What to use after m100 with wool?

[solekeeper]

I'am currently sanding bodyshop clear (after 1 day of curing) with 2k grit, cutting it down with m100 and a wool pad then, HD adapt on a orange/white foam depending on the color of the vehicle.

I'am not interested in changing my first step, as it works well for me, and most importantly it doesn't create a ton of dust.


I was curious about menzerna polishes, how do they stack up against the HD adapt? what would you guys do?

 

[kenny.bacon]

Typically after I wool pad anything I just do a quick run over with the buffer again using minimal compound on a foam finishing pad and the same cutting compound I used with the wool pad. I'm talking take no more than like 5 mins on the whole car. The purpose of this is really just to make the swirl marks from the buffer less obnoxious to deal with. Then I take a foam cutting pad on a DA and DA the swirl marks out, Pull it out into the sun to see if there are any left, and then do the final rinse before the LSP. I always use the same compound throughout the steps until the LSP. That's just my fine tuned process. I've found that some steps are unnecessary and as long as the paint is smooth and there are no scratches of any kind then the job is done. Time to move onto your choice of LSP.

 

[wdmaccord]

Menzerna PF2500 on a polishing pad would probably work well. That's typically what I use when I am fixing paint that dealerships and carwash "detailers" have trashed (DISO, buffer trails, holograms, etc.), which might be comparable to what you are trying to do to get the paint to the next level of finish. Even on hard German paint this has worked for me. I did have one black Nissan Armada that I had to actually use FG400 with a light cutting pad...that paint was very hard for a Japanese vehicle.