Wolfgang Uber dusting?

jrock645

jrock645

New member
So I'm working on my moms car for her bday. A '13 Subaru Outback, burgundy. Anyway, she doesn't have her car detailed so other than a couple machine washes it hasn't been touched since I clayed and sealed it last summer.

I purchased a flex a couple months ago and I'm using that with Wolfgang products to polish. I started with uber compound and cyan hydro tech pads. I've used uber compound before and did not have issues with it. Tonight, it was dusting almost immediately even on speed 4.

just to see, I switched to TSR and the cyan pads and no more dusting, even cranked to speed 6. Any idea what the deal is?
 
Eh, it was pretty cool out when I was working but I suppose the humidity could've been a factor. Just seemed strange how quickly it happened. Very frustrating.
 
jrock645 said:
So I'm working on my moms car for her bday. A '13 Subaru Outback, burgundy. Anyway, she doesn't have her car detailed so other than a couple machine washes it hasn't been touched since I clayed and sealed it last summer.

I purchased a flex a couple months ago and I'm using that with Wolfgang products to polish. I started with uber compound and cyan hydro tech pads. I've used uber compound before and did not have issues with it. Tonight, it was dusting almost immediately even on speed 4.

just to see, I switched to TSR and the cyan pads and no more dusting, even cranked to speed 6. Any idea what the deal is?
Click to expand...

Could be dusting on you for a few reasons...
Is the Cyan pad you're using brand new? If so these tend to dust on the first use.
How much product are you using? The 1st time I used Uber with a Flex I got dusting because I applied too much product. Prime your pad and use 3 small drops (pea sized) for each section.
 
Thanks. Yes this is the first time I've used these pads so that could be it. I'm keeping some QD close by and spritzing as I work. Seems to help.

car is looking good other than some really deep water spot etching. Different combos of TSR, UC, cyan and MF pads and it's still there. After about 12 passes I just left it.
 
I think, don't quote me, that uber is similar to fg400 which I just did a whole Ford Expedition with and ended up with dusting. With heavy compounds I think some dusting is the nature of the beast.
 
Compounds test to dust more with aggressive foam pads - ie: Hydro-Tech Cyan, Hybrid Orange, Megs Burgundy, etc.

If the dust is driving you nuts try a LC flat yellow or orange. It shouldn't dust at all then.
 
Anytime you get Dusting, it is because your product is dry, it's as simple as that..
It is dry because you ran it too long and it dried, it is as simple as that..

I always use a QD or a spray bottle to keep the pad and product just moist enough to allow the product to go through its cleaning, correcting, finishing, go away, cycles..
Just say NO to dusting.. :)
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
Anytime you get Dusting, it is because your product is dry, it's as simple as that..
It is dry because you ran it too long and it dried, it is as simple as that..

I always use a QD or a spray bottle to keep the pad and product just moist enough to allow the product to go through its cleaning, correcting, finishing, go away, cycles..
Just say NO to dusting.. :)
Dan F
Click to expand...

The qd helped but I hadn't run it long at all. It dusted after a single pass. It was just odd.

just finished polishing the Subaru. Now time for IPA wipe and apply the coating- pbl v2
 
You hit a Subaru with FG400? I thought they had notoriously soft paint, like soft enough to be corrected with 4000, or 2500 at the worst?
 
parttimer said:
You hit a Subaru with FG400? I thought they had notoriously soft paint, like soft enough to be corrected with 4000, or 2500 at the worst?
Click to expand...

Im no expert but that paint didn't seem soft at all

I ended up doing most of the vehicle with TSR and the cyan pads. I used the mf pads to spot correct heavily scratched areas, like along the base of the doors.

Did my finishing polish with Meg's UP and white CCS pads. Car came out looking pretty nice after all that and the PBL coating. About 12 hours of work. Will post pics in the brag section later.
 
jrock645 said:
The qd helped but I hadn't run it long at all. It dusted after a single pass. It was just odd.

just finished polishing the Subaru. Now time for IPA wipe and apply the coating- pbl v2
Click to expand...

How did you prime the pad ? Was it moist and then you added your compound ?

I always moisten the pad with spray bottle, add the product, see how thick, runny, etc., it is, and then determine if I might need a little more moisture before I ever touch the panel..

Im pretty sure most swirls, etc., are made because of almost dry to dry machine work and then just wiping it off in a big mess and starting over, repeating the process which will never really work..

You (I) want the product to be happy on the pad, the pad to be happy with the product, the amount of downward pressure be sufficient to get the product and pad to really get to know the panel,
the speed to be matched to the work needed on the panel, (and not ever crazy fast with a Rotary), and sufficient moisture sprayed as needed to keep everything working so that the pad can work the compound into the paint, correct, clean, polish, and then all come off on the pad at the end of the cycle, so there is always just a little if any, to wipe off..

Some paint will require many full length passes as above until the desired correction, clarity, and gloss is achieved.. But it will all come out if you are willing to work, not be distracted, pay close attention, and stay on task..
Hope it all turned out great for you !
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
How did you prime the pad ? Was it moist and then you added your compound ?

I always moisten the pad with spray bottle, add the product, see how thick, runny, etc., it is, and then determine if I might need a little more moisture before I ever touch the panel..

Im pretty sure most swirls, etc., are made because of almost dry to dry machine work and then just wiping it off in a big mess and starting over, repeating the process which will never really work..

You (I) want the product to be happy on the pad, the pad to be happy with the product, the amount of downward pressure be sufficient to get the product and pad to really get to know the panel,
the speed to be matched to the work needed on the panel, (and not ever crazy fast with a Rotary), and sufficient moisture sprayed as needed to keep everything working so that the pad can work the compound into the paint, correct, clean, polish, and then all come off on the pad at the end of the cycle, so there is always just a little if any, to wipe off..

Some paint will require many full length passes as above until the desired correction, clarity, and gloss is achieved.. But it will all come out if you are willing to work, not be distracted, pay close attention, and stay on task..
Hope it all turned out great for you !
Dan F
Click to expand...


I use the the wolfgangs pad conditioner to prime, then spread the pad with the product.

i had much better luck today with the TSR. Ended up only using the UC to spot correct and attempt to pull out those water spot etches. Even with a mf pad, no luck.

i tell you, though, the Meg's UP was beyond easy to work with. Long work time, no sling or dusting and VERY easy to wipe off. I didn't make more than 3-4 passes with it as I was mostly just trying to clean the pain before coating. I was able to work in large sections, which made the process of the final polish move very quickly. Think it took about 1.5.
 
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