winter is coming and need advice...

S

simplybao

New member
I'm still a newbie when it comes to detailing at autopia standards so I have some questions.



In a few weeks, I'm going to do a final exterior detailing on my black '08 CTS. I do have some light swirls here and there, but nothing that I'm too concerned about...i.e. I'm not going to do a polish until next season.



So in preparation for the winter, I'd like to get my paint as well protected as possible. I only have a carport at my house and it is parked in a parking deck for work. I live in Arkansas so our winter isn't too harsh. We get a little bit of ice for a couple of weeks but for the most part, it's just colder. During the winter it is too cold to hand wash, so I usually run to one of those spray it clean car washes to try to keep it clean.



I plan on doing:



1. claybar with Mother's claybar and QD.

2. Klasse AIO

3. This is the step I need help with. Ideally, I'd like to put something on after the AIO that will last the winter. I've heard Klasse glaze is very durable but hard to use. Is there anything else I can use that is durable but easier to use? By the way, I want something I can apply by hand. I have a Cyclo but I only have the grey foam pads. I don't want to invest in any other pads because I'm switching to a PC next season. I don't like the Cyclo, it's too big and I can't adjust the speed.

4. I'll be using Top of the Line Trade Secret as my LSP.
 
simplybao- Welcome to Autopia!



I'd skip the Trade Secret and just use Collinite 476S/885 over the AIO. It's what I use on some of our winter-use drivers and it offers plenty of protection. Collinite sheds dirt well, so it's good for those touchless washes.



Having both the PC and the Cyclo, I prefer the latter, but both have their pros/cons. I'd keep that Cyclo until you're sure you prefer the PC, or at least decide that you won't want 'em both.
 
you could just make an adjustment to already existing routines:

instead of a weekly wash n QD on top of the KAIO

move to a weekly wash and WOWA to build up protection until the weather gets too cold.

wash

clay

wash

KAIO

then WOWA (Z-CS / UPGP / Opti-Seal / etc)

then reapply the chosen sealant after every wash to build up for the winter
 
Thanks for the tips! Actually, the Cyclo isn't mine, but it is on sort of a permanent loan from my brother. I've never actually used it, but I have worked with him when he's used it and it looks easy enough. It's big and bulky and he says he likes the PC better.



I may experiment with it and try it on my Jeep. It has all sorts of swirls, stains, and crap on the paint.



So the Collinite will last all winter? I also have a can of Pinnacle XMT 180 that I've never used. Since coming to this site, I've been on a buying binge. What's another $ 20 - $30 on more products :D.
 
I suggest you bring up the question over on Meguiar's Online.Some of us "old-timers" over there who have seen a lot of winters will be glad to help you.



Shoot, Arkansas doesn't have real winter.



Tom :cool:
 
Although I stick pretty much to Meguiar's products I have read that AIO is a great product. If it is as easy to use as it claims to be, I suggest that you not attempt to "layer up" for the winter. In Arkansas, you for sure could do your last complete detail in late October. Then on a warm winter day in December or early January apply another coat of AOI. Do the same in February or March. This way you can take advantage of the cleaning/polishing action of AOI.



I have kept my vehicles (even the back ones) looking good through the winter as well as keeping them well-protected using this technique and I live in Nebraska. (I have used various Meguiar's one-step waxes.)



I'd be more concerned about the micro marring that you are creating at the coin-op car wash. There is a good technique for avoiding this, but it is off the topic.



Tom
 
aio usually will remove whats left of any previous lsp or aio. aio are designed to clean and protect and part of the cleaning means removing paint contamination.
 
wascallyrabbit said:
aio usually will remove whats left of any previous lsp or aio. aio are designed to clean and protect and part of the cleaning means removing paint contamination.
Click to expand...



I think that it is very hard to beat a single application of any quality cleaner/wax, wax or sealant if you use the product frequently. IMO much of layering is a myth. I typically wax my vehicles once every six to eight weeks -- sometimes longer. I last used NXT on my wife's Tacoma four months ago and it's still lookin' good. Something to do this weekend.:D



(By the way, I'm an "old guy" who has been messin' with "detailing" for over forty years.)



Tom :cool:
 
LOl...so the number of options is staggering. Well, I think I'm going to do this:



1. 2 bucket wash

2. Claybar

3. Polish using the cyclo with Top of the Line light swirl remover

4. AIO by hand

5. Collinite for the LSP



I hope that gets me through the winter. As far as the comment about micro marring, I usually do the spray by myself and not the automated one. I usually hold the nozzle about 12" away from the paint. I only do this to get the excess dirt and grime off of the car. I never touch the paint during the winter with anything...unless of course, I can do a handwash.
 
tguil said:
I think that it is very hard to beat a single application of any quality cleaner/wax, wax or sealant if you use the product frequently. IMO much of layering is a myth. I typically wax my vehicles once every six to eight weeks -- sometimes longer. I last used NXT on my wife's Tacoma four months ago and it's still lookin' good. Something to do this weekend.:D



(By the way, I'm an "old guy" who has been messin' with "detailing" for over forty years.)



Tom :cool:
Click to expand...



never meant to imply that aio is only for cleaning. all of the aio's that i've tried will quite easily last six to eight weeks some longer. i agree with you that aio can be used satisfactorily by its self on a base for a lsp.
 
simplybao said:
I'm still a newbie when it comes to detailing at autopia standards so I have some questions.



In a few weeks, I'm going to do a final exterior detailing on my black '08 CTS. I do have some light swirls here and there, but nothing that I'm too concerned about...i.e. I'm not going to do a polish until next season.



So in preparation for the winter, I'd like to get my paint as well protected as possible. I only have a carport at my house and it is parked in a parking deck for work. I live in Arkansas so our winter isn't too harsh. We get a little bit of ice for a couple of weeks but for the most part, it's just colder. During the winter it is too cold to hand wash, so I usually run to one of those spray it clean car washes to try to keep it clean.



I plan on doing:



1. claybar with Mother's claybar and QD.

2. Klasse AIO

3. This is the step I need help with. Ideally, I'd like to put something on after the AIO that will last the winter. I've heard Klasse glaze is very durable but hard to use. Is there anything else I can use that is durable but easier to use? By the way, I want something I can apply by hand. I have a Cyclo but I only have the grey foam pads. I don't want to invest in any other pads because I'm switching to a PC next season. I don't like the Cyclo, it's too big and I can't adjust the speed.

4. I'll be using Top of the Line Trade Secret as my LSP.
Click to expand...



IMO step 4. “The Permanent Auto Wax� Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax #476 by Collinite. also, is the clay your using the one from pepboys? I used that about 10 years ago when I first started using clay, but you can def find a better clay on AG or somewhere else. What kind of wheel protection are you going to do? Don't forget about the wheels! :welcomeI like Wheel Wax a lot!
 
For the claybar, I am using Mother's gold clay bar, should I use something else? And I've never waxed the wheels before. What should I use there?



I'm going to buy a can of the collinite.



And I think I'm going to go ahead and polish using the Cyclo. But I am totally confused about what to get and what to use.



There are specific pads for the Cyclo and I believe for my light imperfections, I'll just use the blue pads and get some 1Z Lack Politur.



So my new process will be:



1. 2 bucket wash. I'm using a grit guard and TOTL shampoo

2. Clay bar -- should I use something other than Mother's? I'm getting ready to place an order so I can order a new one at the same time.

3. Polish using Cyclo, blue pads with the 1Z

4. Klasse AIO by hand

5. Collinite which is better 476 or 885? by hand
 
simplybao said:
For the claybar, I am using Mother's gold clay bar, should I use something else? And I've never waxed the wheels before. What should I use there?



I'm going to buy a can of the collinite.



And I think I'm going to go ahead and polish using the Cyclo. But I am totally confused about what to get and what to use.



There are specific pads for the Cyclo and I believe for my light imperfections, I'll just use the blue pads and get some 1Z Lack Politur.



So my new process will be:



1. 2 bucket wash. I'm using a grit guard and TOTL shampoo

2. Clay bar -- should I use something other than Mother's? I'm getting ready to place an order so I can order a new one at the same time.

3. Polish using Cyclo, blue pads with the 1Z

4. Klasse AIO by hand

5. Collinite which is better 476 or 885? by hand
Click to expand...



I prefer 476 myself, I use a pc to apply the wax and take off by hand. I'm not familiar with the cyclo, but if you search for answears there def will be some. I would look on AG's site for other clay bars. Do the plastci bag test on your paint to see how rough it is, and if it seems really bad, you may want to get a more aggressive clay. Good luck!
 
simplybao- If you're using the 1Z Paint Polish (very good choice IMO), don't use the KAIO after it. All the KAIO will do is clean off the wax that the PP leaves behind, replacing it with the stuff that the KAIO leaves behind, which isn't any better IMO.



Just polish with the 1Z PP then apply the Collinite. That combo works great and adding the KAIO step wouldn't improve things any.



I've never used the blue Cyclo pads, but they oughta work OK. I'd be a little surprised if the PP/blue combo was aggressive enough to do all the correction that's required though, and I'd want to have some green Cyclo pads on hand anyhow.



The 885 FleetWax and the 476S Super DoubleCoat are the same stuff in different size tins. By hand or by Cyclo, whichever you find you prefer (the tin for the 885 would be easier to use when working by machine).



wascallyrabbit said:
i would still use the cyclo with the kaio. you can do by hand but why if you have a cyclo?
Click to expand...



Because IME the Cyclo/KAIO is simply one of those combinations that does *NOT* work well.



The Cyclo flashes the AIO very fast, often/usually resulting in a very tenacious residue..and I mean *very*, it can be an incredible PIA to get it off the paint without causing marring. The last time it happened I had to spend forever getting the residue off and then start over with the polishing.



For work like this via Cyclo, I'd use a different product, like AutoGlym SRP.
 
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