I've always subscribed to the GM method of rotor prep (which the flat-rate guys never do) and rotors seem to last forever for me.
First, after knocking off any rust around the perimeter, I give them a good soap and water scrubbing. Once dried, the surfaces get a D/A sanding with 120-150 grit paper, including the hub mating surface. One more soap and water wash and they're almost ready. Final important step before install is to also sand any rust off the hub and give it a light painting with anti-seize. The wheel mating surface also gets a bit of anti-seize, as well as the wheel stud threads and the lug nut cones. I've been accused of anti-seize abuse, but I've never broken a wheel stud in over 40 years of wrenching and never had to hammer the wheels off any of my own cars.
Once it's all back together, I subscribe to the 30-30-30 theory. That is 30 stops from 30 mph, with 30 seconds of cool down between stops. IMO, driving technique also contributes to rotor longevity. Pittsburgh is all hilly terrain and I'd rather make a few hard stabs at the brake pedal rather than riding it lightly all the way down the hill.
Also, I never use the e-brake on an auto trans vehicle unless absolutely necessary and even then only lightly. I used to test transmissions when I worked for GM and never saw a park mechanism fail. However, I've seen many folks who habitually stomp or yank hard on the e-brake need rotors almost every brake job.
Bill
