Which polisher to consider next and why?

Raymoche

New member
So, I am starting to consider another tool in my arsenal...

I have the flex 3401, its great, its heavy, its a work horse, and it works well.

I recently got a rupes Nano, its great, it works wonderfully, but there are things that can improve...

So I was looking into either grabbing a (non forced rotation) DA, or a rotary, leaning on the rotary because it can be much faster... but I am not sure.

I am open to any brand for consideration but if you were in my position, what would you get to fill the void so to speak....

I can do most of my work with just the two so maybe I don`t need anything? more like a quality of life purchase...
I`d like something a little more quiet (that 3401 my goodness...) but I would also like something that can work as fast or faster than the 3401.
But i`d also like something that is almost as precise as the nano, but a bit more powerful and maybe a but larger... 1" rotary is very... specialized.. if thats the right word for it.
 
Rupes mini

Ron has a good suggestion,I use a 3401 in combo with my Rupes mini for edging and smaller areas. I also use a PE-14 for edging and small areas that need precision that a DA can`t give because of the stroke 12mm. The Flex PE-14 with extension can work at 1" and speeds so slow that you will fall asleep and it is so quiet. If you are scared to use a rotary just use a extra fine finishing polish to practice with and keep keep it slow.
 
I`ve been considering a rotary for a while, I only use the Rupes nano as a 1" rotary tool to get all the edges and corners (not a huge fan of the correcting speed of the RO, its good but its too slow, I usually hit up the spot or small area with the 1" then do a larger area with my 3401 for spot repairs). I THINK my technique is okay with the rotary but there is always room to improve lol.

Yeah... so I was pretty much originally considering the PE8, then someone told me PE14 has trigger control (sexy), then Rupes Mini sounds real good... if only I had unlimited budget for this stuff.

PE14 is definitely on top of my list with a Rupes mini at a close second, very close.

Ron has a good suggestion,I use a 3401 in combo with my Rupes mini for edging and smaller areas. I also use a PE-14 for edging and small areas that need precision that a DA can`t give because of the stroke 12mm. The Flex PE-14 with extension can work at 1" and speeds so slow that you will fall asleep and it is so quiet. If you are scared to use a rotary just use a extra fine finishing polish to practice with and keep keep it slow.
 
Raymoche- Noting that I have PCs/Cyclos/3" pneumatic RO/rotaries/Flex3401...I`d recommend one of the very few polishers I do eventually plan to, uhm...accumulate-

Rupes Mini.

It and the Nano would be perfect for my XJS, which I`ve recently gotten out of mothballs. Since you already have the Nano, that seems like an easy choice unless you need something that`ll cover large areas quickly (say..to improve upon the finish left by your Flex 3401).

I know that this is Autopia, where everybody`s a Rotary Meister and nobody except me gets holograms...but I`ve run rotaries quite a bit (since the `70s) and if I find it tricky to finish out hologram-free on some b/c paints then I expect that others might too. How much you willing to put into the learning curve of a rotary? If I thought they were All That I`d use mine, but they just sit on the shelf; today`s products/pads/polishers have changed the game for me in that I no longer need my rotaries for anything.
 
Raymoche- Noting that I have PCs/Cyclos/3" pneumatic RO/rotaries/Flex3401...I`d recommend one of the very few polishers I do eventually plan to, uhm...accumulate-

Rupes Mini.

It and the Nano would be perfect for my XJS, which I`ve recently gotten out of mothballs. Since you already have the Nano, that seems like an easy choice unless you need something that`ll cover large areas quickly (say..to improve upon the finish left by your Flex 3401).

I know that this is Autopia, where everybody`s a Rotary Meister and nobody except me gets holograms...but I`ve run rotaries quite a bit (since the `70s) and if I find it tricky to finish out hologram-free on some b/c paints then I expect that others might too. How much you willing to put into the learning curve of a rotary? If I thought they were All That I`d use mine, but they just sit on the shelf; today`s products/pads/polishers have changed the game for me in that I no longer need my rotaries for anything.

Great response, Accum.
add to cart, one Rupes mini.
 
My rupes mini is my favorite machine. And I own the 21, 15 and Nano. LN

It fits in 99 percent of the places I need it to and it`s very easy to control on curved panels. If I detailed for a living I`d use the larger machine on big panels but I`m lazy and don`t want to clean more pads so I just use the mini everywhere takes a little mm fee but the results are stellar.
 
I know that this is Autopia, where everybody`s a Rotary Meister and nobody except me gets holograms...but I`ve run rotaries quite a bit (since the `70s) and if I find it tricky to finish out hologram-free on some b/c paints then I expect that others might too. How much you willing to put into the learning curve of a rotary? If I thought they were All That I`d use mine, but they just sit on the shelf; today`s products/pads/polishers have changed the game for me in that I no longer need my rotaries for anything.


I haven`t picked up a rotary since early 80`s.........

I hear they`re much lighter now.
 
I just bought my second Dewalt 849x. I started on a rotary polisher three years ago and it`s still my primary tool. I love it`s versatility and the fact that in less than 5 seconds I can change the backing plate based on the panel I`m correcting. It`s perfect for me because I use low speeds and heavy pressure. I have 6 different backing plates ranging from 2-7inches. If I`m removing sanding marks with a 2 inch pad and backing plate (even though I`ve already preordered the new griot`s pneumatic 2 inch/3 inch micro rotary) the weight of the 849x and the single axis rotation provides sense of control without feeling "tippy"

I tried the flex 3401 but the counter clockwise rotation was difficult for me to adjust too, so even though the PE-14 is probably a superior engineered tool that is light weight and incredibly ergonomic, but both tools have the latest and greatest soft start feature and share the same low speed setting of 600rpms.

All that said, if you have a flex and are accustomed to it`s counter-clockwise rotation, I`d say the PE-14 is most likely the ideal tool in your world. One last thing I wanted to add, my Mk II is great and I use it often, but a draw back I`ve recognized using a long throw machine and even an 8mm, it`s extremely difficult to correct paint within a 1/2 inch of textured plastic trim and I am not a fan of taping. Having a rotary that you can count on for those spots that you need precision (door jambs, sharp contours, headlights, around trim and emblems, b-pillars) is a huge time saver and in many ways a much safer option. IME
 
In the ideal world I can have 2, lol...

I can see a clear split for a mini and pe14 here, and I can understand why.
 
In the ideal world I can have 2, lol...

I can see a clear split for a mini and pe14 here, and I can understand why.



I have the Mini, great tool, power, 12mm not 8mm, small body size has an advantage at times.
But I did purchase the Mini with the idea of getting the PE14 next (have the PE8 for now).
Edges and a Rotary makes sense to me, with the power of the Mini to back it up, getting the tight areas. My Boss 15 the larger areas.
Rotary, Mini, 15mm. For me this is a killer combo.
 
A few thoughts...

I have a small collection (or large depending on your view) of machines.
It includes everything from a PC7424xp, to Rupes, to Flex PE14 rotary.
My favorite flat machine is the Rupes 21 with a 5" backing plate.

Yes, I have a Flex 3401. It is a beast. I prefer something more gentle.
Personally, I can not tell you the last time I picked up the 3401 or a rotary.
IMHO Is the 21 "as fast or faster than the 3401"? No, but it is lighter and safer.

Try this with your 3401

IMHO different machines do different jobs. That is why there is a variety.
Here is a short video on a few of the different machines with pros and cons.


Now on to your situation.
You have a Flex 3401 and you like it. Many folks don`t care for the weight & "pull".
Currently you have a full size (3401) and Rupes nano. (I call it the Lightsaber)
You are missing the middle. This is where the Rupes 3" mini would fill your void.

My thoughts...
My go-to machines are the Rupes 21 (5"BP), Rupes 3" mini and recently the Ibrid nano.
That said with a rotary and a small DA (PC, Griots etc.) I can still finish out very clean.
Speed is not everything. OEM clear coat is VERY thin. Use the least aggressive method.
Do you have a paint thickness gauge?

NOTE: If you choose the Rupes LHR 75E Mini don`t be afraid to use a little down pressure.
 
I have a Defelsko, that I trust.

I am leaning towards the MINI more, since it seems to fill the void nicely, and then in the future consider a rotary.

I`ve recently got a lot of wet sanding work, so I was just thinking a rotary, then 3401 might clean up a lot faster, but who knows, perhaps the mini can save time by cutting out a step, after all 15-30 seconds longer on one machine is probably less time than machine 1, wiping, switch to machine 2, apply compound/polish, work, wipe.
 
My Milwaukee rotary is a heavy beast but if I`m buffing a car out cause of some serious swirls and deeper marring I`ll pull it out and use wool pads then follow with one of my DAs. Just quicker that way


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