1st Detailing Planning

[Silento]

After stumbling upon this website, i've learned that i have been washing and waxing the wrong way for years. I did not use the 2 bucket method or grit guard to prevent contaminants getting back onto the paint.

I have been reading and learning so much from this forum. I want my next detailing job to be perfect but know that it isn't possible. I can continue learning more by reading but the best way and quickest way to learn is by doing.

I would like to get advice and suggestions from Autopian people on my steps below on a White 2012 Camry with 80k miles (used and abused by my fiancee),

1. Clean interior - use Tuff Stuff Cleaner to clean the cloth seats and apply aerospace 303
- use BLACKFIRE All-In-One All Purpose Cleaner to clean the trim and apply Carpro Pearl

2. Wash Engine - use DP Engine Degreaser then apply Sonus Trim & Motor Kote - can I use any MF to apply?

3. Wash car using the two bucket method wash with Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash and Super Plush Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt
Dry car with Dry Me A River! Jr. 20 x 40 Premium Microfiber Waffle Weave

4. Clean exhaust pipe

5. Remove contamination with Iron-X. Spray in the shade. Spray the entire car including windows and wheels and let it dwell for 5 minutes
Damp the Super Plush Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt with Iron-X and agitate the surface

6. Clean Wheel - use Iron-X and BF APC with Speed Master Wheel Brush

7. Rinse and wash car by repeating step 4.

8. Clay - clay the car using the Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System

9. Fix scratches - utilize Dr. Colorchip Road Rash Complete Paint Chip Repair Kit

10. Polish - using Prima Amigo (or Auto Finesse Triple) with 6.5 Inch Hybrid Power Finish Black Pad by hand

11. Use Carpro Eraser to wipe away the polish residue

12. Sealant/Wax - apply Collinite 845 with pad and MF came with the bottle
- apply to windows and use window MF
- apply to wheels

13. Apply Carpro Pearl to car trim


please let me know if there is any improvements (products/materials/steps/application) that i can make in my detailing process?

i hope i didn't miss anything.

any feedback or suggestions would be much appreciated


not useful stuff that i own,

 

[jrock645]

I usually wash, then iron x and clay, then wash and dry.

 

[Accumulator]

Silento- I'd just use the 845 on the exterior trim instead of the Pearl, but that's just me.

Also, I would *NOT* apply 845 to the glass.

You might want to do the dreaded SEARCH on the DrColorChips, some of us do *NOT* like to "use as per the instructions", having found methods that work better for us. And however you use the stuff, be *VERY* careful that you don't just polish it off when doing the correction.

I don't consider Gold Class to be an acceptably decent shampoo, but again that's just me and others apparently consider it OK.

 

[Accumulator]

Oh, and you'll quite possibly have to polish the wheels.

Oh#2, didn't see any mention of the wheelwells/undercarriage/engine compartment and IMO keeping those areas decent is *at least* as important as having shiny paint on the areas that show.

 

[Stokdgs]

Here is another truth - 2-buckets and grit guards are not needed if you are careful and use common sense and not let your really nice soft chenille mitt drop to the bottom of the 5-gal bucket and pick up some dirt..

And, you dont have to use really dirty soap to wash a car either, it IS OK to dump it if its that dirty and use new, clean, soap and water..

And, you actually LOOK at the wash mitt as you pull it out of the bucket and notice anything that is NOT the color of the Mitt and remove it from it from the Mitt..
( I believe that stint I did as a Quality Control Tech looking at tiny electronic parts, different colored stripes on tiny resistors, etc.. really helped me with this)

I wash all the time the normal way and never scratch anything...
Dan F

 

[jrock645]

Yeah I do the 2 bucket but don't own grit guards. My mitt never makes it to the bottom so no issues here

 

[rlmccarty2000]

Unless the car is super dirty I would skip the first wash and use Ironx to decontaminate, then rinse very well and then wash and clay. Other than that, you plan sounds great. Enjoy.

 

[RDKC]

2. Wash Engine - use DP Engine Degreaser then apply Sonus Trim & Motor Kote - can I use any MF to apply?
You can use any old microfiber to clean the engine bay. With Sonus Trim & Motor Kote you just spray on and let sit. Actually tells you DO NOT WIPE on the label.

4. Clean exhaust pipe

7. Rinse and wash car by repeating step 4.
I Think you got your steps mixed up.

not useful stuff that i own,
[IMAGE]

Are you saying that the stuff in the picture isn't useful? There isn't anything in that picture that I wouldn't find a use for... except maybe the ArmorAll protectant and tire shine.

 

[Silento]

thank you the feedback everyone,
My fiancee drives the Camry. She lives in Palm Springs and I live in LA, California. She doesn't wash the car and that's the reason why i would like to wash it before applying Iron-X. She didn't even notice the deep scratch on the hood until i pointed out to her

based on all the suggestions, my revised steps are as follows,

1. Clean interior - use Tuff Stuff Cleaner to clean the cloth seats and apply aerospace 303
- use BLACKFIRE All-In-One All Purpose Cleaner to clean the trim and Carpro Pearl

2. Clean wheel well - use APC cleaner and apply Collinite 845

3. Wash Engine - use DP Engine Degreaser with Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from walmart then apply Sonus Trim & Motor Kote

4. Wash engine Hood - use Optimum NRW with Microtex Platinum XL Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from walmart

5. Clean exhaust pipe and undercarriage- using APC cleaner and brush

6. Wash Car - Rinse car and wash car using the two bucket method wash with Optimum NRW and Super Plush Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt

7. Remove contamination with Iron-X. Spray in the shade. Spray the entire car including windows and wheels and let it dwell for 5 minutes
Damp the Super Plush Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt with Iron-X and agitate the surface

8. Clean Wheel - use Iron-X and BF APC with Speed Master Wheel Brush

9. Rinse and wash car by repeating step 6 to rid the contamination

10. Clay - clay the car using the Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System

11. Rinse and wash car by repeating step 6 and and dry car with Dry Me A River! Jr. 20 x 40 Premium Microfiber Waffle Weave

12. Fix scratches - clean spot with Carpo Eraser then utilize Dr. Colorchip Road Rash Complete Paint Chip Repair Kit and let it cure for 30 minutes. Dr. Colorchip or Langka? can't decide

13. Windows - apply Optimum Opti-Glass Coating (or DP Glass Coating) with Rubbermaid hygen Q630 microfiber13. Polish - using Prima Amigo (or Auto Finesse Triple) with 6.5 Inch Hybrid Power Finish Black Pad by hand

14. Use Carpro Eraser to wipe away the polish residue

15. Polish wheels - Use DP Wheel Glaze

15. Sealant/Wax - apply Collinite 845 with pad and MF came with the bottle or get new MF and pads??------------ 2 coats!!!
- apply to car paint need to get a MF and Pad to use for this?
- apply to wheels with Microtex Platinum XL Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (What pad to use?)
- apply to car trim with Microtex Platinum XL Microfiber Cleaning Cloths Microtex Platinum XL Microfiber Cleaning Cloths

16. Dress tire - use Pinnacle Black Onyx Tire Gel

can i apply any other paint protection on top collinite 845 or not needed?

would appreciate any further suggestions or corrections?

again thank you for the guidance

just picked this up from my local kmart, sun joe SPX 3000 from target, Microtex Platinum XL Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 15pk and Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from walmart

the awful scratches - i cry every time i see these scratches. car has no scratches when i gave it to her.

rear bumper

hood

 

[Accumulator]

Silento- While I myself would have that bumpercover repainted, you could make it and the hood a lot better with some touchup paint (white's somewhat forgiving).

I'd use the Dr ColorChips but apply it like regular paint *NOT* with their "smear it all over" approach (BTDT, and on a white car too).

The idea behind having the engine compartment and undercarriage clean is so a) things don't start to rust (dirt harbors moisture, yeah...even in California) and b) you can see any mechanical issues developing before they're serious. Also makes it more pleasant when checking fluids/etc.

I would not use MFs in the engine compartment as you'll probably ruin them.

No need to top the 845.

Apply the 845 with a regular foam "wax applicator" sponge.

 

[Silento]

Silento- While I myself would have that bumpercover repainted, you could make it and the hood a lot better with some touchup paint (white's somewhat forgiving).

I'd use the Dr ColorChips but apply it like regular paint *NOT* with their "smear it all over" approach (BTDT, and on a white car too).

The idea behind having the engine compartment and undercarriage clean is so a) things don't start to rust (dirt harbors moisture, yeah...even in California) and b) you can see any mechanical issues developing before they're serious. Also makes it more pleasant when checking fluids/etc.

I would not use MFs in the engine compartment as you'll probably ruin them.

No need to top the 845.

Apply the 845 with a regular foam "wax applicator" sponge.

Thanks for quick response

I cannot afford the money to repaint the whole bumpers so I want to try Dr. ColorChips based on the success stories that i have read.

Yes I will be cleaning the undercarriage from your suggestion.

I will also be cleaning the engine compartment,
3. Wash Engine - use DP Engine Degreaser with Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from walmart then apply Sonus Trim & Motor Kote

is there a reason to why i shouldn't use MF to clean off the grease? before apply Sonus Trim & Motor Kote?

Thanks again!!!

 

[Accumulator]

Silento- Getting the MFs clean again might be really tough. No need to use them on surfaces that aren't too prone to marring (i.e., most underhood stuff), better to use rags/etc. at least for the nasty portion of the job.

 

[Silento]

Silento- Getting the MFs clean again might be really tough. No need to use them on surfaces that aren't too prone to marring (i.e., most underhood stuff), better to use rags/etc. at least for the nasty portion of the job.

good point............thanks Accumulator!

will opt to use Rubbermaid hygen 620 or rags from walmart/costco

 

[Silento]

I'd use the Dr ColorChips but apply it like regular paint *NOT* with their "smear it all over" approach (BTDT, and on a white car too).

you have had a lot of experience with Dr ColorChips/Langka based on your posts that i have read. Will it be okay to iron-x, wash, apply Dr ColorChips cure and reapply. repeat for several coats then let it cure for 30 minutes then polish?

i saw a video on youtube and a guy suggested to polish the area first per manufacture's suggestion, kinda against what I read from others.

Also, has anyone ever apply bondo to the deep scratches to fill the hole first before crowning the area with colorchips? There is a very good video on youtube. I think that method does a good job with filling the hole.

 

[marcusstedman]

Auto detailing can be a great way to bond with your car, and to make your automotive investment go farther, last longer and look better. A good clay bar system includes a spray lubricant, usually a detailing spray, an 80 - 100 gram clay bar, and a towel. After washing and drying your car, you rub the clay bar on the paint to remove "bonded environmental contaminants" without removing paint thickness. The smoother paint surface takes polishing and wax better, and extends the life of subsequent treatments.

 

[Accumulator]

Silento- Well, I have enough experience with the Dr. ColorChips to have some opinions about how to use it

Not sure how the IronX and conventional wash will work for the cleaning, I use a bodyshop-type solvent.

I have filled in deep gouges with putty since forever (IIRC you want to use bodyshop "Glazing Putty"..the stuff I used in the '70s was blue, IIRC from 3M.. for that as opposed to regular Bondo). These days I just fill (even deep ones) with the paint, but I can see trying the putty if the gouge is deep enough, BUT the putty won't flex even as much as paint and that might make for trouble on a plastic bumpercover.

On my previous (white) Crown Vic I just layered on the Dr ColorChips paint, many applications, and filled some *nasty* gouges that way. Stayed OK for the rest of the time I had the car.

I go both ways with regard to polishing/etc. before the touchups, IMO it's one of those "it just depends.." sort of things. Sorry, I know that's not much help.

Pro: the polishing can remove loose bits of existing paint, like around the perimeter of the chip and smoothing can presumably make for a less obvious touchup.

Con: the polishing will thin the paint in that area which can limit future options (esp. those related to leveling), and removing the "hard edges" of the chip can make it tougher to keep the touchup paint fully inside the chip, which can make for more "cleanup" work and can also make it harder to get it to look right IMO; IMO it's gonna show anyhow and what looks "best" is in the eye of the beholder.

Generally, I'd go over the chip just enough to make sure there is no loose/flaky paint there, and then I'd start with the touchup paint. I'd consider doing your polishing/correction *first* (limiting the work on the actual chips/gouges) so you don't polish away the touchup paint...that gets to be a tricky call, which to do first, as you can mar the surrounding area when leveling the paint with their solvent (primarily if you use a coarse cloth).

I gather you've already read my previous posts about the Dr ColorChips, but if there's anything I can clarify just ask. Biggies are a) use a small artist's brush, b) use a scrap piece of MF to level with their solvent (NOT the cloth they provide!), c) that bit about not polishing away the touchup paint, which is *very* easy to do.

 

[4u2nvinmtl]

I would do it in a slightly different order (to speed things up):

1. Vacuum then Clean interior - Tuff Stuff Cleaner to clean seats, apply aerospace 303 - BF AIO APC to clean the trim and apply Carpro Pearl

2. Clean wheel well, wheel and tire - use Iron-X and BF APC with Speed Master Wheel Brush then Polish wheels - Use DP Wheel Glaze and apply Collinite 845

3. Wash Engine - use DP Engine Degreaser with Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from Wal-Mart then apply Sonus Trim & Motor Kote

4. Wash engine Hood - use Optimum NRW with Microtex Platinum XL Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from Walmart

5. Remove contamination with Iron-X. Spray in the shade. Spray just the bottom panels to test and if there's a lot of contamination spray the entire car including windows and wheels and let it dwell for 5 minutes. I would use a brush or cheap mitt to agitate the surface and not use this to wash the paint.

6. Clean exhaust pipe and undercarriage- using APC cleaner and brush (I would use a polish for the exhaust like Never-Dull)

7. Wash Car - Rinse car and wash car using the two bucket method wash with Optimum NRW and Super Plush Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt or Foam cannon/gun without any buckets (faster)

8. Clay - clay the car using the Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System and dry as you go with Dry Me A River! Jr. 20 x 40 Premium Microfiber Waffle Weave

9. Fix rock chips - clean spot with Carpo Eraser then utilize Dr. Colorchip Road Rash Complete Paint Chip Repair Kit and let it cure for 30 minutes. Dr. Colorchip or Langka? can't decide (I use layers of touch up paint that's VIN# matched, and wet sand or compound to level)

10. Correct the paint using a two-step (compound and then polish) with a DA and some 5.5 inch pads

11. Use Carpro Eraser to wipe away the polish residue (where's your compound/polish steps?, I added the above)

12. Windows - apply Optimum Opti-Glass Coating (or DP Glass Coating) with Rubbermaid hygen Q630 microfiber13. Polish - using Prima Amigo (or Auto Finesse Triple) with 6.5 Inch Hybrid Power Finish Black Pad by hand

13. Sealant/Wax - apply 1 layer of Collinite 845 with pad foam pad

14. Dress tire - use Pinnacle Black Onyx Tire Gel

15. Take pictures!

 

[Accumulator]

...[touchup and then]...and wet sand or compound to level...

Not with either Lankga or Dr ColorChips

Which is why I was glad he was going with one of those, just *so many* people open a nasty can-o'-worms when they try to level touchups the abrasive way. I honestly believe that wetsanding/compounding/polishing to level chips is in that "if you have to ask, just don't try it" category. Yeah, *I* do it that way on my "good cars" but I've been doing it forever.

Not arguing, just trying to head off the so-common-

Q: "I wetsanded and ...[!uh-oh!]...how do I fix this?"
A: "with a paintgun"