Yes, another 105 thread. -For the Flex users - Not getting all the swirls out...

H

HappyWax

New member
Scenario:



2001 Nissan Frontier Electric Blue Desert Runner.

(aka my work truck)



Just got my 105 and Purple Foamed Wool - and I was thinking I could do some serious correction -but I am a little puzzled...



I sectioned off half of my hood- used a quarter size amount and worked it (this stuff seams to dry REALLY fast) I used medium pressure 2 passes and 2 passes light pressure (cleaned the pad in between) --speed 4/5 by the way

1. there was no haze at all- it was as if I was using a very mild polish

2. some scratched were removed but clearly a decent amount remained.



Am I over assuming how much correction a Flex, 105 and PFW can do?

Am I doing something wrong ( because the 105 finished was so haze free, I figure I must be doing something wrong)?





Notes: I prepped the surface with an onr wash, sonus paint cleaning polish.
 
Try speed 6 next time. You can also mist some water on the area you are polishing before you start. Also try an orange pad, I know its milder than the pfw but just see what happens.
 
I posted a few threads after receiving M105 last week and it has a lot less cut than I was expecting. If I would compare it to Menzerna it would be about equal in cut to SIP. People on here have said that my results may be unique to my car's clear coat but I really don't see how it could work so much better than the Menzerna line on another type of clear coat. They should both work better or worse depending on how hard the clear coat is.
 
toyotaguy said:
105 has more cut than sip...i have done multiple side by side comparisons on multiple cars/paints...and I use a PC with it!
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I was using it with a rotary and wool pad and it could not take out 2000 grit sanding marks after 3 passes. Power gloss took it out after 1 pass, SIP took it out after 3 passes with an orange pad. So from my results it's about equal to SIP.
 
dan46n2 said:
I was using it with a rotary and wool pad and it could not take out 2000 grit sanding marks after 3 passes. Power gloss took it out after 1 pass, SIP took it out after 3 passes with an orange pad. So from my results it's about equal to SIP.
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u kidding?! i took 2k grit it with 83 and polish pad on rotary. and with 105 and wool got deep scratches out . u may not work the compound all the way to brake down.
 
axel_ny said:
u kidding?! i took 2k grit it with 83 and polish pad on rotary. and with 105 and wool got deep scratches out . u may not work the compound all the way to brake down.
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It was working all the way down, and rpm was at 1500.. it did finish very well though but the level of cut was poor IMO.
 
dan46n2 said:
It was working all the way down, and rpm was at 1500.. it did finish very well though but the level of cut was poor IMO.
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1500 rpm?? , I level 1000 grit sand scratches with 105 but I go higher than that(1800-2400 rpm) initially then step down the speed to 1500, then to 1000 rpm and get correction everytime go figure.



Of course after 1000 grit I follow with finer grit paper on severe defects, but when 105 first came out I tried it on a black scrap Porsche hood and put 1000 grit scratches in it to see if the product was all that....... and it is corrected the scratches with less hazing than compounds with the same level of cut(3M extra cut).
 
move up to 85 - Diamond Cut, and start working the product until its done - as in a fine dry powder coming off the paint.

85 diamond cut, 83 DACP & 105 ultra fine. they are chemical AND break down solid polishes. they all require working until GONE - fine dust product. & unlike most waxes, glazes, etc you'd rather use alittle more product than less.
 
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