What light for under hood and interiors?
- Thread starter bcgreen
- Start date
There are SOOOOO many good LED trouble/work lights out there. Are you looking for one that will be used or turned "ON" for many hours, then a rechargeable or even a batter-powered one my not be your best choice and obviously a electrical-corded one is better suited to that.
How bright does it have to be? Does it need to be dimmable? How big does it have to be? (some small ones are pretty bright these days!) How often will you use it?; Daily? Weekly? How much money do you want to spend? Does it need to be more "robust" and rugged?
My suggestion? Go to Harbor Freights and look at what at they have.
Scangrip makes a nice Scangrip I-Match 2 that may suite your needs, but it is pricey. If you want something more "industrial", Mac Tools or Snap-On may suite that need, but like the adage goes, "You want to run with the Big Dogs, you gotta pay like the Big Dogs."
Me? I have a hand-held (3)-AA batter-powered CHEAP trouble light of about 200 lumens with a hooked flexible neck and magnetic base by Smart Electrician Model 83776 for $10.00 (Menards in the Midwest). Batteries last about 4 hours before it gets too dim. For a hobbyist who only needs this part-time and not for a long work time, its fine.
How bright does it have to be? Does it need to be dimmable? How big does it have to be? (some small ones are pretty bright these days!) How often will you use it?; Daily? Weekly? How much money do you want to spend? Does it need to be more "robust" and rugged?
My suggestion? Go to Harbor Freights and look at what at they have.
Scangrip makes a nice Scangrip I-Match 2 that may suite your needs, but it is pricey. If you want something more "industrial", Mac Tools or Snap-On may suite that need, but like the adage goes, "You want to run with the Big Dogs, you gotta pay like the Big Dogs."
Me? I have a hand-held (3)-AA batter-powered CHEAP trouble light of about 200 lumens with a hooked flexible neck and magnetic base by Smart Electrician Model 83776 for $10.00 (Menards in the Midwest). Batteries last about 4 hours before it gets too dim. For a hobbyist who only needs this part-time and not for a long work time, its fine.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Hmmm...I might oughta keep an eye on this thread, I find I need more/better lighting these days and while LEDs are sure an upgrade over old-tech, my rechargeables just keep dying in one way or another.
mobiledynamics
New member
Going into cordless, one is -investing- in a battery system - which then goes into the tool lineup that matches.
Love the Milwakuee on all fronts
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Lighting/Specialty-Lights/2125-21XC
I`m sure there are cheaper corded options out that but on a former box full of corded tools......the cordless has replaced me even touching my corded Metabo grinders, corded Hilti hammerdrills, etc. Cordless rules ...for the most part
Love the Milwakuee on all fronts
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Lighting/Specialty-Lights/2125-21XC
I`m sure there are cheaper corded options out that but on a former box full of corded tools......the cordless has replaced me even touching my corded Metabo grinders, corded Hilti hammerdrills, etc. Cordless rules ...for the most part
Coatings=crack
Active member
I got this and its been super useful. Also good for paint correction cri 95 colormatch. Sure theirs better but it’s been awesome for me
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wannafbody
wannafbody
You can decently bright LED work lights at WalMart for $20.
Accumulator
Well-known member
IME it`s the *switches* on cheaper lights that eventually becomes a problem. I`d expected it to be the batteries, that they`d quit taking/holding a charge, but nah..the switches get wonky, especially after the light gets wet numerous times (I probably end up using them to illuminate the undercarriages more than anything else).
Accumulator
Well-known member
Coatings=crack- How is that ARCLUSA for spotting *VERY* light issues such as holograms?
I don`t care about the CRI/color-matching accuracy as I`ve never found that to matter for swirl-spotting, but I *have* had lights I`d expected to be good for that (and that others thought were great) that didn`t show *ANYTHING* *for me* when I tried `em.
I don`t care about the CRI/color-matching accuracy as I`ve never found that to matter for swirl-spotting, but I *have* had lights I`d expected to be good for that (and that others thought were great) that didn`t show *ANYTHING* *for me* when I tried `em.
Coatings=crack
Active member
I don’t know if i’ve every encountered a hologram. It work well on finding light swirls tho. Other than maybe the gyeon light to find high spots for coatings i feel no need for a more expensive light. My plan was to try this or the Astro and if not happy with it then buy a scangrip.
This was only $35 when I bought it. So choice was easy. I think I’d go Astro for $60. More hand held
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Accumulator
Well-known member
Coatings=crack- Ah, good, thanks. I`ll have the Astros on my short-list should I decide to get serious about this.
If you`ve never encountered a hologram it sounds like there are no rotary-dummies in your area! Lucky you
I`ve always put off buying a ScanGrip if only because I`ve had people PM me (not wanting to get flamed by posting it publicly...which I find sad, but anyhow..) that they spent plenty for a certain ScanGrip only to find it unimpressive. At least two people said the earlier models (n/a these days) were infinitely better. (And of course, other people say the new ones work great..)
If you`ve never encountered a hologram it sounds like there are no rotary-dummies in your area! Lucky you
I`ve always put off buying a ScanGrip if only because I`ve had people PM me (not wanting to get flamed by posting it publicly...which I find sad, but anyhow..) that they spent plenty for a certain ScanGrip only to find it unimpressive. At least two people said the earlier models (n/a these days) were infinitely better. (And of course, other people say the new ones work great..)
Coatings=crack
Active member
Coatings=crack- Ah, good, thanks. I`ll have the Astros on my short-list should I decide to get serious about this.
If you`ve never encountered a hologram it sounds like there are no rotary-dummies in your area! Lucky you
I`ve always put off buying a ScanGrip if only because I`ve had people PM me (not wanting to get flamed by posting it publicly...which I find sad, but anyhow..) that they spent plenty for a certain ScanGrip only to find it unimpressive. At least two people said the earlier models (n/a these days) were infinitely better. (And of course, other people say the new ones work great..)
Oh no i’ve seen them but i only work on my and friends cars
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Accumulator
Well-known member
Coatings=crack- Ah, OK..copy that. You`re lucky you haven`t had to deal with them, for something so shallow and seemingly easy-peasy, well...not always!
mobiledynamics
New member
I don`t think the LED`s work as well as a old school bulb for that sorta application. Not that I`ve given much thought into the -science- of it all. I`ve got alot of lights. One of my Milwaukee Floodlights goes up to 3K Lumens. I still tend to grab my lower 800/1500Lumen Floodlight if given the same options.
Same principle when it comes to paint for me or maybe I`m just school school. I want a halogen source lower lumen source for that
Same principle when it comes to paint for me or maybe I`m just school school. I want a halogen source lower lumen source for that
Accumulator
Well-known member
mobiledynamics- I agree about not wanting Inspection Lighting to be too bright. Even a ceiling-mounted 60W incandescent can show stuff pretty much the same as those "gas station/parking lot lights at night".
The LEDs and the 3M SunGun are the only lights that I see holograms with, period (besides natural sunlight, and even that has to be at the right angle some times).
While I do find incandescents *GREAT* for spotting swirls, my halogens are OK for it too, especially when used in a dark environment/
Same ol` same ol`...Dark Environment Point-source Illumination for virtually all marring, just gotta use the right kind of that illumination to see holograms.
Just don`t try to see anything except texture/orange peel/broad prep flaws under fluorescents, although IME, on rare occasions they do work surprisingly well on white for some reason.
The LEDs and the 3M SunGun are the only lights that I see holograms with, period (besides natural sunlight, and even that has to be at the right angle some times).
While I do find incandescents *GREAT* for spotting swirls, my halogens are OK for it too, especially when used in a dark environment/
Same ol` same ol`...Dark Environment Point-source Illumination for virtually all marring, just gotta use the right kind of that illumination to see holograms.
Just don`t try to see anything except texture/orange peel/broad prep flaws under fluorescents, although IME, on rare occasions they do work surprisingly well on white for some reason.
mobiledynamics
New member
Old school (A19) for me works when . It`s all the casting of the light
Back on topic, you guys use/need a light for Interior work ? Can`t recall me ever needing a light for interior work
Back on topic, you guys use/need a light for Interior work ? Can`t recall me ever needing a light for interior work
Accumulator
Well-known member
mobiledynamics
New member
I guess I got more golden eyes than you.
For the interior cleaning, I`m pretty simple....vac and wipe. Wipe are mainly H20, except for the consoles (top and front) which get Cockpit.
Some extra love on the seat bolsters and doors with APC Or Plastic Cleaner.
I have a good mixture of attachements that does help me get into the nooks and crannies including a 20 inch `ish crevice nozzle that is also flexiable to some degree. Then a mini nozzle set that get`s downsized off the main vac nozzle as well.
Seriously never have used a extra light source ever for the interiors. I guess I`m the same guy who washes the wheels 1st --- in that other thread
For the interior cleaning, I`m pretty simple....vac and wipe. Wipe are mainly H20, except for the consoles (top and front) which get Cockpit.
Some extra love on the seat bolsters and doors with APC Or Plastic Cleaner.
I have a good mixture of attachements that does help me get into the nooks and crannies including a 20 inch `ish crevice nozzle that is also flexiable to some degree. Then a mini nozzle set that get`s downsized off the main vac nozzle as well.
Seriously never have used a extra light source ever for the interiors. I guess I`m the same guy who washes the wheels 1st --- in that other thread
Accumulator
Well-known member
Heh heh, that`s setting the bar awfully low! No question you do IMO
Yeah, all I usually do is an Interior QD and vacuum.
Same here, scads of attachments I`ve, uhm...accumulated.
Well, I don`t encourage people to look harder for issues they don`t know they have! Maybe your interiors never get as dirty/dusty as mine, bet that`s especially true with regard to my dog-haulers. Though I can`t see into vents very far or every area under the dashboard without shining a light either, just to name some other specific jobs. But that`s just me and I`m glad you don`t have to [mess] around with such stuff.
EDIT: Oh, and I do the tires/wheels/wells/undercarriage first too. Get those nastiest areas done first!
Coatings=crack
Active member
Accumulator
Well-known member
That`s what *I* would`ve thought, but no...there are a fair number of Autopians who prefer to do them later in the process. Hey, whatever works for ya...