, it will get really Cold as the water is pulled past it into the hose...

You keep extracting that section until the tool top is no longer cold and you have pretty much extracted all the moisture out of that area..

Repeat until done...
Check often with your bare hand to insure its dry...

One more thing - get some wide long velcro strips - some come with a closure on one end like a belt, and velcro together the high-pressure water hose and the vacuum hose together, all the way back to the Extractor..
This will keep the hoses more neatly together and hopefully easier to manage...
I have worn out those velcro strips over the past decade but it sure helps keep all those hoses neatly together and easier to manage inside the vehicle...
Dan F

 

[Accumulator]

I put different nozzles on my Century when I need to get into tight spots. Besides the Crevice Tool, I often use a Bissell nozzle, which gets where I want it and offers great suction because of its small opening. No, I can`t spray with it on there, and I had to cobble up an adaptor to make it fit the extractors hose-end, but I bet I use the Bissell nozzle more than anything else. I spray with the Century`s setup and then switch nozzles to extract.

 

[EXPDetailing]

[h=3]Mytee Dry 8400DX Upholstery Tool Bi-Directional[/h]

 

[Stokdgs]

[h=3]Mytee Dry 8400DX Upholstery Tool Bi-Directional[/h]

EXPDetailing - thanks for the info on the 8400DX tool -
I found a video of some guy using it.
He had the regular stainless steel upholstery tool but with an exposed nozzle instead of a covered nozzle like I use, and he didn`t really get how to use the tool backwards for example, and of course, it didn`t work very well for him.. He said it was a terrible tool..

He liked this fancy $499.00 tool a lot and demo`d it on a piece of carpeting on the floor of his garage, where, actually, any tool will work great because the surface is flat and there are no restrictions to get in the way..

He showed it in his car and because its a more flat angle tool it looks like it would get into more places, but didnt actually demo it there - it could have used it...

I`m not sure I like a tool that just dribbles hot water out - not sure why they would design it to do that in the first place..

So, this guy has to use a Tornador gun with solution, hooked up to an air compressor, to first blast the solution into the carpet piece on the floor and then use that $499.00 tool to dribble water out and suck it all up...

If this new fancy tool works by dribbling water out and you have to now add an extra step of using the Tornador gun/soap application, why not just get the way less expensive stainless upholstery tool with a cover over the nozzle like I have and save $499.00 and an extra step?

And its plastic - for $499.00...
How many professional carpet cleaners/floor cleaners have you ever seen using plastic tools?? Yeah, none...
Use it a year and I believe that it will be cracked or broken and that is not even from dropping it accidentally..
I think it should be advertised as the Mytee Dribbler Tool...

Then he complained about the hot hose connector when that model Mytee which looks like my HP60 comes with a long, thick black foam sleeve that goes over that hot water metal coupling, so it wont burn you... Guess he forgot to slide it on the hose??? Funny...

I don`t know - I think my old stainless tools can still get all the dirt out of any vehicle out there just fine..
Dan F

 

[DutrowLLC]

Ok, so I called Dennis who owns Durrmaid to see if he could offer any insight.

He said that the spray nozzle it comes with is detachable so you can switch out a low-flow nozzle for doing the seats. He e-mailed me some pictures and sure enough I checked the one I have it it has this head.

He also pointed out that you can get a crevice tool for it (I think these run about $130).

He also said that Durrmaid and Mytee use the same supplier so shampoo heads that fit one should fit the other.

Stokdgs:
I kind of see what you mean, $300 seems expensive for a plastic tool (I didn`t see the $499 price, they seem to be $300 online). Their markup is probably pretty high since their volume is probably low. I`m not sure I want to spend $1200 to give one of these to each of the detailers that work here then have the tools break in a year. I watched the same video as you did, that guy is certainly biased since he is the one selling the tool. That being said I`d probably buy 1 or 2 to test out if the price was in line with the other tools that are for sale (Like $100-$130 instead of $300).

I see why he designed it to dribble - it has to do with his method. He doesn`t want to blast the seats with spray because he says that leaves "tiger marks" - which we all know are terrible. When he does want to blast, he uses the Tornador gun with the air compressor. Not sure how well that would work for a mobile company like we are though. Gotta put all that crap in the truck and pull it out each time.

Where did you buy the tools you that you use now?

Also, have you ever used the Bissle Little Green? I ask because I`m having a lot of trouble fathoming why all three guys that I asked who work for my company seem to so strongly prefer the Little Green. I remember when I detailed years ago, I thought it was way under powered. But these guys have years of experience. I`m trying to figure out if they are just stuck in their ways or they know something I don`t.

Accumulator:
What is the advantage of using the Bissle Little Green head with the carpet extractor as opposed to just using your shop vac since you aren`t spraying when using the little green head? Also, what attachment(s) did you use to adapt it (if you can remember)?


P.S. This is the image Dennis sent me of the detachable nozzle. I checked mine and it indeed does come right off with a push and half-twist.

 

[Stokdgs]

DutrowLLC -
I have never seen a professional upholstery tool with a plastic nozzle ! All I have are brass nozzle tools...

Here is a perfect video on the different tools from the people I purchased my Mytee HP60 from over 10 years ago --
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVM50H5yPvw

The Upholstery tool I purchased from them is the one that has the "SplashGuard" cover over the nozzle underneath,, so I have zero problems using it inside a vehicle.. no side spray, no - whatever those tiger-marks are supposed to be - no problems...
He will show you my stainless upholstery tool with the SplashGuard shield underneath it that covers the nozzle..

They also sold me a Long Stainless Crevice Tool with the Internal Nozzle, just inside the end of it, so again, no problem spraying where you are aiming ever...
And the same moisture test -- put it on a wet section, let it extract, it will be cold at the bottom until it gets all the moisture out and then it will change temps...

I move the Crevice Tool all over a section to rinse and extract just like I do the standard Upholstery tools and it works great.. It is especially good on that edge of the seat carpeting that faces the door edge when opened, where it dips down..

And along the seam between the door sills and the carpeting - this tool gets all that dirt out of there too..

And the foot rest place - its too narrow for a regular tool but the crevice tool used horizontally or vertically on the foot rest, that narrow space on either side of it, and the bottom where it meets the carpeting - the crevice tool gets everything out of there perfectly..

I don`t know why your guys want to use a little flimsy, not very powerful at all - Bissell tool compared to a professional stainless tool.. Perhaps they like the more ergonomic (?) shape and find it easier to use ?

I think after a while of pressing down hard on those tools to get as much in (rinse) and out (extract), that they will crack and/or break and you will have to replace them anyway...

What is the quality of extracting = deep cleaning - the carpeting with this tool, compared to using a stainless tool ?? Does it matter to your Clients ? Your bottom line ??

The Durrmaid psi and water lift specs are not as high as my Mytee HP60 specs, so perhaps the plastic tools are better suited for it?

Well, in any event, please when you get a moment, watch this video from Steambrite and the guy will explain a few tools there that I have..

Again, they also sell a Long stainless Crevice Tool with the internal nozzle, which I have used a zillion times, and absolutely love it for getting into all the places nothing else will get...

Im now thinking, your guys have to really hurry and dont want to have to change tools out, etc.; get in and get out as quickly as possible, so that is perhaps why they dont want to change out the Bissell tool ???
DanF

 

[Fast Eddie]

EXPDetailing - thanks for the info on the 8400DX tool -
I found a video of some guy using it.
He had the regular stainless steel upholstery tool but with an exposed nozzle instead of a covered nozzle like I use, and he didn`t really get how to use the tool backwards for example, and of course, it didn`t work very well for him.. He said it was a terrible tool..

He liked this fancy $499.00 tool a lot and demo`d it on a piece of carpeting on the floor of his garage, where, actually, any tool will work great because the surface is flat and there are no restrictions to get in the way..

He showed it in his car and because its a more flat angle tool it looks like it would get into more places, but didnt actually demo it there - it could have used it...

I`m not sure I like a tool that just dribbles hot water out - not sure why they would design it to do that in the first place..

So, this guy has to use a Tornador gun with solution, hooked up to an air compressor, to first blast the solution into the carpet piece on the floor and then use that $499.00 tool to dribble water out and suck it all up...

If this new fancy tool works by dribbling water out and you have to now add an extra step of using the Tornador gun/soap application, why not just get the way less expensive stainless upholstery tool with a cover over the nozzle like I have and save $499.00 and an extra step?

And its plastic - for $499.00...
How many professional carpet cleaners/floor cleaners have you ever seen using plastic tools?? Yeah, none...
Use it a year and I believe that it will be cracked or broken and that is not even from dropping it accidentally..
I think it should be advertised as the Mytee Dribbler Tool...

Then he complained about the hot hose connector when that model Mytee which looks like my HP60 comes with a long, thick black foam sleeve that goes over that hot water metal coupling, so it wont burn you... Guess he forgot to slide it on the hose??? Funny...

I don`t know - I think my old stainless tools can still get all the dirt out of any vehicle out there just fine..
Dan F

I got to try one of these Mytee Dry tools and it works surprisingly well. It has a bunch of jets and doesn`t dribble any water out, it sprays like a mofo when in contact with fabric. They are $299 (at most places) and probably worth it for people that do a lot of upholstery cleaning as they work really well. I thought they looked like a gimmick until I tried one.

 

[Stokdgs]

FastEddie -
Oh good! Glad it works better than the guy in the video was doing with it..
Since the nozzle is inside, then that makes it work really precise..
I checked back - the higher price is with all the hose and stuff, perhaps they have it discounted then?
That is always a good thing..
Dan F

 

[Fast Eddie]

It`s retails for $349 direct from Mytee:
8400DX Mytee Dry? Upholstery Tool - Mytee Products, Inc.

but a little searching you can get it for less.
At the end of the day it still is plastic, and like you stated, I prefer stainless tools and have a mix of about 7 or so stainless tools from different manufactures. I do a ton of interior details and need something that can hold up so still holding out buying the mytee tool. Plus I don`t know how well, in the real world, it would work on cars with all the complex angles etc.

 

[Stokdgs]

It`s retails for $349 direct from Mytee:
8400DX Mytee Dry? Upholstery Tool - Mytee Products, Inc.

but a little searching you can get it for less.
At the end of the day it still is plastic, and like you stated, I prefer stainless tools and have a mix of about 7 or so stainless tools from different manufactures. I do a ton of interior details and need something that can hold up so still holding out buying the mytee tool. Plus I don`t know how well, in the real world, it would work on cars with all the complex angles etc.

FastEddie -
Yes, I know Exactly where you are coming from..
I have found that if I am really innovative about how I use either the regular stainless upholstery tool AND the long stainless crevice tool, I can do anything...

And if I ever run into something that I cant quite reach with those tools, my VX5000 Steamer with the single hole steamer tool will absolutely rock that spot leaving very little moisture to boot..

I know what part of the world you live in !
Years ago when my Dad was alive, he would fly to NorCal from Texas and I would drive him to Cambria where his brother lived and they would spend a week going to play golf up by SanLuis...
Then I would go back down there and pick him up and drive him back to NorCal and put him on the airplane..
We did this little 617 x 2 mile round trip for years..
I always loved the Cambria area - it so much cooler there than other parts of the Coast south of it...
Had a few friends whose kids went to Cal Poly too...
Dan F

 

[Accumulator]

Also, have you ever used the Bissle Little Green? I ask because I`m having a lot of trouble fathoming why all three guys that I asked who work for my company seem to so strongly prefer the Little Green. I remember when I detailed years ago, I thought it was way under powered. But these guys have years of experience. I`m trying to figure out if they are just stuck in their ways or they know something I don`t...

I`ve had a few LGMs. They`re light and easy to manipulate and they can get things surprisingly dry due to the narrow gap in the nozzles. Eh, I bet those guys just find it user-friendly due to the weight and the hose being very flexible.

Accumulator:
What is the advantage of using the Bissle Little Green head with the carpet extractor as opposed to just using your shop vac since you aren`t spraying when using the little green head? Also, what attachment(s) did you use to adapt it (if you can remember)?

The Century has better suction than my shop vacs, is already out and in-use (I use the spray for the first part of the work), and it`s easy to switch back-and-forth between the nozzles. I don`t want to bother getting out/putting away another piece of equipment for a job that`ll only take a few minutes (only do my own vehicles, never get very dirty inside). Guess it`s just a matter of what goes on at my place and might not be right for anybody else, let alone a Pro shop.

The adaptor I made was fashioned from a conical shop vac nozzle IIRC. Cut to length, bigger end fits the Century`s hose, smaller end fits the Bissell nozzle. Friction-fit, on/off in a moment, a little awkward to hold/use but no biggie and it speeds up the "get it dry" immeasurably compared to those big-slot nozzles, which just don`t draw enough water IME.

Before I wised up and started doing my own (home) rugs and carpets, I always wondered why Pro Carpet Cleaners left things so wet. Now I figure it`s because of the nozzles on their extractors. Mine turn out the same way if I use the Century nozzles only (same setup many Pros use), but come out quite dry if I go back over everything with the Bissell nozzle (yeah, that`s a huge job in a large carpeted room...how much do ya care and all that).

 

[Stokdgs]

I think the carpet cleaner guys just don`t spend enough time - Extracting - all the soap mixture they shot into your carpeting, and sometimes they probably use too much of it anyway...
It always takes longer to Extract than to wet the surfaces, and of course, the thicker, deeper the carpets in the house, the longer it should take to remove as much water as possible..
These guys never spend enough time extracting...
I agree that certain tool shapes will work better for that extracting job, but when was the last time you ever saw a carpet cleaner change the tool to extract? Yeah, I have never seen one do that either...
Glad you found a way to speed that up for your needs !
DanF

 

[Accumulator]

Stokdgs- Yeah, just another case where I`m far more satisfied with my own efforts than those of the "professionals". And yeah, there was always an element of "just trying to get it done quickly". Funny thing is, it doesn`t take me all that long to do it to my satisfaction. (Living in a woods + two big active dogs = frequent extracting anyhow, even that pricey Century quickly paid for itself.)

I`ve posted before how, heh heh.. the place that did our Oriental Rugs said that they use "special Pro products", so when the manager turned his back I went into their shop and found that they had the *exact* same stuff that I have! Same model of Century extractor, same Cyclo for scrubbing, and the same ChemSpec products. And the guys I saw working that day sure weren`t doing things as meticulously as I do

I too almost always just put clear water in my extractors, though someday I`ll probably switch to a genuine Rinse Agent and see if it makes any difference. Only times I want to run chemicals through it is when I actually need to inject it deep into whatever I`m cleaning, and that`s very, VERY rare.

 

[nothingface5384]

Can you use this tool on other brand extractors, or just the Mytee?