How can I tell when a car's clear coat is too thin to detail with a PC and an abrasive product. I have some Wolfgang Swirl Remover and I plan to use it on my g/f's 00 Neon. The car is exposed to the elements 24/7 and the paint is very dull looking. However, I dont want to kill her clearcoat if it is too thin. Thanks. :xyxthumbs
When is it too thin?
- Thread starter SphyNxXx
- Start date
JasonD
New member
I don't know how to tell if it's too thin without using an expensive gauge, but if it's only a 2000, I'm sure you still have enough on there as to not be worried. The dull look is from a lack of polishing, and probably some oxidation mixed in. Do you know if this is b/c or ss paint?
That's most likely oxidation like JDookie says. Get some abrasive and work that stuff out and find some good paint cleaner too. Make sure to claybar before all that, if it's been exposed without some sort of protection for that long it'll have some bad things embedded in.
Wolfgang makes a nice sealant that you could use after all the polishing is finished. Top with some nice wax and it'll look sharp.
Bad thing with clearcoat is it's nearly impossible to tell if it's too thin until you've started burning through it already. Start work in a place that's not very big and wouldn't be hard to ignore or repaint if it gets damaged (bad of car or rear quarter panels if they are small). I've noticed that lots of cars clearcoat is usually the most thin around the back, so if you can work that area without damage then you might gain some courage for the front.
Wolfgang makes a nice sealant that you could use after all the polishing is finished. Top with some nice wax and it'll look sharp.
Bad thing with clearcoat is it's nearly impossible to tell if it's too thin until you've started burning through it already. Start work in a place that's not very big and wouldn't be hard to ignore or repaint if it gets damaged (bad of car or rear quarter panels if they are small). I've noticed that lots of cars clearcoat is usually the most thin around the back, so if you can work that area without damage then you might gain some courage for the front.
I have claybarred it before, but it didn't pick up a whole lot except for the most trouble spots such as fenders, etc. However, the car has not been polsihed in several years, if not ever. The car wasn't waxed from the time her family got the car in 2001 until some time last summer. It had only been waxed 2 or 3 times since I met her over a year ago. The stuff I used on it was non-abrasive, but the WG Prewax Polish Enhancer did the paint a lot of good. Now, it just needs some heavier stuff. They would wash the car with regular water and let it air dry. The car was never hand dried that I know of until I came along and as I said, NO kind of wax or anything touched it. They also live on a dirt road which makes things worse!
The place of the car I am the most worried about the clearcoat is the hood. The car has almost no beading action anymore.....anywhere!
The color of the car is a burnt orange metallic color.
The place of the car I am the most worried about the clearcoat is the hood. The car has almost no beading action anymore.....anywhere!
The color of the car is a burnt orange metallic color.
White95Max
New member
SphyNxXx said:
My Protege didn't have a single bead on it anywhere when I first washed it. That doesn't mean it can't be brought back to life though. The paint now looks like I had it repainted. Give it some lovin' and it'll look brand new again
atticdog
New member
try something mild like #80 with a green pad to start with
jimmybuffit
That'll buff right out!
Choose a rather aggressive polish and something other than a finishing pad.
As Scottwax said, I'd have no concern at all about the thickness of the clear.
Having said that, you have a lot work ahead of you. The PC may clean it up, but it would not be my "tool of choice".
Just me... Good Luck!
Jim
As Scottwax said, I'd have no concern at all about the thickness of the clear.
Having said that, you have a lot work ahead of you. The PC may clean it up, but it would not be my "tool of choice".
Just me... Good Luck!
Jim
Accumulator
Well-known member
SphyNxXx- Yeah, you'll almost certainly be fine with any approach short of aggressive work with a rotary (and it could probably survive that too). Have at it with at least a polishing pad and something that has some cut to it.
Yeah, exactly. My '95 9C1 is that way too; I don't need a gauge to know that I can't risk trying to really correct the paint
GSRstilez said:
Yeah, exactly. My '95 9C1 is that way too; I don't need a gauge to know that I can't risk trying to really correct the paint
The only abrasive product I have is Wolfgang Super Swirl Cutter. It should be fine for what needs to be done. This doesn't have to be showcar quality because the care for it wont exactly follow afterwards. My plan of attack is wash, clay where needed since I have previously clayed it, WG SSR with PC on orange pad, if needed, another coat of SSR on a blue pad, WG prewax polish enhancer, WG sealant.
I've used a rotary a couple times before, but I dont like using them. I'll stick to my PC...much more user friendly. I plan to get on the car tomorrow, weather and other things pending. If I do, I'll try to get some before/after pics.
I've used a rotary a couple times before, but I dont like using them. I'll stick to my PC...much more user friendly. I plan to get on the car tomorrow, weather and other things pending. If I do, I'll try to get some before/after pics.