When to use rubbing compound?
- Thread starter dfoxengr
- Start date
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Proceed with this in mind; always choose the least intrusive product, it is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination. Before commencing polishing do a test panel on the car, once you have achieved the desired results with your selected polish / pad combination then proceed to polish the rest of the panels
This is the only way to find out the challenge ahead, if you take nothing else away from this article let it be this; diagnosis is the key, not guesswork. This cannot be stressed enough especially for anyone new to paint correction. Paint systems differ, and the approach needed to correct them will differ accordingly.
Select a ‘typical’ panel; one that represents the type of defects that you want to remove and the finish level required. Select an area of 18 x 18-inches and tape it off with painter’s tape, as this is an optimal working section to perform a product test spot; this will help establish a polish – pad combination that will produce the best possible finish that corresponds to your detailing goals for the vehicle. Pay attention to how the paint is responding to your inputs. Stop and evaluate your progress, once this is established; repeat the process over the entire paint surface, adjusting abrasiveness for any low paint thickness.
There may be some areas that have deeper scratches, which will necessitate a more abrasive polish. This is known a ‘spot-correction’. Once this area(s) are completed revert to the original polish / pad combination, there is no need to remove any more clear coat than is necessary
This is the only way to find out the challenge ahead, if you take nothing else away from this article let it be this; diagnosis is the key, not guesswork. This cannot be stressed enough especially for anyone new to paint correction. Paint systems differ, and the approach needed to correct them will differ accordingly.
Select a ‘typical’ panel; one that represents the type of defects that you want to remove and the finish level required. Select an area of 18 x 18-inches and tape it off with painter’s tape, as this is an optimal working section to perform a product test spot; this will help establish a polish – pad combination that will produce the best possible finish that corresponds to your detailing goals for the vehicle. Pay attention to how the paint is responding to your inputs. Stop and evaluate your progress, once this is established; repeat the process over the entire paint surface, adjusting abrasiveness for any low paint thickness.
There may be some areas that have deeper scratches, which will necessitate a more abrasive polish. This is known a ‘spot-correction’. Once this area(s) are completed revert to the original polish / pad combination, there is no need to remove any more clear coat than is necessary
tom p.
Active member
dfoxengr said:
D, welcome aboard! It's virtually impossible for people to provide a response without knowing or seeing what you are working on. Is the car fresh out of the showroom? Or baking in the Arizona desert for the past 40 yrs?
sorry I guess I just don't understand the difference between 3M rubbing compound and a heavy polish. I guess though what you guys are hinting at is that the rubbing compound is machine applicable, as well as by hand, which was my main question. Then one would step down through the polishing range. I don't have any, nor need any. Just trying to get all the terminology correct.
It is also not "just" for immediately following a paint job, which was my initial feeling by reading the description on the bottle at the store.
Let me know if I am off.
It is also not "just" for immediately following a paint job, which was my initial feeling by reading the description on the bottle at the store.
Let me know if I am off.
tom p.
Active member
dfoxengr said:
There's a table kicking around somewhere that shows the level of aggressiveness for the mainstream products. 0 is the most mild, 10 the harshest.
As a general rule, you start out mild and turn to something more aggressive if you are not getting the desired result. When I hear the word "compound", I think liquid sand paper. However, some of the newest products offer a good amount of cut while minimizing hazing and the need for subsequent levels of correction. A modern product that comes to mind is Meguiar's Ultimate Compound* (by hand or DA only). This is a product that can do a fair amount of correction and require minimal follow up to perfect the surface.
Beyond that you've got to consider hand vs. DA vs. rotary and various pad choices - - then the discussion becomes more complex.
*Walmart, $7
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
tom p.
Active member
TOGWT said:
Very nice! Thanks.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Megs M105 followed by M205 or Menzerna 85 should give you a decent 'finish'.
tom p.
Active member
dfoxengr said:
If you have unlimited time to spend on this, sure, you could use each polish. However, it's not likely you would actually use them.
Get the surface finish to the point that it's acceptable to you. Then move to your LSP
tom p.
Active member
Sorry, I hate acronyms too.
LSP = last step product (sealant, wax, etc.)
LSP = last step product (sealant, wax, etc.)
tom p.
Active member
dfoxengr said:
Yes, that's correct. One generally follows this routine:
- Perfect paint
- seal surface (sealant or wax)
- add additional layer of wax or sealant (optional)