Scooter2525
New member
I have a 2010 Pilot that still has the factory "wax". Has about 31000 miles. Is it time to clay/polish/wax? Is that's what is causing the water to stick like veins after a pass with a MF?
What's causing this? Time to polish/wax?
- Thread starter Scooter2525
- Start date
Yes, it's well past time for you to spend couple of hours washing and waxing your car. My guess is that you want to do this by hand with products you can purchase locally, so here are my suggestions:
1) Wash: Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash will do a good job for you. Duragloss 901 will do even better, if you can find it.
2) Clay: Either Meguiar's or Mother's clay bar kits will be fine.
3) Cleaner Wax: Duragloss 501, Meguiar's ColorX, Mother's Cleaner Wax. I am recommending a cleaner wax (AIO) because the paint of your vehicle has not been properly cleaned for over 30K miles. The cleaner wax will remove stuff that the clay can't get to. It will also provide a layer of protection.
4) Wax: Meguiar's Ultimate Wax. This is the most durable synthetic sealant available in local auto stores. Two coats should last you longer than most other OTC waxes. Purchase it in the liquid form: the liquid form does not stain trim. You can find more durable sealants, but you'll have to purchase them online.
1) Wash: Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash will do a good job for you. Duragloss 901 will do even better, if you can find it.
2) Clay: Either Meguiar's or Mother's clay bar kits will be fine.
3) Cleaner Wax: Duragloss 501, Meguiar's ColorX, Mother's Cleaner Wax. I am recommending a cleaner wax (AIO) because the paint of your vehicle has not been properly cleaned for over 30K miles. The cleaner wax will remove stuff that the clay can't get to. It will also provide a layer of protection.
4) Wax: Meguiar's Ultimate Wax. This is the most durable synthetic sealant available in local auto stores. Two coats should last you longer than most other OTC waxes. Purchase it in the liquid form: the liquid form does not stain trim. You can find more durable sealants, but you'll have to purchase them online.
imported_RZJZA80
New member
try claying first, then polishing. Most likely, it will need a light polish at least.
Scooter2525
New member
Is the Megs ColorX considered a "light polish?" Does it have any cutting properties? I'll be using my Megs DA with a polish pad.
imported_RZJZA80
New member
Never used ColorX, but I assume it does have some cut. Alternatively, you can use UP or UC, UP being the first to try (OTC).
C. Charles Hahn
CCH Auto Appearance, LLC
scooter2525 said:
The factory "wax" (meaning what the dealer may or may not have a applied) was gone within 2-3 months of the vehicle being brand new, most likely. You're well overdue for a detail for sure.
Accumulator
Well-known member
scooter2525 said:
Think of the ColorX as more like a cleaner wax. It won't do the same degree of polishing that something like Ultimate Polish will do. It's cutting properties are minimal at best (I bet the abrasives in it do more to make the product user-friendly than they do to polish paint), but on a white Honda (a very forgiving color and somewhat soft paint) it might be sufficient.
Keep the ColorX off any black plastic/rubber/etc. trim.
mikenap
New member
I'd also like to add that Taffeta White Hondas are still single stage paint. You will need to be doubly diligent to keep it from dulling prematurely.
Scooter2525
New member
mikenap said:
Thanks for the note. I plan to keep the car for a LONGGGGG time due to the money I loss trading in my Bimmer for it. :-/
I'm probably going to buy megs UP. Would I use it with a buffing pad or finishing pad on my megs DA?
extrabolts
New member
Wash with dawn dish soap (only do this once). Then clay the car, look at videos on youtube for how to do this. Rewash with car soap - duragloss is the best stuff I have found locally (carquest, napa). Then wax. Collinite 476 is probably your best bet if you are going to only wax ~2-3 times / year.
Your wax that was applied by the dealer was likely gone within 2-4 weeks after you left the lot. Your paint surface is dried out and contaminated with three years worth of road grit, fallout, tar, etc, which causes the surface to be rough and lead to water streaks like what you are getting. A thorough wash and, more importantly, claying, will remove this. Put your hand in a sandwhich baggie and lightly glide over the surface - you are done claying once you feel it smooth. It will probably feel like sandpaper before you clay. Adding and maintaining wax will keep the contaminants of our environment from bonding to your paint, and collinite is one of the longest lasting and cheapest (~$15 online). Apply the wax very thin using a wax applicator (also online). If you car looks like icing you have applied WAY too much. Just a light, thin coat, then buff off.
Your wax that was applied by the dealer was likely gone within 2-4 weeks after you left the lot. Your paint surface is dried out and contaminated with three years worth of road grit, fallout, tar, etc, which causes the surface to be rough and lead to water streaks like what you are getting. A thorough wash and, more importantly, claying, will remove this. Put your hand in a sandwhich baggie and lightly glide over the surface - you are done claying once you feel it smooth. It will probably feel like sandpaper before you clay. Adding and maintaining wax will keep the contaminants of our environment from bonding to your paint, and collinite is one of the longest lasting and cheapest (~$15 online). Apply the wax very thin using a wax applicator (also online). If you car looks like icing you have applied WAY too much. Just a light, thin coat, then buff off.
Scooter2525
New member
Curious to why the Dawn this time, as I thought it was a big no no?
My game plan is to two bucket wash, clay with quick detailer/Meg's clay bar. Then polish with UP and wax with UW on the mega DA with a buff/finish pad.
Sound about right?
My game plan is to two bucket wash, clay with quick detailer/Meg's clay bar. Then polish with UP and wax with UW on the mega DA with a buff/finish pad.
Sound about right?
Accumulator
Well-known member
scooter2525 said:
Eh, it's not a biggie either way. I myself migh *not* do it in this case as Dawn has so-so lubricity and you don't need to instill any additional marring. IF you were doing an all-out correction it'd be different.
Yeah, that's the right idea. Use a polishing pad for the UP, not a "finishing" pad, as you'll benefit from the (slightly) more aggressive one.
the other pc
New member
scooter2525 said:
Using Dawn once or twice isn't likely to hurt anything. But if you'll be claying and polishing it's pointless. Might as well use your regular wash soap.
scooter2525 said:
Definitely a sound game plan.
pc
Scooter2525
New member
Accumulator said:
Yeh, I should have specified on the post in that order, but thats what I figured would be best. I need to correct out some very light swirls that (hopefully) are from the previous owner.
I should have the pads and UP in the mail tomorrow, so here comes my weekend project!
Accumulator
Well-known member
scooter2525 said:
If you get a chance, post back about how it goes. I'll be interested to hear how the UP works on that marring.
Scooter2525
New member
Will do. I'll picture it, if you have any suggestions to how I can use my DSLR with the white paint.
C. Charles Hahn
CCH Auto Appearance, LLC
scooter2525 said:
Best thing you can do is use manual focus so you're getting the surface of the paint instead of the reflections, and set it in aperture priority and stick with as large an aperture as your lens will allow. I find that the shallower the DOF, the better it picks up defects for up-close shots.
Scooter2525
New member
C. Charles Hahn said:
Good info. In terms of lighting, natural sun, garage florescent?
C. Charles Hahn
CCH Auto Appearance, LLC
scooter2525 said:
The best is natural sun, but if you can't catch it then your fluorescents or a spotlight like the Brinkmann LED or Xenon units will work.