what to buy

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HighFidelity

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i got the 7336sp at lowes. now im looking at the pads on the excel website. they have some good bundles there. now i need help finding the polishes. i have a white pearl car and i read EX-P is nice for that particular paint. My car being 10 years old has a decent amount of swirl although its hard to tell in white paint. now to a few questions.



1. Im thinking about starting with SSR2.5 and working from there. Should i then use SSR2 and then SSR1....or should i use something like Klasse AIO instead of the SSR1?



2. do most of you polish with 4" or 7" pads?



3. do most of u apply the sealant/wax with the machine or is it better by hand?
 
1.) SSR2.5 would be a good start. If you work it properly, letting it break down as you work it on the paint, it should produce a haze free surface, and you shouldn't need to use another polish after. If you do, I'd use SSR1. Klasse AIO is just a cleaner polish, and won't be of any use to you after you've already polished, unless you're planning on laying down acrylic sealants and need a good base.



2.) The larger pads are what we usually use, just 4" pads for hard to reach areas (I usually don't use them personally)



3.) You can do either one. I prefer to do it by hand, because I can usually do it just as fast by hand as with a machine, and I find it to be easier and more relaxing to do by hand.
 
thanks that helps a lot. I guess i'll buy the AIO next time when i dont have to do abrasive polishing. what about claying, should i still clay or would that process be unnecessary with the SSR2.5.
 
HomicidalSloth said:
1.) SSR2.5 would be a good start. If you work it properly, letting it break down as you work it on the paint, it should produce a haze free surface, and you shouldn't need to use another polish after. If you do, I'd use SSR1.
Click to expand...



SSR2.5 left me a very visible haze in my nighthawk black Civic, but SSR1 got things in place. :)



Mabye SSR2 doesn´t leave that haze I got...
 
scottabir said:
did you work it long enough NeReTe?
Click to expand...



Yes, I think it was done properly... now I´m at university, when I get home I´ll post a few pics I have, where you can see it perfectly ;)
 
me again. I figure i will be using this process:



WASH

CLAY

SSR2.5

EX-P - 2 coats

Collinite 845



I'm now unsure what strength of propel pad to use for the SSR2.5, Is green the standard or yellow? Also, if i get some hazing should I try the SSR1 with a blue pad?
 
I found that for swirls on a never polished before car, I needed the yellow pad. The green was too mild. You could try it with green first and if it doesn't work, go to yellow. Remember to work SSR2.5 thoroughly. It takes quite a while to get it to break down by PC.
 
I do all my polishing with 4" pads. you can apply more pressure to the smaller pads and still retain the dual action motion. This helps remove defects faster IMO. I also apply all my sealants and liquid waxes by hand. pastes i use a foam applicator by hand. For a really bad finish, I'd bump up to a yellow pad w/ 2.5 and then follow up with ssr1 on a blue/green pad to remove the hazing.
 
I find that it's more of a pain in the rear end to apply pastes by hand. You have to sit there and pop the paste out of the container, apply it, etc etc etc. Besides, I feel more of a connection with the finish when applying that final LSP coat by hand :D
 
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