What looks like rust spots on white paint

Tuck91

Tuck91

New member
All of the white cars I have detailed have those little rust spots on them, I can remove them with clay but it takes a long time.



Is there a better way to remove them?



Anyone else know what I am talking about?
 
One of its common names is Rail Dust. Yes you need to use a clay bar to take them off or the Hi Tech Body Sponge.



There are chemicals made for taking it off, but they are very nasty to work with.
 
Clay is not the best way to remove Fallout. As a matter of fact it's not an approved way per car and paint manufacturer guidelines It only shaves off the top portion and doesn't flush out the remaining stint. I suggest anyone wanting more information on this issue should read this following thread and pay close attention to banned member TLL. He's affiliated with Finish Kare; the creator of a decon wash system.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/35323-anyone-know-website-abc-products.html
 
I have been looking at the whole kit and my biggest concern was is it safe if it gets on a plastic panel or anything other than the painted surface. I didn't see the answer in the description.

I have been using clay and or rubbing compound on the spots each year after winter.

I am tempted to try this system.
 
David Fermani said:
Clay is not the best way to remove Fallout. As a matter of fact it's not an approved way per car and paint manufacturer guidelines It only shaves off the top portion and doesn't flush out the remaining stint. I suggest anyone wanting more information on this issue should read this following thread and pay close attention to banned member TLL. He's affiliated with Finish Kare; the creator of a decon wash system.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/35323-anyone-know-website-abc-products.html
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TLL got banned for being a rep for Finish Kare ? Are you sure clay won't do the job properly ? Not saying it will, just saying, those comments coming from a company rep could easily be viewed as biased.
 
WAS said:
TLL got banned for being a rep for Finish Kare ? Are you sure clay won't do the job properly ? Not saying it will, just saying, those comments coming from a company rep could easily be viewed as biased.
Click to expand...



I have clayed my spots and every year they come back after winter. The road salt must bring them out.
 
I clay the spots on my white and they usually reappear withing 6-8 monthes. I don't think clay is strong enough to take the particle out since it was inbedded into the clear.
 
I always thought it was paint contamination. All light colored cars I've ever done, has had them. So naturally I will assume all dark cars get it as well, but you just can't see it- due to a lack of contrast.



My car is white, and I notice that after I clay them- the only time it comes back is when I neglect to wach and care for the paint.
 
FordFan2009 said:
I clay the spots on my white and they usually reappear withing 6-8 monthes. I don't think clay is strong enough to take the particle out since it was inbedded into the clear.
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I use the High Tech Manga Sponge, on the two white cars in the family, they haven't come back after two years.



Of course it could be that they aren't coming back, but are new ones.
 
So has anyone have any experience using this Finish Kare system to remove the rust spots on white vehicles with success?
 
I know that it works. However, not everyone wants to use such a product, so

the rest of us use clay. It may not be the "best" option, but it works fine.
 
I use the AutoInt/ValuGard version of the acidic decontamination stuff. Works great for me. No problems using it on plastics/etc. but I try to keep it off of both:



-glass, just a case of being extra-cautious and I don't make a big deal out of this

-aluminum trim, lest it get through a microscopic flaw in the coating and cause clouding/etc.



IME the decontamination systems are very easy to use, even on larger vehicles, and they do a good job. In some cases I clay while the acid is dwelling, which makes for a more aggressive decontamination (but it does eat up the clay rather quickly).



Seriously, they sound a lot more potent than they are. I wish the acidic step was *stronger* than it is. But you should still wear gloves and, more importantly IMO, eye protection.



I can often get by with just a claying *IF* (big "if") the ferrous contamination is just stuck to/in my LSP. This isn't unusual with heavily layered KSG. But in most other cases my experience is that the decontamination effects a much closer to permanent fix. Not always necessary, but worth doing when it's called for.



FWIW, I do a full decon. on *every* new-to-me vehicle, from brand new cars in-the-wrapper to very used beaters. It makes for a nice, clean-slate starting point.
 
Accumulator said:
I use the AutoInt/ValuGard version of the acidic decontamination stuff. Works great for me. No problems using it on plastics/etc. but I try to keep it off of both:



-glass, just a case of being extra-cautious and I don't make a big deal out of this

-aluminum trim, lest it get through a microscopic flaw in the coating and cause clouding/etc.



IME the decontamination systems are very easy to use, even on larger vehicles, and they do a good job. In some cases I clay while the acid is dwelling, which makes for a more aggressive decontamination (but it does eat up the clay rather quickly).



Seriously, they sound a lot more potent than they are. I wish the acidic step was *stronger* than it is. But you should still wear gloves and, more importantly IMO, eye protection.



I can often get by with just a claying *IF* (big "if") the ferrous contamination is just stuck to/in my LSP. This isn't unusual with heavily layered KSG. But in most other cases my experience is that the decontamination effects a much closer to permanent fix. Not always necessary, but worth doing when it's called for.



FWIW, I do a full decon. on *every* new-to-me vehicle, from brand new cars in-the-wrapper to very used beaters. It makes for a nice, clean-slate starting point.
Click to expand...



Thanks. Kinda what I was expecting to hear. Only thing that had me thinking was what "if" it got on something it wasn't supposed to what would happen. Guess the usual precautions are necessary for trying anything new.
 
I took your recommendation Accum and went with the Valugard system.

Was trying to order and it kept screwing up the quantity I wanted. Had 16000 bottles at one point with the total being 950K:shocked



Ended up having to call and place the order and let them know their site was broke for ordering. And I got lucky by doing this.



They have a special that includes 1 gallon of each step, 2 bottles for mixing, 2 wash mitts all for $55.00. That is cheaper than than the website and more quantity of the wash. plus the extras.



Just figured I would give a heads up on the deal since you pointed me in that direction.

Thanks again and I'll report back once I do my brothers car.

:bigups
 
WAS said:
TLL got banned for being a rep for Finish Kare ? Are you sure clay won't do the job properly ? Not saying it will, just saying, those comments coming from a company rep could easily be viewed as biased.
Click to expand...



FordFan2009 said:
I clay the spots on my white and they usually reappear withing 6-8 monthes. I don't think clay is strong enough to take the particle out since it was inbedded into the clear.
Click to expand...



Regardless of who said this, it's the truth and is accurate based on what car manufacturers state (and pay for warranty paint repairs) as well as paint manufacturers. I'd love to see how the opposing side (clay manufacturers) would argue this? I hear Optimum is coming out with a decon system. Looking forward to that!



TLL said:
.



Clay type products will only remove the symtoms of industrial fallout. Only the tops of the contamination will be removed. The remainder of the contamination as well as the acidic compounds they generate will remain to continue causing damage..



The findings of clay and oxalic acid have been made and confirmed by the auto manufactures. They have gone on to specifically recommend not using clay type products or products containing oxalic acid.
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TLL said:
The Ford TSB, as an example, states that Clay does not remove the entire ferrous metal particle "OR" environmental contamination with acid compounds and acid rain being a member the contamination family.



If your goal is to remove contamination why would you only remove part of it. Its like pulling weeds from the ground. The root remains and continues to grow



From experience using both systems and from the expience of others that have used both systems The Decontamination system is a superior system. It corrects the symtoms of contamination which would be what you see and feel. But whats more it corrects what you can not see, The things that are causing the damage.
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rescuenut10 said:
More than likely its rail dust or industial fallout.
Click to expand...



Depends on the location of the contamination. If on top & horizontal surfaces, then yes, most likely fallout. If concentrated on vertical rear surfaces like a hatch or tail gate and around the rear area of wheel well openings then it is being caused by the steel from your brake rotors as they wear away. Rail dust and fallout do not show in this manner.
 
swan- I got a kick out of your ordering missteps :chuckle:



Glad to hear they still have that sale going.



Use everything the way the labels say and you should do fine. IF the "B" seems less than effective, try the clay while it's dwelling, but remember that the clay will go bad fast.



To some extent, how effective the system will be depends on how long the contamination has been on/in the vehicle's paint. Still, rest assured that you're going about it the right way.



Oh, and I'm not a big fan of the "C", not enough lubricity for my taste so I don't use it as a regular shampoo. But it's sure fine for wheels/wheelwells/etc. Cool green color, I will say that in its favor.
 
I must say that I agree with this thread.

BTW, we use the "C" product everyday as our routine carwash/shampoo.



Kudos to Accumulator for the use of the word 'lubricity'.



I had a route salesman the other day question whether that was even a word!

Actually, he questioned the word 'Lubricious' (Webster: Having a smooth or slippery quality; "the skin of cephalopods is thin and lubricious".)



So, boy, am I off topic!



JB
 
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