Steamer for removing a yellowed PPF?

[Angus]

This spring I'm going to help a buddy with a full correction on his Audi TT - including removing it's tired 9yr old yellowing clear bra:

From what I've been reading, using a steamer + plastic razor blades is the best way to remove aging PPF's. While I don't think I can convince my buddy to buy a nice Vapamore, Mytee, or Dupray steamer from Autopia - this McCulloch model on Amazon is a less expensive option for the job. For those of you who have removed old PPF's do you guys think the McCulloch is powerful enough for the job?

Any advise/idea/ feedback on best way to approach this project is appreciated! TIA!!

 

[colinpd137]

A steamer could work yes, for most jobs iv'e done like that its always been LOTS of plastic razor blades and a good heat gun. If its still in one piece (Not cracking off/breaking) you can just heat/pull/heat/pull (so on and so fourth).

 

[GearHead_1]

I'd also be tempted to try the heat gun and plastic blades. If it works it's certainly less expensive than acquiring a new steamer. Then again, who doesn't want a new steamer?

 

[Angus]

A steamer could work yes, for most jobs iv'e done like that its always been LOTS of plastic razor blades and a good heat gun. If its still in one piece (Not cracking off/breaking) you can just heat/pull/heat/pull (so on and so fourth).

Thanks! The car is a few states away from me so I haven't had the chance to see it in person. But from the photos the film looks to be in good shape/ no cracks etc just discoloration. The heat gun idea has come up, but we're both a little weary of using a heat gun close to paint.

Q: Roughly how many plastic razor blades should I have on hand for the job?

 

[GearHead_1]

Most heat guns are adjustable and therefore quite controllable. That said, if the heat gun bothers you, consider a hair dryer. I've used both to remove decals, pin stripes and logos, including a Super Chicken/Thunder Sparrow/Phoenix that was far past it's prime on a Trans Am. The decal came off just fine, now the color of the paint matching the rest of the hood, even after much work, was ony passable.

 

[512detail]

I have the MC1375

It's nice but it only Bursts up to 58psi it does not constantly run it

I like it a whole lot for interiors, etc but it Is not really strong enough to use on wheels without additional agitation (I've never used a larger more professional grade steamer but I'd image that would be much better of a product- this one does what I needed it to and I've had it for almost 3 years now with zero issues)

as far as removing it with a mcculloch,,I have no idea - the heat gun idea/plastic razor blade sounds pretty good

 

[Stokdgs]

Its a heat gun but you are in control of the temp and how close you use it on the paint,, so just be careful and it will work great..
It's like a hairdryer, only much hotter but the temp is adjustable, and will always be adjustable as you move it farther away from the target..

Imagine you are painting a spot and go back and forth across that edge until you can lift it and then continue going back and forth under it and keep lifting it and pulling it backwards..

Don't forget, paint gets pretty hot outside in the sun all day and then the manufacturers take most cars out to the desert in AZ and California for durability testing and there I promise you, the paint gets really hot..

All the ClearBra guys I know just use heatguns..
Dan F

 

[Angus]

I have the MC1375

It's nice but it only Bursts up to 58psi it does not constantly run it

I like it a whole lot for interiors, etc but it Is not really strong enough to use on wheels without additional agitation (I've never used a larger more professional grade steamer but I'd image that would be much better of a product- this one does what I needed it to and I've had it for almost 3 years now with zero issues)

as far as removing it with a mcculloch,,I have no idea - the heat gun idea/plastic razor blade sounds pretty good

Cool, thanks man. You pretty much answered my concerns using a consumer grade machine for the job at hand. :bigups

Its a heat gun but you are in control of the temp and how close you use it on the paint,, so just be careful and it will work great..
It's like a hairdryer, only much hotter but the temp is adjustable, and will always be adjustable as you move it farther away from the target..

Imagine you are painting a spot and go back and forth across that edge until you can lift it and then continue going back and forth under it and keep lifting it and pulling it backwards..

Don't forget, paint gets pretty hot outside in the sun all day and then the manufacturers take most cars out to the desert in AZ and California for durability testing and there I promise you, the paint gets really hot..

All the ClearBra guys I know just use heatguns..
Dan F

Thanks, Dan! You're dead on with the sun analogy heating up the paint. I'll share that with my buddy to put him at rest with using a heat gun his TT. :bigups

I have access to a professional grade dual temp heat gun used for stripping off old house paint, I'm sure on the low setting that sucker will work perfectly.

Thanks all. When the time comes, I'll be sure to share the process/results here.

 

[Angus]

Most heat guns are adjustable and therefore quite controllable. That said, if the heat gun bothers you, consider a hair dryer. I've used both to remove decals, pin stripes and logos, including a Super Chicken/Thunder Sparrow/Phoenix that was far past it's prime on a Trans Am. The decal came of just fine, now the color of the paint matching the rest of the hood, even after much work, was ony passable.

Thanks, GearHead! I'm hoping any paint variation with be minimal once the full correction is done...

 

[RaskyR1]

if it's not cracked and brittle I would just heat it up and I can't imagine using a steam unless it's coming off in tiny chunks. My preferred method is to use my IR lamps. This way I can heat up large section at a time and better control panel temps. It also allows me to use both hands and I don't have to keep setting down the heat gun.