MiVor
New member
So that sounds about like 1 oz. of 601 to 4 oz. 105 or 111 - for two coats. Does that sound about right?
-Mike
My weekly wash ...
- Thread starter MiVor
- Start date
So that sounds about like 1 oz. of 601 to 4 oz. 105 or 111 - for two coats. Does that sound about right?
-Mike
Correct. If you come up short you can mix another batch as it is a little hard to guesstimate with all that sheet metal. The measurements do not have to be exact as you probably know.
Dave
MiVor
New member
Thanks - I got some squeeze bottles and used an ONR cap and water to make some relative sharpie lines for the 4 to 1. Mixing will make for less work than applying 601 by hand then 105 or 111. I'm curious to see how the combo holds up over our winter here...although I'm hoping summer lasts until December (our last winter seemed soooo cold and long!)
Anyway, she has 105 on here now (but I didn't use bonding agent) so I think after the next wash, I'll give her a coat or two of mixed 601/111.
I also found some Collinite 476S in my old supply stash...but am resisting the urge at this point (however for winter, just maybe 105/111/111/collinite - ?)
I am testing 476s right now on the Wife's Van that is outside 24/7. Here in AZ with 601/105 longevity on the roof was about 9 months. The rest of the Van had 601/111 over the 105 and those sections were still fine at 1 year. I want to see how Collinite holds up in the 110+ temps here. I applied 885 to my truck that had 1 year old 601/111 but it sits in the garage most of the time, The 32' RV received 925 on Drivers side , 885 on the back and Passenger side but it has a RV cover on it. The RV had 601/105 and had the cover on and off last year and I let it go to long, about 13 months and had to compound the oxidation off. All of this info is just to give you an idea of longevity that I have found.
Dave
MiVor
New member
In general, collinite gets high marks for durability/longevity, but AZ is a tough location for any wax. And your weather there almost couldn't be more different than the weather here in CNY. My concern is mostly winter with all the dern salt used around here. Then because of that I find myself at least once a week at the coin-op pressure wash.... And because it's butt freezing cold WINTER, polishing/waxing just doesn't happen. So come fall, I'm looking to put on a layer (or layers) of protection armor. Maybe one day I'll consider a coating, but right now I'm thinking sealant with a wax topper as I mentioned (perhaps 652/105/111/111/Collinite)....perhaps that's overkill?
No such thing as over kill in Winter, I grew up in Eastern PA, 4 years at Limestone Maine (-70 and more snow I ever saw), 18 Months in upper Vermont. Salt, Brine and sand kills vehicles. Put the 111 on then coat with 476 when Winter approaches would be my strategy. I watched many a nice vehicle rust away in my lifetime. If you are interested take a look on eastwood.com at the rust prevention section. They have a in frame coating that works very well in the frame, doors, tailgate, rocker panels and anywhere else you can put it.
Dave
MiVor
New member
When I bought the truck I got Auto Armor rust proofing and undercoating. The undercoating didn't stick in spots I believe because it was January and wasn't properly prepped. I pressure washed it really well and had it resprayed in April. I dunno about the rustproofing. Since then I've learned about Fluid Film and I think I might spray inside body panels (doors, tailgate) as well as hinges, etc. as an extra measure of rust proofing. Although the truck will live outside in the driveway, it will only be out on the road once or twice a week so in conjunction with a solid LSP, and a weekly coin-op pressure wash, she should hold up well. (knock wood as he wraps his head).
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
Since Fluid Film has been mentioned, I'll throw this out there. I've been using Fluid Film for a number of years this is a versitile product and very useful in certain applications. I tried it on the Bolt Carrier Group of an AR15 just for grins and giggles. It leaves a kind of waxy heavy film and isn't suited for that particular application but does work very well on the slide of a Glock where grease is initially used. It also works well in the barrel of a snow blower. It keeps the barrel very clean for a couple of uses and is simple to reapply. I think it would work quite well in tight places where rust might want to hide.
I have read a few posts on Fluid Film and it seems the people that used it for rust prevention were satisfied with it. As long as it works that is all that really matters. Rust seems to start at all those spot welds around wheel wells, the bottom of rocker panels, any spot weld that is exposed to the elements. The bottom inside of front fenders is a hot spot where leaves and other debris seem to collect, the inside folded seams of doors and tailgates are hot spots also. I never had to do the routine but I imagine you could invest a fair amount of time trying to treat all the areas where rust could start from winter weather.
Dave
Dave
MiVor
New member
Re: My weekly wash ... TAKE TWO
Another Friday (where do the weeks go?)...
I did an ONR wash. Then I did one coat of DG 601/105, followed by two coats of DG 601/111 !!! I toyed with the idea of a Collinite 476s topper, but by then the surface was too hot to apply wax...(besides, it was prolly just the heat stoke talkin!)...
Notes:
1) 601 was mixed with both 105 and 111 at a 4:1 ratio (4 parts polish/sealant to 1 part bonding agent).
2) It had a previous coat of 105, but not with 601, so I wanted both and the cleaning capability of 105 before applying 111.
3) I found the 601/111 a bit harder to buff off.
Another Friday (where do the weeks go?)...
I did an ONR wash. Then I did one coat of DG 601/105, followed by two coats of DG 601/111 !!! I toyed with the idea of a Collinite 476s topper, but by then the surface was too hot to apply wax...(besides, it was prolly just the heat stoke talkin!)...
Notes:
1) 601 was mixed with both 105 and 111 at a 4:1 ratio (4 parts polish/sealant to 1 part bonding agent).
2) It had a previous coat of 105, but not with 601, so I wanted both and the cleaning capability of 105 before applying 111.
3) I found the 601/111 a bit harder to buff off.
Attachments
It is 102 here right now suppose to get to 106. 111 being a little harder to buff of is ok, may have gotten it a little thicker than need be. I know getting a little to much on lighter colored vehicles is easy because it is much harder to see, I seem to do that a lot. I had some ONR laying around so I mixed it to make a QD and tried it on the 885 on the truck this morning. I only did 1/2 the hood and now know not to do that again. The ONR felt like sand paper going on and off. I quickly went to the 932 mix and now have the slick feeling back. The ONR is several years old, before the latest additive changes. Your truck looks good.
Dave
Dave
MiVor
New member
(AZ 106+ F) ..... Yeah, but it's a dry heat :cheers:
I'm glad I learned about mixing the bonding agent with the 'polish' as it cuts down the effort required, especially when doing multiple coats. I need some work on the correct volume to mix. I had too much left over 601/105, Then ran low on 601/111 for the first coat, then had extra on the 2nd (I was mixing approx 1/2 oz. 601 to 2 oz. product. I think I could have used less and spread thinner, but as you mentioned, my blue granite is a little light and I had to look twice to see coverage (and didn't want to miss spots). Anyway, I'll continue my weekly wash 'n Aquawax topper routine and I should be good now until the fall. If I'm happy with this, I'll repeat in the fall plus add the Collinite topper. The only difference is in the fall I may preface the process with DG Pre-cleaner after wash 'n clay (prolly amount to like a 4 hour process, but the price you pay for winter protection!)
Observations:
1) I have a very clean 'sealant' look, but not really a deep wet shine...which I think you only really get with 'wax' (in spite of the 111 claim on the box). Still, I'm looking more for protection than show room shine and I've yet to see how Aquawax looks on top of the 111 sealant.
2) Where the 'heck' is all the dang pollen coming from?!!!
I'm glad I learned about mixing the bonding agent with the 'polish' as it cuts down the effort required, especially when doing multiple coats. I need some work on the correct volume to mix. I had too much left over 601/105, Then ran low on 601/111 for the first coat, then had extra on the 2nd (I was mixing approx 1/2 oz. 601 to 2 oz. product. I think I could have used less and spread thinner, but as you mentioned, my blue granite is a little light and I had to look twice to see coverage (and didn't want to miss spots). Anyway, I'll continue my weekly wash 'n Aquawax topper routine and I should be good now until the fall. If I'm happy with this, I'll repeat in the fall plus add the Collinite topper. The only difference is in the fall I may preface the process with DG Pre-cleaner after wash 'n clay (prolly amount to like a 4 hour process, but the price you pay for winter protection!)
Observations:
1) I have a very clean 'sealant' look, but not really a deep wet shine...which I think you only really get with 'wax' (in spite of the 111 claim on the box). Still, I'm looking more for protection than show room shine and I've yet to see how Aquawax looks on top of the 111 sealant.
2) Where the 'heck' is all the dang pollen coming from?!!!
Yeah, another 106+ day. This and higher will be the norm for the rest of Summer. Have you used Collinite before ?, I ask because it is a totally different look than the traditional sealants. When I did the 476s and 885 I wasn't to sure I liked it but it is growing on me over time. Sealants give what some people term as a plastic type of finish which I have used for 30ish years as Carnuba waxes do not last very long around here. With all the hype about Collinite I thought I would give it a chance in a toasty environment. No pollen here just dust. Aqua Wax may give you a little more bling but I think the 932 mixed as a QD gives more than Aqua Wax.
Dave
Dave
MiVor
New member
As I mentioned in another post, I've been an ONR fan for a long time. I use it at detail/clay lube strength, even for rinseless washes. As of late, I've laced the mix with Aquawax. Since I'm on the DG kick right now, I will give DG 932 a go when my current bottle of ONR runs low/out. I could be wrong, but I think the extra step with AW is worth the effort, especially since the process is pretty quick.