What to remove buffer holograms with (by hand)?

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imported_rachelanne16

New member
I had a piece of a tree limb fall and dent my hood. The dent was small, but deep - paint was not broken. Took it to a shop with a great rep for body work. They said dent could not be pulled without a repaint. The dent removal and color match was excellent!



But in direct sunlight, there are buffer holograms all over the hood, as well as a few assorted swirl marks (sorry - no pics).



When I picked up the vehicle, they were still working on it and it was a little dusty from product. I think that they were using a medium-cut compound with a rotary, and maybe just didn't work it enough to really break down and finish polishing(?)



I intend to go back to the shop, but just out of curiosity ...



Would 1Z PP, or maybe 3M FCRC (39002), have a chance of removing this (by hand)? I have these available. I think the 1Z has wax in it, so I would have to wait a few weeks to do anything missed by the shop the second time around.



Thanks much.
 
I would take it back and let the shop make this right . 1ZPP should take them out , by hand may be pushing it but you can give it a try. Using a terry applicator will give you more of a cut then a foam applicator. Test an area to which works better , look out for micro marring the terry may leave behind.



Good luck :buffing:
 
Yeah, better wait on stuff containing wax like the PP.



I've removed holograms with PI-III RC and that's a bit milder than your PI-II. Depends how bad they are though.



FWIW, whenever I took a car back to the people who hologramed it, they were unable to fix it to my satisfaction. I, on the other hand, *have* been able to fix marring like this to my satisfaction, so I'd consider doing it yourself. If the shop knew what they were doing they wouldn't have messed it up in the first place, but see what they tell you. Did your check clear yet ;)
 
I can't understand why a bodyshop can do a great job repairing and painting and then screw up on the final buffing. This was my experience as well. Wonderful paint job but I got the car back with swirls and holograms. I took it back and they improved it somewhat but it wasn't nearly what I would like.



You'll need to let the paint cure but you can use a glaze and see if that improves things. I don't own a PC (yet) but found that an application of glaze and then once the paint was cured I applied Zaino Z5/Z2 Pro. Now the holograms and most of the swirls are gone. which indicates to me that the marring was pretty superficial. A good polishing with a PC would definitely make things right.



My advice is to start with the most gentle application and work your way up. Chances are the marring is superficial and can be corrected pretty easily.
 
FWIW, whenever I took a car back to the people who hologramed it, they were unable to fix it to my satisfaction.
Click to expand...

I think that may be the case here, as well. But I am going to get them to at least get it (by machine) to the stage where I can finish it out (by hand).



The owner confessed that the "detail guy" had not been there on the afternoon I picked the vehicle up, but was very encouraging about correcting the errors. I think they got a little behind on a Fri. afternoon and started rushing. I'm a little peeved about having to go back, but they seem to want to make it right.



From some angles/lighting conditions, it looks moderate-to-severe, but other times, it is difficult to notice, so I think they should be able to correct it. I am going back, late tomorrow.



In 6 weeks, I hope to use 1Z PP if/where needed, then AIO, SG x 2.



Thanks much for the replies.
 
(followup)



Well, I took it back, this morning. They had two guys going over it; some kind of body shop medium-cut RC by rotary, a 3M P-III product by rotary, Megs Speed Glaze by PC, and "Wow" (a body shop QD) by hand.



They were very concerned about making it right and spent close to an hour on it. It looks a 100% better, the holograms and hazing are now gone, but ... there are quite a few swirl marks on the hood.



My question is this; If I am working by hand, should I go ahead and remove them now, while the paint is still a little softer, or wait until 6 weeks is up, so there is less chance of marring the paint myself?



What would be good to use? Would 3M PI-III RC be too aggressive on new paint? What is similar to 1Z PP, without the wax?



Thanks!
 
I hope the #80 didn't just hide some remaining holograms.



Wonder which PI-III stuff they used, there are a bunch of them.



I dunno about it still having swirl marks after a medium cut compound *and* the PI-III stuff, both by rotary. Those should've removed *every* flaw like that, let alone on new paint. And after the #80 it should be *literally* flawless (been there, done that, and I didn't need a medium compound either ;) ).



I dunno if I'd do it now or wait. I'd *probably* wait, that fresh paint is getting an awful lot of work already.



IMO the 3M PI-III RC (05933) is too much, I'd stick with PI-III MG (05937) which is a little milder than the 1Z PP (and PI-III MG does not contain wax). I've had to use *very* mild products on fresh paint to remove minor marring, even #80 and the 05937 were too aggressive on some RM b/c paint I had sprayed last year. I had to use some Griot's Machine Polish #3 on that one.
 
Yeah, after all of that work, with some fairly aggressive methods, you'd think, "swirl-free." I wonder if some of the pads were gritty. Now that I think about it, the pc foam pad for the speed glaze was new, but some of the rotary pads looked like they had been used a lot.



The body work came out excellent! The paint-matching came out great. But the final finishing was just way below Autopian standards.



I am going to wait about 6 weeks and try some PI-III MG (05937) on it. Thanks much for the recommendations!
 
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