what to use after wetsanding with PC?

E

eurotrs

New member
have a little bit of peel after laying down some base/clear



I am going to wetsand and buff with my PC



I was going to sand with 2000 grit,



then go

Yellow pad Megs #84

Orange Pad Megs #83

White Pad Megs #80



then Lsp



does this sound good?





anyone have any other suggestions I have not purchased the 84 or 80 yet





I only have a PC not rotary
 
You might want to consider following the 2K paper with 3K paper if you only have a PC to finish with. Process looks like it will work, you can always test panel w/ just 2K and see how that finishes out.





Walter
 
eurotrs said:
have a little bit of peel after laying down some base/clear



I am going to wetsand and buff with my PC



I was going to sand with 2000 grit,



then go

Yellow pad Megs #84

Orange Pad Megs #83

White Pad Megs #80



then Lsp



does this sound good?





anyone have any other suggestions I have not purchased the 84 or 80 yet





I only have a PC not rotary
Click to expand...



3M's Fine Cut Rubbing Compound with a cutting pad will work well...wonderful product but I am not sure if it is still available.
 
Wetsanding with an electric sander isn’t a good idea. If you do it, at least use a GFCI outlet or extension cord.



You didn’t mention whose abrasives you’re using but really, even under the best of circumstances, Meg’s #84 isn’t likely to remove sanding scratch with a PC. Besides the fact that Meg’s recommends it for rotary only (a PC won’t break it down correctly), it isn’t all that aggressive in the first place.



I you had a rotary, you probably wouldn’t need the #83 step, #84 by rotary then #80 by PC would likely do the job (or possibly two rounds of #80, one with the rotary, one with the PC). It depends on the paint.



Whatever you do, do a test spot first. You don't want to do the whole car before finding out it doesn't work.





PC.
 
I am going to be wetsanding by hand not with the PC



I could borrow a rotary but I am afraid of burning through the paint



Megs abrasive and LC pads
 
Dave Pickett said:
what?



look here,



A mini being resprayed.... - Detailing World



painted, wetsanded 2000 grit and cutback/polished with T cut, (guessing similar to 84) orange pad on PC at about 4, I really dont call that a disaster, perhaps you do???!!!!
Click to expand...





That also isnt a factory CC, big difference.



I also said "potential disaster", meaning it may or may not work. If it dont work what will he do?
 
Coupe said:
I wouldnt wetsand if all you have is a PC, potential disaster waiting to happen.
Click to expand...



I agree. If you still wanted to go through with it try to get some 3000 grit or even 4000. Good luck!
 
Coupe said:
That also isnt a factory CC, big difference.



I also said "potential disaster", meaning it may or may not work. If it dont work what will he do?
Click to expand...

He just resprayed it himself.



The problem I have with your process is that the PC might not be able to break down the 84. Others will probably chime in though.
 
I think the PC would cope, but would take longer and take a number of passes. Not an issue if you are working on your own car, but understand not cost effective on a customers car. The white paint on the roof was "hard" but the PC did manage, albeit it took a while........



We tried 2500, and 3000 unigrit, didnt really help much to be honest....



I think eurotrs is also painting at home "after laying down some base/clear...."
 
yes, it was painted at home, on my 98 integra, so its not like I am attacking a show car here



I only have to do the hood bumper and rear quarter



Dave, what did you used for compound?
 
I've removed wetsanding scratches with the PC/Cyclo/hand with 3M PI-III RC 05933, and that was on pretty hard Audi clear (OE clear adjacent to a repair), so it *can* be done. Took a while though.



I wouldn't go any more aggressive than 3K unless you find you need to, and I'd consider doing the final passes with the finer grit if that happens. I'd only use Meguiar's Unigrit/Nikken or maybe Mirka (sp?) paper as 3M leaves too many random deep gouges that might not come out with a PC.



Stop wetsanding a few strokes before you think you should ;) Better too few than too many.



The 3M PI-II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound is still available but I don't realy like its silica-based abrasives (kill you just like asbestos unless you wear the right mask). It will remove fine wetsanding marks, but people have had poor results using it to fix scratches from 3M brand paper. Hi-Temp EC might be a good choice but that's not really an OTC product so I guess the 3M is a good choice. If you can still find some 3M PI-III RC 05933 I'd use that instead but it'll take a little longer.



I'd find an autobody/paint supply place and get the 3M stuff and the Unigrit/Nikken/Mirka paper.



Heh heh, if a rotary makes you nervous, then I'd sure be leery of wetsanding, but hey, that's just me.



And as for what somebody else did on another car- that doesn't necessarily have *anything at all* to do with how somebody else will do on a different vehicle. Just way too many variables to extrapolate like that. You can't go by what other people do under different circumstances (that's for life in general too, not just detailing ;) ).
 
i dunno, when i first got my wife her trailblazer there were a few crappy touch up jobs, i sanded them down with 2k then 2500 then 3k and polished the two small areas out with pc ec and yellow spot pad, nothing left behind whatsoever, i would however be very afraid of that being my only tool for the job.i was very suprised the pc removed the scuffs completely.



and if youre afraid of burning through with a rotary i really don't think you should have the confidence in sanding to begin with. jmo
 
i've wetsanded and followed up with a PC. It takes a long time, but it can be done. A rotary would be more idea, especially if you have a large are to work with, but it's not impossible with the PC.
 
I used T cut which has been around in the UK for years, but there are better products now. used a 4" orange pad.......at about speed 4 or 5 to giv the PC plenty of time to work the compound....
 
I have used my PC to bring back a wetsanded finish to a brilliant shine......................Using 4" pads! 4" pads on speed 6 make quick work of it, it is like a cross between the PC and a rotary, the pad visually spins quickly and jiggles even with moderate pressure. 4" pads on a PC were one of the best things I discovered.
 
eurotrs said:
I could borrow a rotary but I am afraid of burning through the paint
Click to expand...



Sanding is much more difficult than rotary buffing. I'd practice with a rotary before sanding. Much easier on your clear too. :nervous2:
 
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