What's the best 3 (or 4) step process with a rotary buffer?

J

Juggalo

New member
Hey guys, it's been a while since I posted at autopia. But I'm in the process of ordering the Hitachi SP18VA 7� Polisher along with the Edge 8" Polishing Kit that comes with five 8� specialized pads from autogeek.com



Now I'm stuck on what products to get. I know the Hitachi, and the pads that I'm getting will get any job done, but now I just need to know what kind of compound, swirl remover, sealent, and wax to get.



Mainly I want a product that can restore faded paint (since a client of mine is asking me to do his C4 red Vette with faded paint) What's the best route to go for old, untreated paint?



Can any of you guys help me out with that please? A link (preferably autogeek) will be great. Also if you want to put in your 2 cents about the Hitachi SP18VA let's hear it.







Thanks a lot guys :xyxthumbs
 
I've had good luck with the SSR line via rotory, but I know a lot of others who dont seem to like it much. For normal cars that arent too terribly abused (I dont do this for a living, so I dont go looking for cars with ruined paint) I will use SSR2 or SSR2.5 on a polishing pad and step down to my PC and SSR1 with a polishing pad. I haven't had to use a cutting pad too often. I am looking forward to trying Optimum Polish via rotory though. I just have to run through some of my current stock.



link that you asked for
 
Defintely try optimum polish. I have used it with my makita and it works way better than ssr2.5/2/1. It has a longer working time and the aggressiveness of the polish changes with the pad you choose.
 
You can get great results with the Optimum Compound and Polish. I like to use my cyclo polisher for those single stage paints that have oxidized. It is less physically demanding.
 
Thanks Way2SSlow, I ended up ordering the SR2, and SSR2.5. Thanks for the advice guys, now I just have to patiently wait for the new toys to come in.



What do you pros think of the Hitachi? I got it for $170 from autogeek.com
 
I also have the hitachi great machine

if you want a OTC product then Megs ColorX is great for removing oxidation

then you can judge the paint condition for any swirl removal needed
 
The Menzerna line is perfect for Rotary because its designed for it. But be careful of holograming (unless you are very proficient with rotary) because Menzerna doesn't have fillers on it. I never tried Optimum but hearing lots of good things about them. I am excited to try Poorboys SSR line, still waiting for my shipment to arrive.
 
I would've gotten a gallon of LASER BUFF-SCRATCH & SWIRL REMOVER and Optimum Polish if it were me . Laser Buff breaks down into a polish so it's like two products in one by itself .

Even Laser Buff then AIO would've been awesome



The SSR2.5 and SSr2 will work very well for you though .



Use the ssr2.5 at about 1500-1700 Rpm's with the black pad and no pressure ( except machine weight ) , SSR 2 with green ( if starting with black ) at about 1000-1200 rpms and some light pressure working . Wipe each panel off after you're done and work only about a 4'x4' area at a time

Then finish off with something else and the blue pad like Meguiar's #80 , Vanilla Moose or AIO
 
Juggalo said:
What rotary buffers do the majority of you guys use?
Click to expand...





I use a Makita. I'm sure you'll be satisfied with the SSRs. Post some pics when you try out all your new stuff.





PS. I usually dont find myself going much faster than 1500 RPM with the SSRs. On my car, I dont even need to go that fast.
 
papi_jay said:
The SSR2.5 and SSr2 will work very well for you though .



Use the ssr2.5 at about 1500-1700 Rpm's with the black pad and no pressure ( except machine weight ) , SSR 2 with green ( if starting with black ) at about 1000-1200 rpms and some light pressure working . Wipe each panel off after you're done and work only about a 4'x4' area at a time

Then finish off with something else and the blue pad like Meguiar's #80 , Vanilla Moose or AIO
Click to expand...



That's exactly what I needed to hear, thanks man :2thumbs:
 
and only use that black pad on heavy oxidation jobs or extremely heavy scratches as a spot buff pad.

It is VERY aggressive
 
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