Yellow road paint removal
- Thread starter tooklean
- Start date
mgm2003
New member
Plastic razor blades.
TrueDetailer
All About The Bling Bling
mgm2003 said:
Yep thats the safest way. You can also try som thinner. If you have access to a pressure washer that will work on it to. You don't have to get to close to it, that stuff comes off easy with medium pressure.
TrueDetailer
All About The Bling Bling
tooklean said:
It would work somewhat, but why would you want to go and waste a 10-15 dollar bar of clay when there are more cheaper ways of removing it?
Brenton
aka PEI Detail
I've not found the Kerosene based products to be that helpful, honestly, like tar removers or WD-40.
I've done what True mentioned, lacquer thinner, but remember that for Urethane Enamel paints, you need to use Reducer instead.
I've done what True mentioned, lacquer thinner, but remember that for Urethane Enamel paints, you need to use Reducer instead.
ajbarnes
New member
thinner or WD-40 as already mentioned.
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
I used to paint parking lots with oil-base traffic paint from Set Fast, now owned by Sherman Williams. However, most todays paint due to restrictions are now latex based.
When I had to cut down the oil paints, I used Naptha, which can also remove it. You have to treat it, let it sit and work to soften the paint so you can remove it.
If it's latex, that can be a bit more problematic due to the heavy latex material used in it to make it more durable on the road surface. That MAY have to be removed physically as opposed to mineral spirits which will not have any impact on that paint.
If you get any of it off and it feels soft and rubbery, it's latex. Sometimes since it got onto another surface that may have been coated (wax etc) if it's latex, it will peel off.
On another note, most hot plastic paint used cures right away so it should not be the thermal paints used on roads as well. Those are applied by large trucks with the heaters.
Work on the areas that are not exposed to find out what it is and how much effort it will take to remove before working on a finish area.
Regards,
Deanski
When I had to cut down the oil paints, I used Naptha, which can also remove it. You have to treat it, let it sit and work to soften the paint so you can remove it.
If it's latex, that can be a bit more problematic due to the heavy latex material used in it to make it more durable on the road surface. That MAY have to be removed physically as opposed to mineral spirits which will not have any impact on that paint.
If you get any of it off and it feels soft and rubbery, it's latex. Sometimes since it got onto another surface that may have been coated (wax etc) if it's latex, it will peel off.
On another note, most hot plastic paint used cures right away so it should not be the thermal paints used on roads as well. Those are applied by large trucks with the heaters.
Work on the areas that are not exposed to find out what it is and how much effort it will take to remove before working on a finish area.
Regards,
Deanski
Beemerboy
Just One More Coat
I did a car years back with this type of paint on it...depending on how long its been on there would determine what works best...for the wells I used Lacquer Thinner and that took the paint right off..On the painted surfaces I used the same but you really have to be careful with it....Best selection for the paint is mineral sprits its not hard on the paint or clear I should say...make sure to polish and wax right after...That's my take on it
Here are the before and after pics of my job.....8 hours total on this one
Here are the before and after pics of my job.....8 hours total on this one
Beemerboy
Just One More Coat
mtmaher1 said:
it was one of my neighbors she ran over a full can of white striping paint that had fallen off a truck in front of her...then she stopped and back over it again...it was every where on one side of the car...the lacquer thinner was the only thing that would remove it...on the plastic parts I used a stiff plastic brush and heavy degrease.....and that took quit a while...I would not recommend using LT on the paint...I had to go down the side of the car with two buckets one soap the other clean water...wipe on the LT in a small area like 12x12 then soap down, wash off and rinse step and repeat...that's what took so long
I found a product called zyxlex. I called the local auto paint supplier and he recomended this product. I went over and picked up a can for 18.00 bucks took it over to the shop and did a test on the wheel well came off very easy. I will remove the rest in the morning and start my detail. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
tooklean said:I found a product called zyxlex. I called the local auto paint supplier and he recomended this product. I went over and picked up a can for 18.00 bucks took it over to the shop and did a test on the wheel well came off very easy. I will remove the rest in the morning and start my detail. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
I'd be interested in knowing what chemical is in zyxlex, does the label on the can say what it is?
The label does not say what the product contains. I know it has a strong odor had to wear a venelation mask to cut back the fumes. Had both garage doors wide open LOL. I'm no chemist but its some kind of thinner. As I mentioned in my last post the overspray came off no problems and mimimal elbow grease.