What's the best product to clean/maintain a suede headliner?

I sometimes detail a 2006 Mercedes S65 AMG. It has real suede headliner and trim in various places. I am hesitant to use any of my products on the suede before doing a little research..anyone have any experience here? Thx
 
footprints on the headliner? lol, somebodies gettin busy...



i would say you could LIGHTLY use an eraser, something they use to clean suede shoes, but DO NOT APPLY TOO MUCH PRESSURE!
 
Lightman said:
I sometimes detail a 2006 Mercedes S65 AMG. It has real suede headliner and trim in various places. I am hesitant to use any of my products on the suede before doing a little research..anyone have any experience here? Thx



The material is not real suede but a man made fabric called Alcantra. I have it on all of my newer MB's. Here is an excerpt from an article on how to care for it.

Escaine, Alacantra) Should be cleaned by brushing the nap with a soft nylon upholstery brush, remove pilling with a single-sided razor blade and then applying a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® with a ratio of 5:1 or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (do not soak the fabric) Localized stains can be treated with a citrus-based cleaner, ensure surface is dry before use by leaving window cracked/open. For heavy stain removal- 1:1 Folex Instant Carpet Spot Remover / Distilled water- http://www.folexcompany.com/



Identifying characteristics- very soft to the touch will scratch or scuff very easily; water drops will darken the leather but it returns to its original colour after drying.



Maintenance- Use a soft brush lightly to remove dust and raise the fabrics nap, once your seats / steering wheel / interior is clean, you should use a conditioning/protection product (303â„¢ High Tech Fabric Guard, which includes UVR protection)





Lou
 
Lou, you may be right on the lower models, I know the E class and others have what you are describing, however the S-class AMG models have real leather dashboards/door trim, and real suede headliner/trim. I can see them throwing fakie material in a $80k E55, however in a $180k S65, they put the real stuff in apparently...how nice of them ;)



I guess I'll have to look at suede shoe/purse products...?
 
Lou k, Do you have any source info on how you came up with the process for this?



The reason why i am asking is because i have cleaned several dozen nubuck/suede/antaclara couches chairs and cars. Using the process you have mentioned is asking for a world of hurt. I do agree with one part.



Should be cleaned by brushing the nap with a soft nylon upholstery brush, remove pilling with a single-sided razor blade
Although the razor blade is the last resort, a ink eraser or a sand paper eraser (an eraser made to clean sanding disks, and belts) will generally work just as well for 90% of the cleaning needs.



For antaclara and suede/nubuck I strongly recomend leather masters Suede/nubuck leather cleaner, conditioner, and protectant.



I have used them for years, With great results. Be very weary of adding non leather products to a aniline or un protected lether like antaclara,suede,nubuck. As you will likely cause water marking and staining. Adittionally using a strong water based product on the leather will rob it of it's essential fatty oils, making it prematurely dry, crack, and age. What little water is in the leather masters nubuck/suede cleaner is offset by the nubuck suede conditioning creme, followed by the protection creme.



People are willing to put in a 3-5 step process for paint. Leather, fabric, and carpet are no exception to this. To get them clean, conditioned, and protected you need specific dedicated products.



Nubuck cleaner

http://www.leatherworldtech.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=LMNC250

Leather Master Nubuck Cleaner

LMNC250

250 ml. bottle.



Nubuck Cleaner will clean most stains and soiling from nubuck leathers. It is a water based product that penetrates into the surface to clean without harming your nubuck leather



Nubuck conditioner.

http://www.leatherworldtech.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=LWNC16

Nubuck Leather Conditioner

LWNC16

Size 16 oz



Water base conditioner that penetrates the leather to soften and nourish it.



Directions



Clean the leather first by using Nubuck Leather Cleaner and allow leather to dry. Apply the conditioner by spraying a fine mist over the entire area. Brush or likely rub in the conditioner and allow to dry. Use a Nubuck brush to restore the texture. Always test Nubuck Leather Conditioner on a hidden area before application. May slightly darken light colored leather.



Nubuck protectant

http://www.leatherworldtech.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=lm711

Nubuck Protectant

lm711

16 & 32 oz sizes. Designed especially for sensitive nubucks and suede leathers. This product will provide oil, water and alcohol protection. Forms a barrier to improve stain resistance and cleanability. Direction Spray a fine mist over the surface holding the sprayer a least 12 inches from the leather. It is better to spray several light coats than one heavy coat. A hair dryer may be use to assist in drying.To return the nubuck texture,rub surface with a dry sponge after the leather has dried.



Sizes

16 oz $27.95

32 oz $47.95

gallon $157.95
 
Well I haven't seen LouK's garage either, but Grouse that sounds like a process I'm more comfortable with than what Lou suggested. I definitely want to use products designed for the job at hand, not a cross application of some fabric/carpet cleaning products on such a sensitive area/material. I can't and don't want to even begin to imagine what replacing the headliner on a $180k vehicle would cost if I ruined it.
 
Lord knows I don't know all that is why i asked for his source material. There are 1000000000's of ways to clean something each with their own risks and advantages. Quite possibly it is a very valid way, In my experience though. I would be very weary. As i have said before, put 10 detailers in a room and you'll have 10 ways to do the same thing. Alot of times manufactures try and distill a process and product combo down to the simplest fashion for consumers. In doing so they often do not explain the downsides of such an abriviated process.
 
Lightman said:
Lou, you may be right on the lower models, I know the E class and others have what you are describing, however the S-class AMG models have real leather dashboards/door trim, and real suede headliner/trim. I can see them throwing fakie material in a $80k E55, however in a $180k S65, they put the real stuff in apparently...how nice of them ;)



I guess I'll have to look at suede shoe/purse products...?



I have a S class AMG all be it an S55 and it has the alcantra headliner. All of the AMG's with the curious exception of the last generation CL class have alcantra headliners not suede.



Here is the spec from the MB web page for the S65;

"Hand-fitted AMG-designed perforated leather seating surfaces with metal AMG badges. Exclusive leather interior treatment with a glove-soft and fine grained finish hand-fitted to head restraints, dash, console, doors, armrests and rear shelf. Alcantara covers the pillars, sun visors and headliner."



In response to the other poster who asked where I got the cleaning methods I received it from the internet. I have had experience with not cleaning but working with the alcantra material. I removed those silly airbag stickers from the alcantra sun visors in my AMG's using goof off and it worked perfectly. This is a micro fiber material, not a leather product and is pretty user friendly..
 
LouK you got me looking and digging for a bit.



Tracked it down to the manufacture, and here is what they recomend for their fabric ingeneral. Keep inmind you need to still be aware of in car applications.



"Carefree Instructions" might be a better way to put it. One of the things consumers and designers alike appreciate most about Ultrasuede® is how easy it is to keep looking beautifulâ€â€�and feeling soft and plushâ€â€�for years to come.







Everyday Upkeep



A quick once-over with a lint brush will restore the sensuous nap and soft luster of Ultrasuede®. Periodically, it’s also recommended to dust the fabric gently but thoroughly with a well-wrung damp cloth or sponge. Take care not to get the fabric too wet. Redampen your cloth or sponge in clean water, wipe again and let dry overnight. Once completely dry, rejuvenate the fabric with a gentle brushing.



Laundering/Dry Cleaning



Ultrasuede® is designed to be machine-washable. However, it is often combined with materials (for lining and the like) that don't stand up to a washing machine. So be sure to check the manufacturer's care instructions first.



All Ultrasuede® fabrics can be dry-cleaned except for one shade of clear white used for some garments. Again, check your manufacturer's care instructions for details.



Ironing and Storage of Ultrasuede® Garments



Wrinkle-resistant Ultrasuede® products almost never require ironing, but if you do iron Ultrasuede®, brush the fabric with a lint brush in one direction and make sure to use a pressing cloth and to press the fabric gently, with your iron set at or below 120 ºC/250 ºF ("Synthetic Fabrics," "Low"). For storage after dry cleaning, wrap your Ultrasuede® garment and hang it in an insecticide- and mothball-free space on a clothes hanger so that it maintains its shape.







Spot Cleaning



For spills, gently pat the spilled liquid with a paper towel. This will take care of most spills. For dried-in soiling, coffee stains and the like, you’ll obtain the best results by gently brushing the stained area. Vacuuming up the dried material is also effective.



1.



If the above method doesn’t work, try wiping the stained area from the outside in with a well-wrung cloth dampened in lukewarm water (about 105 ºF/40 ºC/).

2.



It’s important to make sure you keep a clean area of the cloth applied to the stain and that you not rub the fabric too hard.

3.



If the surface nap looks tousled, brush it gently.

4.



After wiping up, allow the fabric to dry completely before using.







Oil-Based Stains Not Removable with Water



1.



Try to wipe up oily stains as much as possible--without spreading the stain--with a dry cloth or paper towel

2.



Next, take two rags, one soaked in ethyl alcohol, the other clean and dry. Pat the stained area from the outside in with the alcohol-soaked cloth, then pat the loosened dirt and oil off with the dry cloth.

3.



Repeat depending on degree of soiling.

4.



After removing the stain, let the fabric dry completely before using.



Caution: Never pour a cleaning product directly onto Ultrasuede®. If you use ethyl alcohol, make sure the room is well-ventilated and avoid contact with open flames.







Chewing-gum and wax



Put ice in a plastic bag and place on the stain. Once the material hardens, gently chip it away and then treat with ethyl alcohol. Rinse with clean water.







Stubborn stains



Try repeating the treatments described above; even stains which are not water-soluble often require subsequent treatment with water.







Old stains of unknown origin



First treat with lukewarm water, then rinse by blotting with clean water. If the stain begins to dissolve, repeat the treatment as often as necessary and let dry thoroughly. If staining persists, try treating with ethyl alcohol.
 
Grouse said:
LouK you got me looking and digging for a bit.



Tracked it down to the manufacture, and here is what they recomend for their fabric ingeneral. Keep inmind you need to still be aware of in car applications.



The only thing that I was concerned about with what I posted originally was the use of Folex. My wife once tried to clean spot on an off white carpet in our house. The spot went away but it left a perfect pinkstain on the carpet. Most directions state use it on an inconspicuous area first. Now we know why. Sometimes it does pay to read the directions but for me that is akin to giving up my manliness. :chuckle: :chuckle:
 
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