what products to use?

S

smfrycruzr

New member
I just bought a 2001 Chrysler LHS in Maroon Pearl paint and am getting a 7336 tomorrow at Lowe's (10% coupon rules) and want to detail it tomorrow as the day should be cool and clear. The car has some holograms from a bad rotary job at the dealership and a few clearcoat scratches (not deep) but hardly any swirls. My products that I have follow... What ones in what order and what speed setting should I use?

Duragloss 111 Clear Coat Polish

EO WET P&W

EO Nanowax

3M SMR Dark

3M IHG

Mother's CCW

Megs DCS 1&3

Nu Finish



I prefer to use products I already have so I can do it tomorrow. I was thinking the Megs 1, then 3M SMR, then either Nanowax or DuraGloss or Megs 3...



Thanks guys in advance!!!
 
I'm afraid I'm not familiar with most of those products, but I *believe* most of them are non-abrasive, and you'll need abrasives for what you want to do. The 3M SMR will hide stuff, but it won't remove very much. The IHG *is* nonabrasive, so that one's definitely not what you need. I'm pretty sure the Deep Crystal stuff is nonabrasive too.



Determine your most abrasive product and use that (probably the DuraGloss). But honestly, I'd say you're gonna need different products, ones with some varying degrees of "cut" to them.



I do almost all my PC polishing at "6" but many only go as high as 4-5.
 
I agree, you are definitely going to need some more abrasive products in your arsenal. The SMR will probably hide a good bit of what you are describing but it will end up coming right back after a while. I would say you need a good compound for starters but I don't even think you have a good enough polish to bring back the gloss after the compound. Most of what you have are finishing products or maintenance producst at best.
 
Exactly what JDookie says :xyxthumbs



With the use of SMRs and defintiely glaze, there's always the potential for disappointment when their filling capabilties diminish and the defects they did not remove "reappear". I couldn't agree more strongly with the others, a well rounded assortment of polishes of different strengths is the best way to go. The proper product, technique and machine will eliminate any defects and enable your paint to truly looks its best.
 
I got my PC today and right now only the stock pad...used some Mother's CW on the hood just to try the new machine...LOVE IT!!! Amazingly fast and easy to use and I know if I had the proper polish she'd be a stunning paint job! SO now my question is what polish should I pick up? Locally I can get Duragloss, Meg's PRO line,3M, and Wizard's stuff easily along with any normal consumer stuff. Maybe #2? How about a 3M product?
 
I'd go with the 3M myself. The PI-III RC (05933) is good for sorta-serious marring like "swirls" and light scratches. The PI-III MG (05937) is good for milder problems and as a follow-up to the RC. Between those two and a good LSP, you should be pretty well set once you get some more pads for the new PC.
 
Meg's #83 (DACP) and 3M PI III RC are almost identical products, just so you don't get confused. I know Accumulator and I both like the 3M product but then again, I haven't had the opportunity to compare it to #83 yet. I figure what isn't broken doesn't need to be fixed. I've made some tremendous transformations with the 3M RC. Another product I haven't tried yet, but will go great behind the 3M RC is 3M PI MG. We have been discussing the product quite heavily lately and have to come to the conclusion that it's very close to the 1Z PP and MP products, which aren't available locally so that might be an option for you.



On another note, I'm not sure about this but I don't think you would want to go nuts with the factory pad on the PC. I remember everyone saying to never use it for some reason and I pulled mine off immediately and put it right back in the box, so you might want to wait to do the rest of your car for when your better backing plate and pads come in. Someone with first hand experience with the stock white pad may want to chime in here.
 
if i go with the 3M RC should i follow it with IHG or SMR or my CCP111 before a topper or just use the RC or 83 and then go with my coat of EO Nano? I know i can get Megs pads locally and backers too...I'll keep in mind ditching that stocker but I don't see what is really wrong with it. Someone tell me please.
 
I'm not sure what was wrong with the stock pad, but I'm sure someone will tell us. I DO know that it is a polishing pad and if you want to really get an awesome finish you are going to need a cutting pad with the 3M RC and DACP, and you will need to follow behind them with a less aggressive polish and a polishing pad. I haven't used the products you mentioned so I can't pick one but you should be able to buy the 3M PI MG from the same place you buy the RC from, and it will follow up well behind the DACP if you choose that route too.



This is my opinion, but I don't like SMR's. All they do is hide the problems by filling them in and they will just end up coming back after a while. You can keep it around if you just don't have the time to compound the problems out, but I find it just as much as work to patch it as you would have spent actually fixing it with the right products.
 
JDookie said:


On another note, I'm not sure about this but I don't think you would want to go nuts with the factory pad on the PC. I remember everyone saying to never use it for some reason and I pulled mine off immediately and put it right back in the box, so you might want to wait to do the rest of your car for when your better backing plate and pads come in. Someone with first hand experience with the stock white pad may want to chime in here.
Click to expand...



Excellent point Jason. Most folks recommend using the factory pad only as the backing for a bonnet. Mine fell apart when using it with Poorboy's SSR 2.5. I needed a polishing pad for 2.5 before moving to my cutting pad. If you happen to have an old beater car you can practice on or a practice fender, I can see using the factory pad to practice with to get used to the PC. I would not recommend using it on your daily driver, much less a garage queen.



My factory pad appeared to be in bad shape when it was new and I really should have known better than to use it. :o Two friends that bought PCs recently had the same problem; we bought from three different vendors which may indicate a larger problem.
 
Todd,

Good to see you ;)



Well, there you go. I knew there was a reason why nobody like the stock pad. What you have to realize is that pad was probably intended for flat metal polishing, not automobile polishing which is full of contours that beat the heck out of a pad.
 
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