Will glazing remove coating?
- Thread starter bcgreen
- Start date
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
What is the product you speak of ? Cant really answer the question until you tell us what it is.. Just guessing it might be, say, the Meguiars Glaze everyone used to use at car shows, no, it wont do anything except gunk up your coating with stuff it doesnt need..
Normally, nothing removes a coating easily, except a compound or a polish, and eventually enough time, and it might wear off..
And how long the coating stays on the paint has a lot to do with many factors, including how well the paintwork was prepared before the coating was applied, how the paintwork was treated after the coating was applied, dried, and cured, etc...
What you use to wash the car since the coating was applied makes a difference also, in how the coating acts, later..
Dan F
You`re correct about Meguiar`s I used 205. I had a bunch of light surface scratches on the rear bumper on a Mini. This is an area that gets the most fine dirt to accumulate. The rest of the car remains clean enough that it doesn`t need my attention as the rear does.
I didn`t have any more Opti-Coat from many years ago, so I just applied what I had on hand, namely BF sealant. I understand it may not have done any bonding, but my next wash will show if the sealant worked.
I didn`t have any more Opti-Coat from many years ago, so I just applied what I had on hand, namely BF sealant. I understand it may not have done any bonding, but my next wash will show if the sealant worked.
Accumulator
Well-known member
I`m confused...
bcgreen- Did you use M205 (a Finishing Polish) or a glaze? If you used M205 I`d expect it to have removed/cut through the Coating.
bcgreen- Did you use M205 (a Finishing Polish) or a glaze? If you used M205 I`d expect it to have removed/cut through the Coating.
I`ve caught a cold and I am not thinking clearly, I see that I used the polish and not the glaze that I intended.
Well anyway when I am clear headed, if I use M80 will that effect the Opti-Coat?
Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgreen- Ah, OK...hope you`re better soon. Oh yeah...M80 = Speed Glaze , that makes sense now.
The stuff that M80 leaves behind might cause the bonding issues you`re worried about, so I`d do a solvent wipe or somesuch to clean that off.
The stuff that M80 leaves behind might cause the bonding issues you`re worried about, so I`d do a solvent wipe or somesuch to clean that off.
It`s interesting that the abrasive level is 4, on both M205 and M80, and yet glaze is not supposed to remove paint. I have to be careful because one area on the rear hatch I had removed the clear and was getting paint resedue on the pad. I am going to purchase a coating material once I find one that is similar to Opti-Coat since they have pushed the price to the point that I am forced to look at other coatings at a better price level.
You were the one that got me to use Opti-Coat originally.
Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgreen- Heh heh, isn`t *that* something, my getting you to try a coating! I`m one of the least coating-centric detailers on here!
Yeah, Mike and I used to get into it (in a friendly way) about the, uhm...inventive...ways that Meguiar`s uses words.
Glaze/Polish/Cleaner...those words mean whatever Meguiar`s wants them to as far as they`re concerned.
Interesting about the M80 being the same Abrasive Level as M205; I used *gallons* of M80 and enough M205 to know that the level (not just the nature) of cut is completely different. M205 is more aggressive than M80, at least IME; I`ve used `em both on the same surfaces and it seemed obvious.
Yeah, Mike and I used to get into it (in a friendly way) about the, uhm...inventive...ways that Meguiar`s uses words.
Glaze/Polish/Cleaner...those words mean whatever Meguiar`s wants them to as far as they`re concerned.
Interesting about the M80 being the same Abrasive Level as M205; I used *gallons* of M80 and enough M205 to know that the level (not just the nature) of cut is completely different. M205 is more aggressive than M80, at least IME; I`ve used `em both on the same surfaces and it seemed obvious.
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
Accumulator -- Correct on all points !
The only thing we don`t know is how bcgreen applied the product prior to coating and post coating... Machine ? Which one? Pad/s? Which ones, brand, size.. Process? What was used for final wipe down/cleaning, before coating? How many coats? How long in Drying? How long in Curing?
Dan F
I think I can answer that even though it was way back in 2006 or so. Once all surface defects were removed I washed down each panel with IP and applied the product according to diections that came with the product namely a foam pad and I believe it was 4 - to 6 drops by hand. One coat as most everyone said more than one coat was a waste. I let it sit for a day when the temps were in mid 70s. Was a very sarisfying result with a just waxed look after each and every washing. Same process to a black Infiniti that was just awesome after each washing until I sold it.
Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgreen- Note that depending how you do it, you can get the stuff M80 leaves behind to layer a bit. Yeah, I know...supposedly impossible with diminishing-abrasive products but it can be done with many of `em.
I`m not a big fan of IPA for stripping oils/etc., minimally effective on the Trade Secret Oils in the Meguiar`s stuff I`ve used. BUT it might be enough to strip the M80`s stuff, I just don`t know. I`d use something made for Prep, but that`s just me and people do love using IPA for various things.
I`m not a big fan of IPA for stripping oils/etc., minimally effective on the Trade Secret Oils in the Meguiar`s stuff I`ve used. BUT it might be enough to strip the M80`s stuff, I just don`t know. I`d use something made for Prep, but that`s just me and people do love using IPA for various things.