Worse marring with SSR1 than 2?!

W

WrxRob513

New member
When working on the black Carrera I did last weekend (see: http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=56524)

I came upon a perplexing dilemma. I was polishing with SSR2.5 on a Propel yellow pad for the first few passes which got the vast majority of the swirling out. My second round was going to be SSR1 on the blue pad, but when i attempted to polish using that combo, i was left with micomarring!



The paint looked to be 95% marring free after SSR2.5 on a yellow pad, but after SSR1 on a blue the marring become worse! I proceeded to go over those areas with 2.5 again and the marring dissapeared!



I was sure to use plenty of prouct and i primed the pad with a mist of water or megs FI spray. On some panels i was forced to proceed straight from SSR2.5 to AIO and leave a bit of swirling. This has never happened to me before!



Thoughts? Explanation?
 
There could have been some dirt or something on the pad that you were using for the SSR1.
 
I've been able to get an almost marring-free finish with SSR2.5 on black paint. I haven't tried SSR1 though...I never bothered to get it since 2.5 was so good to me.

Which pad did you use SSR1 with?
 
MS22 said:
There could have been some dirt or something on the pad that you were using for the SSR1.
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I used a brand new pad. :( i even made sure to use a little extra polish to make sure no dry pad touched the paint. :(
 
I wouldn't think the blue pad would cause any marring. It's pretty soft. And you said you primed the pad first too... :nixweiss



I guess you could have tried a black pad. I can't help a whole lot since I've never used SSR1 myself.
 
White95Max said:
I wouldn't think the blue pad would cause any marring. It's pretty soft. And you said you primed the pad first too... :nixweiss



I guess you could have tried a black pad. I can't help a whole lot since I've never used SSR1 myself.
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Yeah me either, I usually stick to 2 or 2.5 but it was my first black car that wasn't in pristine condition already, so i figured i would try to minimize remaining swirls. *shrug* your guess is as good as mine.

Thanks for your help though. :up
 
You are doing a Carrera for money i assume, and you dont know how to get around this?



Its either the pad or the polish, begin the process of elimination.
 
JBM said:
You are doing a Carrera for money i assume, and you dont know how to get around this?



Its either the pad or the polish, begin the process of elimination.
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Yes. and Yes. Henceforth why i pursued help in the matter.



I didn't have another clean blue pad, and the SSR1 didn't marr the previous day so i will try the blue pad with a different polish on my car and see what happens.
 
WrxRob513 said:
........I was polishing with SSR2.5 on a Propel yellow pad for the first few passes which got the vast majority of the swirling out. My second round was going to be SSR1 on the blue pad, but when i attempted to polish using that combo, i was left with micomarring!.......
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When using a polish like SSR2.5 and a cutting pad you'll often have to follow-up with SSR2.5 on a polish pad. Sometimes the maring left from a cutting pad is too much for SSR1 to remove. Also make sure you work the polish long enough for it to break down properly.



Try a small area with 2.5 on a polish pad and see how it looks before you do the whole car (you might have to do more than one pass/application). You might need to follow that up with SSR1. I would always start out with a polish pad first, then step-up to a cutting pad if the defects aren't being removed.
 
Eliot Ness said:
When using a polish like SSR2.5 and a cutting pad you'll often have to follow-up with SSR2.5 on a polish pad. Sometimes the maring left from a cutting pad is too much for SSR1 to remove. Also make sure you work the polish long enough for it to break down properly.



Try a small area with 2.5 on a polish pad and see how it looks before you do the whole car (you might have to do more than one pass/application). You might need to follow that up with SSR1. I would always start out with a polish pad first, then step-up to a cutting pad if the defects aren't being removed.
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I think you mis read. I was attempting to clean up the remaining marring from SSR 2.5 (applied with a cutting pad ) with SSR1 (applied with a poishing pad). When I used SSR1 the resulting swirls were worse than after SSR2.5.



I concluded that it was probably a defective pad, because the same bottle of SSR1 worked fine with another pad.
 
Did you use a damp pad for the 2.5? I think I remember reading somewhere that dampening the pad makes the product more aggressive. I could be wrong, but I could swear I remember Steve saying that.
 
I used an orange LC pad with SSR1 this weekend and the lady whos Tahoe we did came out and said wow it looks great. I said thanks should only be about 2-3 more hours. She said why you already waxed it! I had not even gone to the Zaino yet!
 
It seems this came-up by another member the other day. I'm not sure how he resolved his problem; not sure he did, but I find it odd that members are having problems with SSR 1 leaving haze and micromarring.



EDIT: I see you have your problem figured out!



As for bas selection, can someone clear-up some confusion for me? The orange LC pad is equivalent to what Sonus pad? I think it's equivalent to the yellow Sonus pad, but I can't remember.



JJ
 
J.J. said:


As for bas selection, can someone clear-up some confusion for me? The orange LC pad is equivalent to what Sonus pad? I think it's equivalent to the yellow Sonus pad, but I can't remember.



JJ
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No idea. Someone should make an Excel sheet of all the manufacturers and pad equivalents! :bounce
 
WrxRob,



So were you able to finally resolve your problem? How were you able to finally remove the marring caused by polishing pad and SSr1? I will be making my first attempts at using a PC with SSR 2.5 and FPII along with Sonus pads soon and just want to be fully prepared for situations like the on you have just described.



Thanks
 
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