What products to use for Mercedes C250 machine polishing
- Thread starter cheekyage
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
cheekyage- I don`t know from modern Benzes, maybe somebody here will chime in. But generally it`s just like any other basecoat/clearcoat paint in that you use the mildest approach that will get the job done satisfactorily in a reasonable amount of time.
What kind of polisher will you be using?
As for the LSP, that comes down to choices:
-Conventional LSP or coating?
-Looks or durability?
IMO most people with black cars would do fine with either 476S or 915 from Collinite.
My concerns always lean towards "how will you prevent it from getting marred up again?" You can only correct clearcoat so many times and it`s fewer than many might think.
What kind of polisher will you be using?
As for the LSP, that comes down to choices:
-Conventional LSP or coating?
-Looks or durability?
IMO most people with black cars would do fine with either 476S or 915 from Collinite.
My concerns always lean towards "how will you prevent it from getting marred up again?" You can only correct clearcoat so many times and it`s fewer than many might think.
Raymoche
New member
Check the paint code, check if it has "ceramicoat" paint.. I think there is a letter C designated at the beginning of the paint code.
If it doesn`t have ceramiclear, ceramicoat or whatever, you can proceed as usual as with any car...
If it does have the Cerami stuff, then do a very small test spot, starting with your least aggressive polish, if it works, use it, if it doesn`t more up in aggressiveness in very small increments (changing a pad, same polish, or changing polish, same pad, etc...)... also it would help to have a PTG to check if any previous polishing/repainting has been done... apparently this ceramiclear stuff is just 0.2mil, and once thats gone its some super soft clear and it finishes a little differently.
I haven`t polished any mercedes yet (even though there are a few available for me to work on), so I can`t say I am speaking from experience, just what I gather with a bit of googling for future reference.
Good luck.
If it doesn`t have ceramiclear, ceramicoat or whatever, you can proceed as usual as with any car...
If it does have the Cerami stuff, then do a very small test spot, starting with your least aggressive polish, if it works, use it, if it doesn`t more up in aggressiveness in very small increments (changing a pad, same polish, or changing polish, same pad, etc...)... also it would help to have a PTG to check if any previous polishing/repainting has been done... apparently this ceramiclear stuff is just 0.2mil, and once thats gone its some super soft clear and it finishes a little differently.
I haven`t polished any mercedes yet (even though there are a few available for me to work on), so I can`t say I am speaking from experience, just what I gather with a bit of googling for future reference.
Good luck.
Accumulator
Well-known member
That`s great info, I didn`t know about how thin the ceramiclear is.
I`ve inspected the car and the condition is quite decent, only has light and minimum swirls.
I`m thinking I could perhaps with a single stage plus LSP.
What would you guys recommend - should I go for an AIO or perhaps a polish using black pad plus LSP?
Thank you again.
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I`m thinking I could perhaps with a single stage plus LSP.
What would you guys recommend - should I go for an AIO or perhaps a polish using black pad plus LSP?
Thank you again.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Accumulator
Well-known member
cheekyage- at the risk of sounding like some doom-and-gloom pessimist, I`m betting that it`ll need more aggressive efforts than you`d expect. I like some "AIOs with a bit of cut", but I don`t expect them to actually do any correction as they never have for me (not even on clear/paint a lot softer than yours). It`d be easy to spend many hours on this and end up with shinier paint that is still every bit as marred-up as it is now. If that`s OK, then OK. But if not, plan on doing a genuine, two-step + LSP (which is generally my version of "acceptable minimum on paint that has obvious, somewhat minor, flaws").
Mike lambert
New member
We do a lot of Mercedes, don`t let the whole ceramic thing get in your head. If it has been polished at the dealer it already has been abused. We are strictly Griots polishes and pads. Fast cut on a micro pad and then perfecting cream. Finish with whatever you like.
NLove
New member
I have a 2014 white E350 no ceramiclear (I believe the paint color I have is called Polar White). I have had good luck with polishing pads (LC White, Rupes Yellow, Griots Yellow) and SF4000\Rupes Keramik Gloss Fine Gel Polish\BOSS Perfecting Cream to remove light scratches and light marring. I purchased the car new and it came over by ship. It never spent any time on the lot so I didn`t have to deal with the the damage cause by snow brooms or dealership car washes.
The paint is on the harder side, I am just a weekend warrior so I don`t have the nearly the experience lots of members here have.
The paint is on the harder side, I am just a weekend warrior so I don`t have the nearly the experience lots of members here have.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Maybe to the point where the hardest layers of the CeramiClear are gone, huh? Or so I`ve *heard* can be the case..
Huh, didn`t realize that...IMO that`s a strong point of reference that`s well worth noting.