When to use #83, #9 , #7 (or their equivalents)?

[Sveta]

On a washed, clayed new car with 99.9% perfect paint what conditions determine WHEN to use a #83, #9, VM or #7?



I'll PC learn on an old Black 4X4 but only hand work the new white car.



I'm trying to keep it simple and understand when, why,etc. to use these specific products until I LEARN by repetition and practice the "processes" they demand.

Thanks in advance for whatever you can share.

:usa

 

[raymond_ho2002]

I do not use #83 or #9 on 99.9% perfect paint; i can tolerate a bit of imperfection. You could use VM, #7, or #81 right before waxing to give a bit of extra shine or wetness.

 

[Glossequation]

I do not use #83 or #9 on 99.9% perfect paint; i can tolerate a bit of imperfection. You could use VM, #7, or #81 right before waxing to give a bit of extra shine or wetness.

Is #7 or 3M IHG fine to use with a PC? My paint is not new (7 yrs old) but is in incredible condition. I am hesitant to even go with #9 or SMR...Just want a nice light polish (would prefer to stick with Meg's or 3M) that I can apply with a PC before going to #16.



thx

 

[Accumulator]

Is #7 or 3M IHG fine to use with a PC? My paint is not new (7 yrs old) but is in incredible condition. I am hesitant to even go with #9 or SMR...Just want a nice light polish (would prefer to stick with Meg's or 3M) that I can apply with a PC before going to #16.



thx

Yeah, they'll work OK. Anything you can use by hand will work OK by PC. But *I* find that there are some other, similar products that work even BETTER by PC. In general order of MOST->LEAST abrasive (but all *VERY* mild):



VM

P21S GEPC

(following are at least ~nonabrasive, "pure polishes" like #7)

#81

#5

#3



And 3M's PI-III FINISHING Glaze fits in there somewhere too.

 

[Sveta]

I do not use #83 or #9 on 99.9% perfect paint; i can tolerate a bit of imperfection. You could use VM, #7, or #81 right before waxing to give a bit of extra shine or wetness.

Thanks.

(The #83 and #9 are for the not perfect old black truck.)



Detailer recommended to use VM on white car's CLEAR BRA. Can #7, "glazes" etc. be used on the film? Does one use a sealant/wax on top of cl-bra?

:usa

 

[Glossequation]

Yeah, they'll work OK. Anything you can use by hand will work OK by PC. But *I* find that there are some other, similar products that work even BETTER by PC. In general order of MOST->LEAST abrasive (but all *VERY* mild):



VM

P21S GEPC

(following are at least ~nonabrasive, "pure polishes" like #7)

#81

#5

#3



And 3M's PI-III FINISHING Glaze fits in there somewhere too.

Sweet thanks Accumulator--I think I'm going for the Machine Glaze or New Car Glaze in about a month on the Stang...

 

[Accumulator]

..think I'm going for the Machine Glaze or New Car Glaze in about a month on the Stang...

I'm gonna take a wild guess and say that, choosing among the Meg's stuff, you'd be happier with the #81 or #3 (don't worry about what Meg's reps might say, both work fine by hand and/or PC). Unless you're working in humid conditions; that's where the #5 is best. Just IMO, of course.

 

[Glossequation]

I'm gonna take a wild guess and say that, choosing among the Meg's stuff, you'd be happier with the #81 or #3 (don't worry about what Meg's reps might say, both work fine by hand and/or PC). Unless you're working in humid conditions; that's where the #5 is best. Just IMO, of course.

#81 or #3--That's good to know...This is my first year with a PC so I'm really just looking to enhance the shine a bit (over #7 by hand last year). Not looking to do defect removal so much.

 

[Accumulator]

blackcaraddict- Yeah, while #7 is like an old friend (and sometimes downright fun to use on ss paint), I think you'll find the other two even easier to use, especially with the PC (and on basecoat/clear).

 

[1 Clean WS6]

My thoughts for the Meg's products:



#83 - only needed for moderate swirl or defect removal



#9 - great for new paints that have very light swirling or cob web effect



#7 - super pure polish to add that wet gloss for single stage paints but does work on clearcoat/basecoat paints



If your paint is 99.9% defect free I would first apply a coat of Meg's #81 Hand Polish by hand using a terry applicator pad...then follow that with whatever last step product you like. I have had great results with a #81/NXTx2/#16 combo on my WS6.

 

[Sveta]

My thoughts for the Meg's products:



....Like your #81 suggestion, again I learn about terry cloth by hand. Thanks, Man. :xyxthumbs :usa





Isn't #81 the humidity friendly version of #7? Isn't #5 and #7 so close as to not really matter?

Is #82 very similiar to #9?

Is VM more like #6 or #3?

 

[Accumulator]

MartyGrant- Hard to compare across manufacturers, I'd guess the VM (which I *really* like) is sorta like #6 in a VERY general way.



#6 is actually quite different from #3. #3 is really just a more machine-friendly #7, it stays wet longer and *IMO* "dries" more than "skins". #7 is sorta unique in the way it "skins" rather than "dries". #6 isn't really all that unique, it's an old-school cleaner wax (but a good one).



*I* always found the #5 to be the most humidity-friendly, and thus noticeably different from #7. Maybe they've changed the products, but I used a LOT of those back in the day (every time I washed certain cars), bought 'em by the case in the old clear bottles.



#81 is a bit more humidity-friendly than #7 (it "skins" differently, it's more like it actually "dries", sorta similar to the #3), but *IMO*, it's not nearly as "dry" a polish as #5. I've used #5 in *VERY* humid conditions without any trouble, it really dries, and thus it can make for a bit of dusting, BTW.



Yeah, the #82 is sort a a "more clearcoat friendly" version of #9.



All this #this and #that is enough to make your head spin!

 

[Sveta]

MartyGrant- Hard to compare across manufacturers....



All this #this and #that is enough to make your head spin!

Thanks, Accumulator!!!

I have only one shot at NOT screwing up my brand new finish. All of this is helping me and hopefully others. Creating PRODUCT induced swirls is something I want to avoid.



....OK to spin heads as long as they come out facing the "right" direction. :up



:usa

 

[breakneckvtec]

I have always believed in the Kiss method, Keep It Simple Stupid.



With that said try not to get lost in the crossing of meanings and brands and what they do and what they dont do. From my experience the only way to tell is to try things.



EXAMPLE: I recently polished with DACP LC yellow cutting pad with my PC on my honda. Came out great. The hood, and the drivers door on the lower portion show some very minor haze. Only in the right light, I even missed it a few times. I got a similar haze last year when I did my car with FI II. I fixed that easily with 3M SMR. I went back to it for this, guess what, didnt budge the haze. Now from all I know, SMR is more agressive than AIO. AIO is supposedly not agressive at all. I applied just as I did with the SMR, white polishing pad with the PC. No more haze. Moral of this story? Its an art, a guessing game at best, try different routes, techniques and products to get what you want. What works once, may not work twice. But hey, thats what makes this fun. Dont worry about screwing up, use common sense and youll never go wrong, your paint will never look better. :xyxthumbs :bounce

 

[Sveta]

I have always believed in the Kiss method, Keep It Simple Stupid.



...From my experience the only way to tell is to try things....

Its an art, a guessing game at best.....use common sense and youll never go wrong, .....



I'm beginning to understand, thanks. :dance :usa