Windshield wiper arms:

coogie mahn said:
What is the method used for the wiper arms,(at the base area) to bring the black faded area back to black again?
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I have used AIO with great success. I did it via a PC white a polishing pad on about 4. Im sure you could do this by hand though. If AIO doesnt work try other polishes. Remember try the least abrasive product first.

HtH

Greg
 
stluciedetail said:
just take them off and paint them.
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Yup. I scuff em with a scotchbrite pad to remove any oxidation or any contaminants and leave a surface ready to adhere paint. I used a Hi-Temp flat black paint to refinish.
 
GSRstilez said:
Yup. I scuff em with a scotchbrite pad to remove any oxidation or any contaminants and leave a surface ready to adhere paint. I used a Hi-Temp flat black paint to refinish.
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What paint would you suggest using from like an Acehardware?
Any gloss? Could you add a clearcoat?

Thanks

Greg
 
GregCavi said:
What paint would you suggest using from like an Acehardware?
Any gloss? Could you add a clearcoat?

Thanks

Greg
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Use an acrylic base spray paint and go with a flat for your wiper arms. No need to worry about clearcoating them. Make sure you clean them very well before painting. Scuff them up with a scotchbright or you can sand them lightly with 600 grit sand paper to prep them for paint.
 
Kiwi Honor Gaurd Leather Dye (in glass bottle) from drug store.

I was redoing fadded grill on 1991 Range Rover and got some on headlight. Took lacquer thinner to get it off. Tranparent black. I used it on a few other plastic areas, then covered them with Meq. Endurance Gel. Don't think it would be good for large/flat area.

AIO sound good for larger painted surface like the big I-beam-like bumper on the Range Rover.
 
denverdetail said:
Use an acrylic base spray paint and go with a flat for your wiper arms. No need to worry about clearcoating them. Make sure you clean them very well before painting. Scuff them up with a scotchbright or you can sand them lightly with 600 grit sand paper to prep them for paint.
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I'm no paint expert but two automotive types, enamel and lacquer. Most auto touch-up paint is lacquer, fast drying. Almost all cars today are enamel. Obviously lacquer can be put on enamel. But if using lacquer base paint then primer and clear coat should be same. Like wise for enamel base, all enamel.

I had some acrylic black spray I used on ventilation intake under wiper blades on Porsche 911. It did not say enamel so I prep'd surface and wiped with lacquer thinner. Paint came out crinkled which was fine but it must have been the acrylic was enamel & did not like the lacq. thinner.
 
Actually the lacquer thinner probably caused the original paint to soften and when the new paint was applied the crinkling occured. Lacquer thinner/paint will disolve plain enamel paint. Acrylic Enamel if catalyzed is usually impervious to lacquer. Todays clearcoats are urethane based (a hardener is added just like when mixing epoxy) and are usually not affected by lacquer or enamel. Wiper blades and other painted trim pieces are not usually clearcoated and most of the time lacquer and acrylic enamel thinner will affect the finish.
Back to the original question ... If the finish is just faded, Klasse AIO should bring them back to life. If the paint is peeling or they are rusty, sand with 400-600 grit paper, apply a light coat of primer to all bare metal and spray with a semi gloss paint. Dupli-color makes a good line of touch-up spray paint for this type of repair and can be found at Wal-mart and most auto parts stores. Rustoleum would work too but it takes a long time to dry.
Probably more than you needed to know, but hope it helps
 
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