What Is Your Favorite Aggressive Polish And Pad Combo?

glen22

glen22

GLEN22
I read alot of polishing threads but to date :what is your first step polish and pad you would go to when severe paint correction is needed?
 
The Poorboy's line would be my product of choice. They are easy to work with. One can work in sun or shade. I think it has a good working time. Does not stain trim. I think they work well with a PC. (Have not used a UDM) I also believe that they are reasonably priced. One could say the same for Menzerna products. All except the reasonably priced part. That is why Poorboy's has come to be my go to product.
 
glen22 said:
sorry:D good point... pc/udm :yay thanks
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I use the Lake Country Orange pad with SSR2.5 ...multiple passes might be needed, but a gradual improvement on a severly damaged surface is the way I would go rather than too aggressive combo like a yellow and SSR3 combination ....on the other hand, if you have nothing to lose, I have seen SSR3 with a Meguiar's red pad do some pretty impressive work on speed 6 of a pc :wow:
 
Because I'm using a rotary for about 80% of correction I'll limit my comment to when I was using the PC only. I've often times broken out the Hi Temp Extreme Cut and a yellow LC pad on speed 6 and it usually resulted in a pretty good cut down but left after marring in the form of haze. I've also used SSR 2.5 with similar results and it worked as well. Most times it depends on the paint type and conditions.
 
Since my detailing is limited to friends and family, I don't have too many severe problems to deal with.
A Meguiar's polishing pad with either Meg's #83, Poorboy's SSR2.5, Meg's #80, or Poorboy's SSR2 seem to take care of most of them. It definitely takes some time with a PC, but I don't really feel the need to learn the rotary. If I have something that I think needs a rotary, I'll just stop by my friends body shop and have him hit it. What takes me 20 minutes, he takes care of in 2 minutes.
Most of the time a polishing pad and Optimum Poli-Seal takes me up to where I'm ready for the LSP.

Charles
 
Mine is

PC.....
I use a orange cutting pad, its a local supplier that I get these from but they are Megs clones...then SSR 2.5...moving over the surface real slow.

Rotary

Edge cutting pad with either the SSR 2.5 or Presta SWR...the later is my go to for rotary
 
glen22 said:
I read alot of polishing threads but to date :what is your first step polish and pad you would go to when severe paint correction is needed?
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I see you only have a PC. If the paint is in severe condition as you say... you are in for a "long" day. :D

Anyhow, with a PC, I also like Steve's polishes. I have Meguiar's pads for my PC and they work fine. I'm sure the LC, and Edge pads will also work great.

You'll probably need to start with SSR3 and a cutting pad and work a small section several times. Step down in pad and polish aggressiveness as you see the need. Don't try and get everything out in one step.

To bad you don't have a rotary... I still don't hesitate to get out a wool cutting pad with some Meguiar's Heavy Cut, or Compund Cut cleaner compound when dealing with "really bad" paint. That combo always levels the paint quickly. It is also DANGEROUS! :D

After that, I would step down to a couple less aggressive polishes/pads in succession.

Then, I would finish up with Menzerna Final Polish on a finishing pad with the rotary on 1500-1600 RPM's.

Fortunately, I don't need to use such an aggressive approach only "once in a blue moon", as I only detail a few vehicles anymore.

Good luck with your PC... and make sure you eat your "Wheaties"! :rofl
 
I hear ya it can be work and only having one good arm and being in a wheelchair is a task in itself.:bigups That is why a rotary is out of the question.I only detail to stay busy and this summer I have done 15 cars at $100.00 a pop all word of mouth.One thing I have no knowledge of is using a wool pad and I probably wont bother trying.:lol2:Everything has come out very sweet but the vehicles I am doing have never had any polishing I would say 80% have no wax even.
 
3M super cut compound is a good polish .
I use the word polish, cause it stays wet, so you can work scratches and blemishes out .
Wool pads are for serious paint correction and best used with rotary. Cutting pads for medium correction. Polishing pads for minor flaws...
 
glen22 said:
I hear ya it can be work and only having one good arm and being in a wheelchair is a task in itself.:bigups That is why a rotary is out of the question.I only detail to stay busy and this summer I have done 15 cars at $100.00 a pop all word of mouth.One thing I have no knowledge of is using a wool pad and I probably wont bother trying.:lol2:Everything has come out very sweet but the vehicles I am doing have never had any polishing I would say 80% have no wax even.
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Well fair play to you, Glen. That's good work.

With PC, I like Sonus and Lake Country Pads, but I reckon my indispensable polish is the Menzerna range. Once you get used to using them, they are great to work with.

I mainly use a rotary with lambswool for cutting, but the PC gets a lot of use for finishing. Perhaps you could look into light rotaries? I'm sure some of the guys here can suggest ones that are available in your country.

Hope this helps somewhat.:bigups

Xilleration
 
glen22 said:
I read alot of polishing threads but to date :what is your first step polish and pad you would go to when severe paint correction is needed?
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My go to pad/polish combo for heavy correction (with the PC) is SSR3 & a cutting pad. If worked properly, it works great and will leave very little hazing.


a_02.jpg


Here are more shots:

Car Detailed - Toyota Highlander
 
blkyukon said:
My go to pad/polish combo for heavy correction (with the PC) is SSR3 & a cutting pad. If worked properly, it works great and will leave very little hazing.


a_02.jpg
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That's Friggin' Incredible! WOWZER! :bow

You say that's when you work the SSR3 "PROPERLY." How long do you work the SSR3?
 
blkyukon what cutting pad did you use?

Anyone, is the megs. maroon/red pad equivalent to LC yellow?

If LC white is a 5 and LC yellow is a 10 where would LC orange lie?

I have been using a LC orange pad with DACP and I can't seem to get 100% of the scratches out of my 2002 Protege5. I've used 2 bucket wash method since I bought the car in 2002 and I don't have swirls just these tiny 2-3cm scratches that are all over and can never get them all out.
 
C_Rock77 said:
That's Friggin' Incredible! WOWZER! :bow

You say that's when you work the SSR3 "PROPERLY." How long do you work the SSR3?
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Thanks!

I can't give you a time on how long to work it because it will vary....but work SSR3 until it get to that "translucent" stage.

The tips I can give you is don't prime the pad with water or QD. I found that priming can cause excessive hazing. Also change or clean pad often. A cake pad will also lead to excessive hazing.


Here is a close up after SSR3 and a cutting pad - you can see the minimal amount of hazing that was left even with this aggressive combo:

ssr3_haze.jpg



The pic below shows on the left SSR3 not worked in properly:

hazing_sidebyside.jpg


I also have some videos showing SSR3 in action:

Car Detailing - How to Detail your Car Videos
 
SNike05 said:
blkyukon what cutting pad did you use?
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I used a LC yellow pad.

Anyone, is the megs. maroon/red pad equivalent to LC yellow?
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Yes.

If LC white is a 5 and LC yellow is a 10 where would LC orange lie?
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I'd say about a 7.

I have been using a LC orange pad with DACP and I can't seem to get 100% of the scratches out of my 2002 Protege5. I've used 2 bucket wash method since I bought the car in 2002 and I don't have swirls just these tiny 2-3cm scratches that are all over and can never get them all out.
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If they are RIDS I'd recommend using a 4" orange pad with the DACP and work on the areas in question. The 4" pad is a bit more aggressive and might be able to remove or minimize them better.

Remember though, sometimes it's just not worth the clear to remove everything...
 
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