I have read on here that I can use a spray bottle of Isopryol(spelling?) Alcohol diluted 50/50 to remove old wax from the paint. I would like to use this method because i think it would be a faster way to clean the paint of old wax etc. before polishing, but I would also like to use the same spray bottle to strip sealents too. My question is, Will the 50/50 ratio Alcohol/water mix be strong enough to strip sealants too not just carnuba waxes or would I have to use a stronger ratio? If so, what dilution ratio would I have to use? And last, Is there a certain type of Isopryol Alcohol that I should be buying? Seems like there are a few different kinds avaliable and want to make sure i am buying the right stuff to use on automotive paints. Thanks for the help.
Will 50/50 Alcohol Mix Strip Sealents Too?
- Thread starter SR77
- Start date
Bill D
Hooked For Life
I used 50/50 up to 70% IA to strip Klasse SG during my detail. ( IA is IA, doesn't matter the brand) I also used it inbetween the 1z polishes to get rid of the waxes they leave behind. Everything worked well and my new coat of AIO and SG bonded just fine. :up
Hey I heard that deal about using alcohol mix to remove the old wax etc too. I used to have an acura with graphics on it, and i used it to remove the residue left behind when i stripped them off and the old wax to. However for what you really want to gain, alcohol isn't really effective. It will remove the wax, but it won't remove contaminates that have settled or found their way into the paint pores.
Here is a tip.....
Wash your car, then take a piece of the clear wrapper on a pack of cigarettes. put it between your fingers and the paint surface. Most likely you will feel a really rough surface. Take the wrapper away and run your fingers over it, it will feel smooth. Our sense of touch isn't significant enough to pick it up without using something like the wrapper to amplify the imperfections.
Those rough feeling particles are contaminates that have breached your wax and/or sealant. Alcohol will not remove them, even after removing wax.
Here is what I have found to be the quickest and easiest way to get top notch results................ Wash the car with a strong soap like dawn dish soap. (this soap actually removes wax). Then take a clay bar (any old clay bar, because they all get them from the same place only 1 company in world actually makes them) cheap is fine. When wet, clay rub the entire car. You don't need clay lube, water is fine.. Rubbing the entire car vigorously should take about 20-30 minutes. By now, no wax is left on the car.
Then use a good Pre-Cleaner Wax to remove any minor scratches, residual oxidization or residues left behind. I recommend Amino-UV's Restoration Pre-Cleaner (fairly new product). After you use RPC, the paint will look extremely consistant and fresh, but not glossy. That makes a good foundation for a sealant. Then apply your sealant or polish.
You will have better results that way. Using the pre-cleaner just makes the sealant have a "better" bond and makes it last longer.
NOW, run your fingers over the car with the wrapper, guaranteed, your car has never felt so slick or been as shiny. Recently i tried the Amino UV Polymer Sealant on my Audi and the Poorboys on my wifes Honda. Though Poorboys worked well. I think the Amino UV works the best! Good Luck.
Here is a tip.....
Wash your car, then take a piece of the clear wrapper on a pack of cigarettes. put it between your fingers and the paint surface. Most likely you will feel a really rough surface. Take the wrapper away and run your fingers over it, it will feel smooth. Our sense of touch isn't significant enough to pick it up without using something like the wrapper to amplify the imperfections.
Those rough feeling particles are contaminates that have breached your wax and/or sealant. Alcohol will not remove them, even after removing wax.
Here is what I have found to be the quickest and easiest way to get top notch results................ Wash the car with a strong soap like dawn dish soap. (this soap actually removes wax). Then take a clay bar (any old clay bar, because they all get them from the same place only 1 company in world actually makes them) cheap is fine. When wet, clay rub the entire car. You don't need clay lube, water is fine.. Rubbing the entire car vigorously should take about 20-30 minutes. By now, no wax is left on the car.
Then use a good Pre-Cleaner Wax to remove any minor scratches, residual oxidization or residues left behind. I recommend Amino-UV's Restoration Pre-Cleaner (fairly new product). After you use RPC, the paint will look extremely consistant and fresh, but not glossy. That makes a good foundation for a sealant. Then apply your sealant or polish.
You will have better results that way. Using the pre-cleaner just makes the sealant have a "better" bond and makes it last longer.
NOW, run your fingers over the car with the wrapper, guaranteed, your car has never felt so slick or been as shiny. Recently i tried the Amino UV Polymer Sealant on my Audi and the Poorboys on my wifes Honda. Though Poorboys worked well. I think the Amino UV works the best! Good Luck.
LouisanaJeeper
New member
it will remove sealants
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
For stripping wax/sealants: 3M Prepsol, Hightemp's Prep-Solve, Akyra's Klean Cleaner. :up
Those listed above will remove ALL wax and ALL sealant! No guessing if it was removed... it was, trust me. :xyxthumbs
Drink the alcohol, use a solvent designed for stripping wax/sealants, fillers oils etc! That's your best bet!
There are tools/chemicals just designed for a specific job. Problem always is finding it and using it correctly.
Regards,
Deanski
Those listed above will remove ALL wax and ALL sealant! No guessing if it was removed... it was, trust me. :xyxthumbs
Drink the alcohol, use a solvent designed for stripping wax/sealants, fillers oils etc! That's your best bet!
There are tools/chemicals just designed for a specific job. Problem always is finding it and using it correctly.
Regards,
Deanski
Accumulator
Well-known member
Deanski said:
Well, it will *usually* remove it. When they fixed the deer-damage to the S8, PrepSol and other prep-solvents wouldn't remove my UPP (formerly Platinum) over 1z MP. They finally had to resort to lacquer thinner, and they were *very* curious about what I had on there!
But generally, yeah, IA will remove sealants, the above-mentioned solvents will remove most *evrything*. Undiluted EFHI works great, too, but is probably a little hard on the paint.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
~One man’s opinion / observations ~
“Wash the car with a strong soap like dawn dish soap. (this soap actually removes wax).�
And oil from the resin (paint) system, why use a dishwashing liquid when there are products specifically formulated to wash paint film surfaces, and to remove wax / sealants(i.e. PrepSol)?
“Then take a clay bar (any old clay bar, because they all get them from the same place only 1 company in world actually makes them) cheap is fine. When wet, clay rub the entire car. You don't need clay lube, water is fine.. Rubbing the entire car vigorously should take about 20-30 minutes. By now, no wax is left on the car.�
There is only one patent for detailers clay, but quite a few manufacturers and various materials are used (Kaolin, polymer, etc) You may find that plain water will cause clay to disintegrate. * I * would do a section at a time, wipe the surface to see if the imbedded contaminants have been removed, if so, move on to the next section.
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*
“Wash the car with a strong soap like dawn dish soap. (this soap actually removes wax).�
And oil from the resin (paint) system, why use a dishwashing liquid when there are products specifically formulated to wash paint film surfaces, and to remove wax / sealants(i.e. PrepSol)?
“Then take a clay bar (any old clay bar, because they all get them from the same place only 1 company in world actually makes them) cheap is fine. When wet, clay rub the entire car. You don't need clay lube, water is fine.. Rubbing the entire car vigorously should take about 20-30 minutes. By now, no wax is left on the car.�
There is only one patent for detailers clay, but quite a few manufacturers and various materials are used (Kaolin, polymer, etc) You may find that plain water will cause clay to disintegrate. * I * would do a section at a time, wipe the surface to see if the imbedded contaminants have been removed, if so, move on to the next section.
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*
Thanks for the replys. Bill D can you explain what you mean when you said, I used 50/50 up to 70% IA.
Also, Is 3m's Prep Solvent safe to use on all Paints and does anyone think it would be a better choice over the Rubbing Alcohol. Will the Prepsol perform better then the Alcohol. I know there is a big cost difference between the 2 but if the Prepsol works that much better at removing wax and sealants, then i will buy that. Thanks again
Also, Is 3m's Prep Solvent safe to use on all Paints and does anyone think it would be a better choice over the Rubbing Alcohol. Will the Prepsol perform better then the Alcohol. I know there is a big cost difference between the 2 but if the Prepsol works that much better at removing wax and sealants, then i will buy that. Thanks again
Bill D
Hooked For Life
I used 50% IA 50% water up to 70% IA different ratios thats all
Accumulator
Well-known member
SR77- As far as I know (yeah, that's a disclaimer 
) PrepSol is safe for all paints once they are dry. I dunno about waxes, but the IA worked just fine for removing SG, so I wouldn't bother getting the PrepSol if you don't have other uses for it (prep for touch-ups, for instance). *I* like having it around, but then, I, uhm, accumulate things...
) PrepSol is safe for all paints once they are dry. I dunno about waxes, but the IA worked just fine for removing SG, so I wouldn't bother getting the PrepSol if you don't have other uses for it (prep for touch-ups, for instance). *I* like having it around, but then, I, uhm, accumulate things...