For best durability, do I need to use Eraser after HD Polish and before 2 coats of FK1000P?

R

RPPM

Member
So I machine polished the car with HD Polish and a Black B&S 5.5" pad to pretty much just clean the paint and get some gloss. I want to use FK1000P to see if I can get the same longevity as Accumulator :-). Do I need to use a product like Eraser before the FK1000P, or just go straight to it? I find HD Polish to be not as oily as some of the others. Thoughts?

Also, I am thinking splitting LSP's lengthwise on another car, right side 2 coats FK1000P, left side 2 coats of Sonax PNS, just for a winter test to see what holds up better. I'll make sure I prep both sides the same on that. Should be interesting to see if they differ very much.
 
I've asked Meg's before the same question. They said it's OK to apply their waxes (Ultimate Wax, NXT or Gold Class) after applying their Ultimate Polish. They said that their LSPs should bond to their polishes.

So I think it should be fine with your experiment. But if you want to be extra sure, maybe a paint cleaner product or IPA as JSFM35X suggested?
 
I'm not an expert but it seems to me that the best bond of any LSP is going to be over the cleanest surface. I think of it this way...we wax or seal the paint to make it slick and prevent contaminants from sticking and/or damaging the paint. So if I apply a sealant over an oily or waxed surface, it likely shouldn't bond as well as it would a clean surface. So ideally we should wash, clay and polish if necessary, then we need a cleaner. It may not be a separate step if using an AIO, or it may be a pre-cleaner product or the 50/50 alcohol/water mix. Perhaps if we clay and polish. maybe we just need a detergent wash - but whatever we do, we want a CLEAN dry surface for our new LSP.
 
Subscribed.
Anxious to see how your test works out, Kris.
I'm hooked on using one of the Collinite pastes over DG for the winter, as it's worked well for me over the past years.
FK1000P has never impressed me on paint, but it's my go-to as a wheel sealant, as it seems to last forever.

Bill
 
If you polish and apply a wax or sealant within the same family, you wont need an IPA step after polishing.
 
silverfox said:
If you polish and apply a wax or sealant within the same family, you wont need an IPA step after polishing.
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I'm not sure I understand the statement or the logic. If 'within the same family' means made by the same manufacturer, I would counter with the fact that a true polishing compound has a rather different chemical composition as a wax or polymer sealant.
I think the real issue is ensuring that the paint is clean (meaning free from dirt, grease, oils, wax, etc.) before the LSP application as this ensures the best possible bonding between the paint and the LSP. To a point, better bonding should result in better durability.
 
Products within the same family work in tandem. For example I've gone right from optimum polish to their coating with no bonding issues whatsoever. You want to go an extra step...fine. That works too in most cases. In some cases, it actually hurts bonding because some prep products are not suited for every LSP option. If you stick within the same family, there will never be a bonding issue. If you don't, there's no guarantee you're helping yourself by introducing another step/product from another manufacturer.
 
RPPM said:
.. I want to use FK1000P to see if I can get the same longevity as Accumulator :-). Do I need to use a product like Eraser before the FK1000P, or just go straight to it? I find HD Polish to be not as oily as some of the others..
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While I generally use FK1000P after an AIO or a polish that leaves something behind (e.g., 1Z Pro MP), I've applied it on panels polished with HD Polish, *no stripping*, with no decrease in durability. But there's sure nothing wrong with doing the IPA/Eraser wipedown either.
 
I think that there are two reasons professional detailers wash a vehicle after compounding/polishing:
1) To remove any grit/abrasive dust residue left behind from the polishing;
2) Removing any oils used as a lubricant in those compounds/polishes that are transmitted to the paint surface during the application process

iso-propyl alcohol or prep solvent wipe-downs are OK in lieu of washes for most detailers. That said, M105 and its high-dusting residue will micro-mar your paint if you are not vigilant about its removal via a wash. You wouldn't notice this "phenomenon" until you get the vehicle in the sun. it comes from the fine left-behind abrasive dust that you wipe into your paint with the application of your wax pad and subsequent wiping by a microfiber. Yes, it's not noticeable by the un-informed, but I have seen it in the right bright sunlight and it's terrible, quite frankly, on what you thought was a "perfect" paint. Also, M205, with its Trade Secret Oils (TSOs) do not "play well" (IE, are compatible) with certain waxes (Collinite 885 and Autoglym's HD, in my experience) IF not first removed via an IPA or like prep wipe down.
(That's my story and I am stickin' to it, but your mileage may vary)
 
Lonnie- That's a good point about the M105 and micromarring. (FWIW, I can see it under the SunGun when natural sunlight isn't available.)
 
I did use Eraser to wipe down as I figured I had it anyway...Looking forward to seeing how it holds up. I plan on doing my FK1000P vs SPNS test last weekend in Sept, so I will post up pics. The car will be outside 24/7, my daughter will have it at college beginning that Sunday, so it won't see much of anything other than an occasional maintenance wash for quite a while.
 
RPPM said:
I did use Eraser to wipe down as I figured I had it anyway...Looking forward to seeing how it holds up. I plan on doing my FK1000P vs SPNS test last weekend in Sept, so I will post up pics. The car will be outside 24/7, my daughter will have it at college beginning that Sunday, so it won't see much of anything other than an occasional maintenance wash for quite a while.
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Any update on the FK1000P vs. Sonax PNS winter showdown?
 
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