What's the difference between Menzerna Polish PO85RD & Final Finish PO85U

K

kb2ehj

New member
Subject line says it all, curious as to what the differences are between these to products. (Menzerna Polish PO85RD & Menzerna Final Finish PO85U)



I don't currently have a need for either, but in the near future a friend is going to let me 'practice' on his old Daily Driver Honda Accord (think it's either an 03 or 06) and although I'm not aiming for showroom quality I'd still like to make it nice looking for him. I've seen lots of posts that mention both of these products but never in the same sentence LOL.



Also as a side question, what do the codes after the numbers refer to in the Menzerna line of products?



Mark
 
The Final Polish is used after u use a stronger poilsh or compound. If ur paint is in good condition w/only minor swirls or imperfections b4 waxing or sealingu would use final polish.



Menzerna PO85RD is optional- usually used for darker paints that u really want to show off. This polish is used after a final polish and after ALL paint imperfections have been removed. It is used to jewel the paint in preparation for LSP.



Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish, menzerna compound,
 
Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish, menzerna compound,



Menzerna Polishing Compounds



Menzerna polishes are the same polishes used by Mercedes Benz of Germany.



Menzerna have been making polishes and compounds since 1888 and today they are the number one source of OEM polishing compounds for leading auto manufacturers in Germany and rapidly spreading throughout plants in the United States. Menzerna Polishing Compounds of Germany has set new standards for workability, uniformity, performance, and quality. Why else would Mercedes Benz use Menzerna polishes to perfect the finishes on their brand new vehicles?





Properties Type of Coating

Product Part No. Silicone Cut Gloss Color OEM Repair Aged Grit* Pads



Compounding Powergloss POS34A None 4.5 1.5 white • • 1,500 Yellow-orange



Polishing Intensive

Polish PO91E None 3.3 3 white • • 2,000 Orange- White

Super

Intensive

Polish PO83Q

PO85RD3.02 None 3.8 3.2 white • 2,000 Orange- White

Power Finish PO203 None 3.5 3.8 grey • 2,000 White



Finishing Final Polish PO85U None 2.5 4.5 white • • 2,500 Gray - Red - Blue

Super Finish "Nano" PO106FA None 2.5 5 grey • 2,500 Gray - Red - Blue

Micro Polish* PO87MC None 2 4.5 grey • • 2,500 Gray - White

PO85RD Polish PO85RD None 1 5 grey • 2,500 Gray - Red - Blue

Finishing Glaze PO115CQ None 0.5 5 yellow • • n. a. Gray - Red - Blue



Protection Sealing Wax APO-60 0.5 5 yellow • n. a. Gray - Red - Blue



Quick Detail Top Inspection PP95 None 0 5 clear • • • n. a. Microfiber Cloth

* Also known as Final Polish II

* Minimum sanding grit

Cut/Gloss

1 = Low, 5 = High ** PO203, PO83Q & PO106FA

Designed for scratch resistant coatings

** The Super Intensive Polish Stock Number PO85RD3.02 has been renamed to PO83Q for simplicity.
 
I am very familiar with most of Menzerna's products as we use a large portion of their line. I am not, however, familiar with Final Finish but know that it is a very similar product to Final Polish except it is not designed to work on cars with a ceramic clear coat.

I am familiar with Final Polish.

We only use final polish when two stages of polish are abslolutly necessary (perhaps after cutting with Power Gloss) and we want to use a finer polish after SIP.



I would recommend using Menzerna's newer product, Power Finish, instead as it really works as a two stage polish (had excellent results with PF).



Hope this helps.



Jeff
 
All of Menzerna polishes from the original P205/305 (I believe) on up have been designed for the OEM markets, then transfered to the detailer/end user.



This is why you have many products that have such a similar overlap in performance and results, even if they work differently. At the OEM level polishes may be formulated slightly different depending on things like application technique, paint type, or assembly line speed.



The difference between 106ff and 106fa for example was a small tweak to the lubrication to help hold the abrasives to the pad better (less dusting). At the OEM level this means a cleaner, faster cut, but the pads will need to be cleaned/changed more frequently. (For example). To the detailer it might mean one product performs slightly better in certain circumstances or on certain paints, but for the most part, in most regards, they the same.



PO85u is one of the oldest OEM finishing polishes that Menzerna still sells. While it produces a great finish, its work time can me a little longer then some detailers (and I imagine OEM factories) want.



PO87mf (Final Polish I) and PO87mc (Final Polish II) are also OEM level finishing polishes, and I am (almost) positive that these polishes where replaced by 85u at the factory level.



PO85rd replaced PO85u at a lot of OEM levels, where it was then replaced by 106ff, then 106fa.



Most of the time you are going to have a hard time seeing any major differences between 85u, 87mf, 87mc, and 85rd in terms of cut or finish, although each one works slightly different. 85u tends to have a very long work time, the 87's tend to be slightly quicker, and 85rd is the quickest. To me both 87's as well as 85u tend to be very fool proof, they work on just about everything. 85rd can be a little more finicky on some very soft paints (I have had it get a little 'grabby' on some Porsche's for example).



106ff replaced 85rd as the OEM finishing polish and uses even finer abrasives then 85rd. However the exact type of abrasive used is inconsiquencal (just like the amount of wax in the container really doesn't make a difference) and part of the bigger picture. 106ff tends to be more aggressive then 85rd and 85rd tends to leave a higher gloss/more uniform scratch.



Any product can 'fill' or hide defects, particularly when applied with a rotary polisher. I find that 85u is the least likely to unintentionally 'fill' the paint because the oils tend to clean easily. By the same token 106ff's oils can be particularly difficult to fully remove from the surface, making it harder to judge the true finish.



Menzerna of Germany is a primarly OEM based company, detailers are really the ones who have figured out who these products work in our world.
 
TH0001- Thanks for posting all that (posting it again... I think I remember your explaining this before :think: ). It's hard for non-pros who don't use this stuff all the time to keep them all straight, or at least it is for me, even *with* that Menzerna Products Chart that vendors have.



Let me put you on the spot ;) and ask for two specific recommendations. Both cases involve *thin* paint...too thin for true correction, so I'm after a "just increase the gloss" effect. 1) soft, old, single stage lacquer, and 2) quite hard b/c. What in the Menzerna line would you reach for first in each case?



TH0001 said:
...106ff's oils can be particularly difficult to fully remove from the surface, making it harder to judge the true finish.
Click to expand...



No kidding :xyxthumbs I've posted before about how 106FF can do some incredible concealing. In the case I observed it was used via PC and both the degree, and duration, of the concealing was really something. I guess some people might consider it a "feature" but it wasn't in that case.
 
Accumulator said:
TH0001- Thanks for posting all that (posting it again... I think I remember your explaining this before :think: ). It's hard for non-pros who don't use this stuff all the time to keep them all straight, or at least it is for me, even *with* that Menzerna Products Chart that vendors have.



Let me put you on the spot ;) and ask for two specific recommendations. Both cases involve *thin* paint...too thin for true correction, so I'm after a "just increase the gloss" effect. 1) soft, old, single stage lacquer, and 2) quite hard b/c. What in the Menzerna line would you reach for first in each case?
Click to expand...



1) I would probably go with PO87mc (FPII) because it is very mild but I have never had 'react' weird on any paints. It is very well lubed and tends to keep the paint cool. PO85rd can act up and grab at the paint, perhaps (from my understanding) it is because it uses fairly sharp and aggressive abrasives.

PO85U would also be a great choice but I honestly have more experience with 87mc.



2) I would again go with 'old reliable'. 85u seems to work great on hard paints (I have never had Menzerna weirdness with it) so it is probably just as good as a choice. At least I find harder paints to be much more forgiving to the type of polish used.



In the end the total material removed is probably going to be very similar regardless of the product used, so it wouldn't be based on the worries about excessive film removal, just personal preference and keeping the paint cool. Also I like the easy wipeoff of 87mc, less risk of marring the paint (and needing additional polishing).



Perhaps the best product though would be something that is mild or non-aggressive but fills like flood?
 
TH0001- Thanks for the reply, I appreciate being able to take advantage of all your experience.



And yeah, I agree on the go-mild/filling; SRP and 1Z WPS are pretty much my go-to products for that. Better imperfect original paint than the need for a repaint :D
 
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