Yet another new guy

BarracksSi

New member
After hearing about this site through other members at ephatch.com , I finally decided to sign up - yay for me!



Now that I've got a new car (2002 Civic Si) whose looks I want to preserve, I'll be keeping a lookout for tips on the usual things -- buffing (Porter Cable is the Holy Grail of buffers, I take it?), scratch removal, and bumper dings (city life takes its toll).



My barely-organized Imagestation gallery.. lol



If anybody has any tuba-related questions, I can point the way, too!
 
:welcome Glad to have you here! A good starting point is to click on the "Learn" icon and read thru those articles. Also buy the Autopia Guide to Detailing (link on the home page). And some folks also read thru the Autopia University forum, as most all the basic questions have been asked and answered there (dozens of times!).



Happy detailing!
 
Lowejackson said:
Welcome to Autopia :)



One question on the tuba, what materials do you use to clean and protect?



LOL... I should have expected this kind of question... ;)



Lacquered brass -- the stuff you see 90% of the time in school bands -- is best cleaned with soap & water, or just plain water. Cheap lacquers can be damaged by glass cleaner products, and brass polish is definitely the wrong thing to use. I suppose that car care products designed for old lacquered finishes could work, but I've never bothered to try.



For bare brass, I'll clean off the tarnish with Nevr-Dull -- it's the only thing I've used so far that really brings the gleam back. It's the same stuff I use on the exhaust tips of my car, too.



Heavy silver tarnish or satin silver finishes need straight Tarn-X (if you want it done in less than a day), sprayed sparingly, then immediately rinsed. It's pretty strong, and it can degrade soldered joints, especially repairs done with lead solder.



For shiny silver:



Wright's or Twinkle silver creams do the job, and they even work by using the same rag over and over again. The cream, fundamentally, is just polishing compound in suspension, and the rag simply carries the same compound.



Weekly cleanings can be done pretty well with glass cleaner products. Most tarnish problems come from surface contaminants (skin oils, grass moisture, etc.), and Windex-type cleaners get all that stuff off. Plus, using a reasonably-clean polishing rag will take care of the polishing part.



Wearing cotton gloves for daily use also significantly reduces any need for heavy cleaning.



If you get silver polished extremely well, and it ends up really clean and smooth, water won't even stick -- it'll fall right off. That's a lot of work, though.



And that's just for exterior care... another book could be written about the internals, and yet another book could be written about how people come up with their own personal preferences!
 
WOW Looks like BarracksSi will fit right in with an answer like that!!!





Welcome and Hi! :wavey



How's this?!?!?! :sosad
 
Well, I know a lot more about tuba care than car care, so I've got stuff to learn.



My previous car was an '86 Si, and although it's always impressed me, it acquired a half-assed paint job under its previous owner, and I just felt that it wasn't salvageable. An uncle of mine once took an orbital polisher & some compound to it and got rid of the oxidation, but I never kept up with keeping it nice. Bums me out when I see the occasional showroom-clean '86 Si.



And the violin? SUCKS. How do I know? My sister tortured the family while she was learning back in 4th grade. :D



One of my drill instructors back in boot camp called me over by going, "Hey, 'Band!' C'mere, BAND!"



"Sir!"



"Yes, YOU! You play in the BAND, don't you?!?" (makes violin motion with his hands... funny, no violins in most bands)
 

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