What's next after #80/DACP concerns

A

audio1der

New member
I tried my PC on the weekend for the 1st time. Had #80 with orange and white LC pads to work with.

While I didn't have many swirls to speak of (I beleive my CC is mixed in with the last coat of paint? and/or really hard CC) I have a lot of small, not-too-deep scratches. Sort of "part-swirls" if you will. A pass of #80 on white pads did almost nothing, so I moved to an orange pad. 2 passes really working it in helped, but the scratches are still there.

Reading a lot about #83 leaves me wondering if it's not too difficult/tempermental to use with the caking and balling up, and if it's even aggressive enough? Sorry I don't have pics.

Just not sure if something like #2 or #84 would be fine with an orange pad, or if I should suck it up and order a 6" yellow pad.

I have a 6"bp which is why I didn't order a yellow pad to begin with (and the Canadian site I bought from did not carry them; would involve 2 seperate orders anyway)

Any input is welcome,

Kevin
 
I would try the #83 with the white pad first, if that doesn't cut it, then try it with the orange pad. IMO, you will need to follow the DACP with a finer polish, especially if you use the orange pad.



If that doesn't work look into getting some 3M PI III RC and try it using the same process.



If that doesn't get it, time to move up to a rotary IMO.
 
I have a car that had auto scratches all over it. DACP and the orange pad took 85-90% of them out. It was very times consuming though, and i needed to do 2-3 passes. Then i followed up with a milder polish with a white pad x2.



Once i realized how long this was going to take, i decided to simplify things and only work on a few body panels when i had the time. In about 10 days working at nite 2-3 times a week i was done.



The only places i still have swirls are around emblems and the door molding protector thing, parts of the bumper that is a pain in the arse. They are in awkward spots, and i might have to get them by hand- or not, its white :)
 
audio1der- Don't try the #2 or #84, they're rotary-only products that I don't even like *with* a rotary.



Trying to remove sorta-serious marring by PC can be tough, especially with some paints. I don't find the yellow Lake cutting pads too aggressive, though I follow such work with the same product on a polishing pad before switching to a milder polish.



I've found there's a definite limit to what you can do with #80. In your case, you need a more aggressive product which you can then follow with the #80 and a polishing pad. Just using the #80 with a cutting pad won't do what you're after; you're limited by the #80. I consider #83 insufficiently user-friendly and you sound a little leery of it anyhow.



I too would try the PI-III RC (05933), but I dunno if it'll be strong enough for what you're trying to do. For me, the 05933 works great on Mazdas but isn't strong enough for Audis (this is with the PC). Follow with a milder product.



Another idea is the 1Z Ultra/Extra. Note that this will leave not-so-micro micromarring that you'll need another product to remove.



One more thought is Hi-Temp Medium Cut, which will also leave micromarring.



Following any of those with your #80 should work fine.



Other than using a 4" pad (works more effectively) on your PC, those are about it for options. Next step would be a Cyclo or a rotary.
 
I really would recommend Poorboys SSR2.5 over DACP. DACP has only furnished great results for me by rotary. I do not like SSR's by rotary, however. So there's the problem. :(
 
Thanks for the replies, guys.

I'll look into 05933 or maybe even 39002 as per David's reccomendation in the reviews section (I have done my reading!)

I might be tempet to order the SSR 2.5, but that would lead to a much larger order of 2.5, 1, EX and maybe PP to justify the shipping :think:

Cheers

K
 
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