why am I getting swirls?

I

imported_thecarguy

New member
I just bought a Chicago Tools rotary last week. I tried it out an dit looked like I did it well until the hood was in full sun. I attempted to go back over the middle of the hood with Meguiers polishing pad and #82 again to remove swirls. but it caused more swirls (see picture).



Here's my technique (that is causing more swirls):

- prime pad with several squirts of DQ

- initially put #82 on pad in X pattern

- rub over surface area

- start buffer going from side to side slowly - 4"/second

- it dries really fast so I add a bead of product and go over on slwo speed at angle to pick it up

- go over same area until product dries

- wipe off with 50% water and 50% alcohol to see how it's doing



I have attached a picture of my pad as well.



I am thinking I use to little product.



Do I need to buff until it's dry and clear?



Any ideas on how to remove those swirls with the rotary buffer - I do not have a PC - are much appreciated!



Here are picture links:

hood

pad
 
I think you are talking about buffer trails....you need to step down the speed and switch pads IMO, or polish out with a PC/hand....that chicago electric polisher was junk for me so I threw it away! mine would speed up and slow down whenever it wanted to, no constant pressure, and jumped around!
 
thecarguy said:
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- go over same area until product dries

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Click to expand...
That's probably it right there.



You shouldn't work it till it's dry. That's called a "dry buff" and once the oils have dried out the loss of lubrication sets you up for swirls.



How large an area are you doing? You should buff long enough to break down the diminishing abrasives in the #82 but not so long that it goes dry. When it's buffed down correctly the film will be very thin, slightly wet, kind of "smearable" and almost clear. If it's drying out before it gets to that point you may be trying to use too much and/or work too large an area.



Finishing wet makes it much easier to wipe off too.



Don't forget to clean your pad often.





PC.
 
DARKSTI said:
yea, those are buffer trails. Do you have a PC? Use that with some #82 on a cutting pad.
Click to expand...



I dunno if I'd use #82 with a cutting pad...it's a pretty mild product for such an aggressive pad. I only use cutting pads with much more aggressive products.



thecarguy- As The Other PC said, don't buff Meg's polishes dry, that's not how they're supposed to be used. But you're not the only person who's found "Swirl-free Polish" to be not exactly "swirl-free". IMO there are easier products to use if you don't feel like struggling with that one.
 
A good product to learn with is Optimum Car Polish as the long work time and low cut gives you plenty of room for error. If you have that then give it a go with a polishing pad.
 
Accumulator - you recommend the Optimum as well? if not, what other products?



WHat I find is that the product dries in about 30 seconds and I think I am using a lot! is that normal?
 
thecarguy said:
Accumulator - you recommend the Optimum as well? if not, what other products?
Click to expand...



I'm not familiar with Optimum, but plenty of people, whose opinions I respect, do like it.



I generally use the old 3M PI-III stuff (RC 05933 and MG 05937) and finish with 1Z Pro MP. Unfortunately these products have all been discontinued and are getting hard to find. If I needed to buy something, I'd probably go with Menzerna's line.
 
I'm recommending it for learning because it has such a long work time and low cut level. It's pretty much "bubba proof" in that you almost have to try to do something wrong to hurt anything. My choice for routine polishing/compounding is the Menzerna polishes.:D
 
People use the different terms for various types of marring in *so* many different ways that it's tough to generalize..but I'd say that "trails" are more severe than holograms. Same kinda thing though.
 
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