M205+rotary=small holograms

Quick update, the job is done. A friend saved the day with some 85rd he had and my blue 3m finishing pad. Three steps but it turned out great.

I definitely enjoy the end results but Machine polishing is not my way of fun lol. Very happy it's finally done.
 
Shouldn't be that hard to finish it. The problem as I see was that your speed was way to high. Usually I finish down at 1000-800rpm and a black lc pad. The white is a polishing pad, so you won't get the ever best finish with m205. The key with the rotary is slower speeds and constant pressure with a straight pad. Good to know that you managed to finish it.
 
Shouldn't be that hard to finish it. The problem as I see was that your speed was way to high. Usually I finish down at 1000-800rpm and a black lc pad. The white is a polishing pad, so you won't get the ever best finish with m205. The key with the rotary is slower speeds and constant pressure with a straight pad. Good to know that you managed to finish it.

This is absolutely correct for those of us who use Rotary Power... Slower speeds, constant flat, pressure, straight pad...
And I will add one if I may - keep the pad just moist enough to allow it to work the compound into the paint and finish down beautifully..
Dan F
 
The only difference is when, like me you use fFerecla G3 with a rotary, its slow speed with the heavy cut,first pass and high speed with the finishing, ultra, if you use it to slow it will dry up to quick and fade the higher the speed on the finishing the better the finish,and yes the temp gets up there, today on a ford I clocked 110 cel with my panel poper :rotary:you now your getting there when the bottom of the doors pop and expand with the heat,
 
Mastering "Rotary" polishing can be a challenge. Perseverance is the key. If you have nothing else. Perseverance will overcome any obstacle.
 
2 Cents....I've got 100's of hours with M205. One key to success is wet buff it, ensuring that you do not extend the buffing time beyond the point where the product begins to dry-up. That point in the buffing cycle ...excessive heat and friction occur, regardless of what pad you're using and you'll impart holograms. Take a look at your pad...if the product is built up in the center, you inadvertently dry buffing. Always pick up your product at 11 & 2 (clock analogy) to evenly distribute product to the outside of the pad. This is where the heat is most significant.

When using M205, apply moderate pressure for 2-3 passes and finish with no pressure (buffer weight or even ever-so-slightly lifting the polisher) for 2 passes or so.

(Don't want to sound like a broken record, but worked at Meguiar's for 17 years and was part of the team that developed M205)...a great product!
 
2 Cents....I've got 100's of hours with M205. One key to success is wet buff it, ensuring that you do not extend the buffing time beyond the point where the product begins to dry-up...

IMO/IME that's good advice for the vast majority of abrasive compounds and polishes, and not just when using a rotary.
 
2 Cents....I've got 100's of hours with M205. One key to success is wet buff it, ensuring that you do not extend the buffing time beyond the point where the product begins to dry-up. That point in the buffing cycle ...excessive heat and friction occur, regardless of what pad you're using and you'll impart holograms. Take a look at your pad...if the product is built up in the center, you inadvertently dry buffing. Always pick up your product at 11 & 2 (clock analogy) to evenly distribute product to the outside of the pad. This is where the heat is most significant.

When using M205, apply moderate pressure for 2-3 passes and finish with no pressure (buffer weight or even ever-so-slightly lifting the polisher) for 2 passes or so.

(Don't want to sound like a broken record, but worked at Meguiar's for 17 years and was part of the team that developed M205)...a great product!

I'm loving the recent knowledge you've been sharing Mr. Jeff Brown! Thanks
 
Mastering "Rotary" polishing can be a challenge. Perseverance is the key. If you have nothing else. Perseverance will overcome any obstacle.
its a lot easier to go from a rotary to a DA than the other way round,back in the day we only had rotarys there was no such thing as a DA,i would imagine that a fella that has learnt on a DA only would find a rotary a nightmare of a machine to master and would go running back to the DA at the drop of a hat,but that same guy in a dealership will struggle to get cars finished in a timely fashion,my point is that if everyone was handed a rotary on their first day and they got the results with it then the step from that to a DA would be a walk in the park,kids these days,they just don't know they are born,lol
 
its a lot easier to go from a rotary to a DA than the other way round,back in the day we only had rotarys there was no such thing as a DA,i would imagine that a fella that has learnt on a DA only would find a rotary a nightmare of a machine to master and would go running back to the DA at the drop of a hat,but that same guy in a dealership will struggle to get cars finished in a timely fashion,my point is that if everyone was handed a rotary on their first day and they got the results with it then the step from that to a DA would be a walk in the park,kids these days,they just don't know they are born,lol

Lim new to both and purchased a 3401 a few months ago. Just bought a 3403 recently and while there is a learning curve, the smoothness of a rotary is by far a more pleasant experience. I much prefer the feel of the rotary, just haven't gotten to use it much yet.
 
Lim new to both and purchased a 3401 a few months ago. Just bought a 3403 recently and while there is a learning curve, the smoothness of a rotary is by far a more pleasant experience. I much prefer the feel of the rotary, just haven't gotten to use it much yet.
Its great to hear that you find the rotary comfortable to work with jrock645,as imo they are a much more capable machine and can deal with anything and then onto the da for a perfect finish,i do a lot of sanding also and find the rotary great for removing 1500 and 2000.
 
Its great to hear that you find the rotary comfortable to work with jrock645,as imo they are a much more capable machine and can deal with anything and then onto the da for a perfect finish,i do a lot of sanding also and find the rotary great for removing 1500 and 2000.

I also just bought a Rupes 15. I don't see the 3501 getting much work. Granted, I'm just a hobbyist but hoping to do some paid details for coworker's and such. Hope I get some soon, as I have a lot of money invested in machines at this point!
 
Its not a cheap hobby to get into thats for sure jrock645,but this is where it starts first friends and workmates then they tell others and before you know it your busy every weekend and your machines will start paying their way,sooner rather than later I hope,in fairness you have great one there in that rupes
 
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