Will Claying remove Sealant/Wax

It depends who you ask, and what clay you use. Some clays are gentler than others. I know Accumulator is confident that he is able to clay without removing the LSP, and I trust his opinion.

I only clay before full details anyway, so I'm going to polish either way. Thus, it makes no difference to me whether the LSP is removed during the clay step or the polish step.
 
So what are you trying to do? Are you hoping to remove some contamination without the need to apply more wax/sealant? Or are you planning to start a whole new process on the car?
 
If the goal is to remove the LSP, then I'd use a polish rather than relying on (just) the clay to do it. But I'd clay too just because I always clay when redoing a detail.



As for whether the clay will, generally speaking, remove the LSP, a few things to consider:



How experienced are you at claying? Most people clay more aggressively than they oughta, especially when they first start doing it.



How healthy is the LSP? If it's almost gone anyhow then it'll be easy to "clay through".



Is the contamination you're trying to remove under the LSP or in/on top of the LSP? If it's under it, you'll have to clay through the LSP to get to it anyhow.
 
The Sealant/Wax is 2-3 weeks old and I want to remove it and start all over. I have lots of time on my hands and to to experiment with different combos.



I'm gonna use the sonus sfx ultra fine clay and follow it up with FPII. What do you guys think...
 
If the car doesnt need claying ie no bonded contaimination I would rather use a mild paint cleaner and start the new combos that way.
 
I agreee with RichT, and the green Sonus clay won't do much to a fresh LSP anyhow.



One good paint cleaner that's commonly available is Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step #1.



Otherwise the FPII will cut through it, but the LSP might gum up the pads a little.
 
A chemical paint cleaner will be easier on the paint than even a very mild abrasive like FPII. But we're talking such a small difference that it's almost just theoretical. In real life, you're almost certainly not gonna do any harm with FPII no matter how often you use it.



If you mean white/black pads as in polishing/finishing, then it'll depend on your paint and choice of product. Some products load up on finishing pads, but some paints are so delicate that you don't want to use a polishing pad. In most cases it won't matter. On hard paints I use a polishing pad, on soft ones I use a finishing pad.
 
On hard paints I use a polishing pad, on soft ones I use a finishing pad.[/QUOTE]





How do I know if a paint is hard or soft? I'm new at this so I'm like a dry sponge trying to obsorb all the information I can.
 
You can't really say whether a paint is hard or soft unless you're able to compare it to another paint. It's all relative. Some paints are harder than others.
 
Yeah, it's all relative, which doesn't really help much huh?



What I'd do is use the FPII. Find some light marring (any car's gonna have some somewhere) and see if the FPII takes it out and if so how easily it cuts. Some paints, like Audis, just laugh at FPII while others, like single stage lacquer, correct really easily even with such a mild polish. See where your paint lies on the continuum.
 
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